Subscribe to this
Rose Levy Beranbaum’s 100% Whole Wheat Epiphany Loaf
first published in the April 2005 issue of Food Arts Magazine
It is a common misconception, which I have shared until very recently, that 100% whole wheat bread is by its very nature dense and bitter. On a trip to the Bay Area, while researching the story in this issue on the Bay Area bakeries, I was invited to an unusual bakery in Oakland: Vital Vittles, which specializes in kosher, organic, 100% whole wheat bread. They didn’t tell me why they had invited me until I tasted the bread and then Kass, the owner, admitted that it was to disprove what she had heard me say about whole wheat on the radio a year before when on tour for “The Bread Bible.”
To my amazement, the bread made with 100% whole wheat had the aroma of a new-mown lawn combined with freshly cut hay. Kass explained that the bitterness I had experienced was due to rancidity. It was absent in her bread because she used wheat berries ground the same day as baking the bread. A wheat berry can be decades old and if stored properly, will still be viable, the fats in the germ protected from oxidation by the bran, its outer coating. The moment the wheat berry is broken or ground, oxidation starts to take place. Most millers agree that once ground, the flour should be used within 3 days or held for 3 weeks due to certain enzymes that would render it undesirable for bread baking. Three months is the limit for shelf life of the whole wheat flour unless frozen. But for the best flavor, it is ideal to use it the day it is ground.
I immediately asked Kass for a few pounds of wheat berries and the day I returned home I started grinding and developing a recipe for 100% whole wheat bread. I discovered that the secret to lightness of the crumb was not only the freshness of the flour but also not allowing the dough to double during rising which tears the more fragile gluten. The result: This soft, moist, slightly chewy, crunchy with walnuts loaf that captures the true nutty-sweet multi-dimensional wheaty flavor of the grain.
Note: The average bread made with refined flour has about 66 percent hydration. This bread has almost 88 percent hydration due to the very absorbant bran. It is preferable to weigh the flour as no two flour mills grind the same, which would impact the volume significantly.
100% Whole Wheat Bread Walnut Loaf
Oven Temperature: 450°F., then 400°F
Dough Starter (Sponge): 1-4 hours or overnight
Minimum Rising Time: About 2 1/2 hours
Baking Time: 45 to 50 minutes
Makes: An 8 inch by 4 1/2 inch by 4 1/4 inch high free form loaf
2 lbs, 1.7 ounces/956 grams without nuts; 2lbs., 6 ounces/ 1078 grams
INGREDIENTS |
MEASUREMENTS |
WEIGHT |
|
|
volume |
ounces |
grams |
| water, room temperature (70 to 90°F.) | about 1 3/4 liquid cups | 15 ounces | 428 grams |
| honey | 1 1/2 tablespoons | ||
| freshly ground bread flour (red winter wheat berries) | about 3 1/2 cups | 16.5 ounces | 466 grams |
| vital wheat gluten | 2 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons | 1 scant ounce | 24 grams |
| walnut oil, pumpkin seed oil, or vegetable oil | 1/3 liquid cup | 2.5 ounces | 72 grams |
| instant yeast | 1 teaspoon | 3.3 grams | |
| salt | 1 3/4 scant teaspoons | ||
| walnuts, lightly toasted, loose skins removed, and chopped coarse | 1 1/2 cups | 6 ounces | 170 grams |
Equipment: An 8 1/2 inch by 4 1/2 inch loaf pan, greased lightly with cooking spray or oil. A baking stone or baking sheet.
1) Make the Sponge
In a mixer bowl, place the water, honey, about 2 cups (10 ounces / 286 grams) flour, and 1/2 teaspoon of the yeast. Whisk about 3 minutes until very smooth.
In a second bowl, whisk together the remaining flour, vital gluten, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon of yeast. Sprinkle it over the mixture in the first bowl, forming a blanket of flour. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and allow to sit for at least 1 up to 4 hours. The sponge will break through the flour blanket in places after about 1 1/2 hours.
2) Mix the dough
With the dough hook mix on low speed (#2 Kitchen Aid) about 1 minute, until the flour is moistened to form a rough dough. Scrape down any bits of dough. Cover the top of the bowl with plastic wrap and allow the dough to rest for 20 minutes. Add the oil and knead the dough on low speed (#2 Kitchen Aid) for 7 minutes, adding the salt after the oil is mixed in. If adding the walnuts, continue kneading 3 minutes.
The dough will not be elastic at this point and will not form a ball. It should be sticky enough to cling to your fingers. If it is not at all sticky spray it with a little water and knead it.
3) Let the dough rise
Place the dough into a 2 quart dough rising container or bowl (3 quarts if adding the walnuts), greased lightly with cooking spray or oil. Press down the dough and lightly spray or oil the top of the dough. Cover the container with a lid, plastic wrap or a damp towel. With a piece of tape, mark where 1 1/2 times the height would be. Allow the dough to rise (ideally at 75°F to 80°F) until 1 1/2 times (no more or it will tear the gluten and result in a dense crumb), about 1 hour.
Using an oiled spatula or dough scraper, remove the dough to a floured counter and flour the top. Press down on it gently to form a rectangle. It will now be quite elastic and still very sticky. Give it 1 business letter turn, round the edges and return it to the bowl.Again, oil the surface, cover, mark where 1 1/2 times the height will now be and allow it to rise until it reaches that point, about 45 minutes (Or refrigerate it overnight and bring it to room temperature for 1 hour before proceeding.)
4) Shape the dough and let it rise
Turn the dough onto a lightly floured counter and press down on it gently to flatten it slightly. It will still be a little sticky but use only as much flour as absolutely necessary. Shape it into a loaf and place in the prepared loaf pan. It will fill the pan to the top. Place it in the proof box or cover it lightly with oiled plastic wrap and allow it to rise until the highest point is about 1 1/2 inches (2 inches if walnuts) above the sides of the pan, and when pressed gently with a finger the depression very slowly fills in—about 45 minutes.
5) Preheat the oven
1 hour before baking time preheat the oven to 450F.
6) Bake the bread
Quickly but gently set the baking sheet on the hot stone or hot baking sheet and toss 1/2 cup of ice cubes into the pan beneath. Immediately shut the door and lower the temperature to 400°F. Continue baking 45 to 50 minutes or until the bread is golden brown and a skewer inserted in the middle comes out clean. (An instant read thermometer inserted into the center will read about 200°F. Half way through baking, rotate the pan half way around for even baking.
7) Cool the bread
Remove the bread from the oven, unmold it from the pan, and transfer to a wire rack to cool completely, top-side up.
8) Serve
Wonderful as tea sandwiches with cultured butter, yogurt cheese, bleu-veined cheese and apple slices.
The Dough Percentage
flour: 100%
water: 87.7%
yeast: 0.67%
salt: 2%
Send to a Friend
Print
Post/Read Comments
Digg
de.licio.us
Facebook
StumbleUpon
Comments
thanks julie, u r my favorite friend! YES, tortellini by the hundreds is a great group activity.
Reply to this Posted by: Hector | April 3, 2009 2:18 PM #
That's a beautiful loaf of bread, Hector! And I love the photo of all those completed tortellini, that must have taken some time!
Reply to this Posted by: Julie | April 3, 2009 6:01 AM #
i've just found these pictures, circa 2004. Cracked Wheat Loaf, Bread Bible page 289. hope you enjoy, this was new year's eve, plus tortellini, also a candid photo of mary's wedding cake.
http://www.hectorwong.com/roselevy/CrackedWheatLoaf.html
Reply to this Posted by: Hector | April 3, 2009 3:19 AM #
Guen, I haven't baked this bread (yet!) but I can attest to the fabulousness of Walnut oil for baking. I have two cans of La Tourangelle walnut oil sitting in my 'fridge right now, it is delicious stuff. I don't even like walnuts very much, but this adds a very earthy, smoky, nutty flavor that is addictive. I use it in pumpkin cake, chiffon cake, dribbled on ciabatta with dark chocolate chunks, and stirred into non fat greek yogurt.
Reply to this Posted by: Julie | November 18, 2008 9:38 AM #
You can buy dough enhancer at www.pleasanthillgrain.com.
Reply to this Posted by: sherry | November 17, 2008 6:07 PM #
I just tried this bread and liked it very much. Loved the crust in particular.
A couple of questions for anyone else who has made it:
1) How dense should the finished bread be? I'm curious if mine was too dense. I have not made bread from scratch before, so I'm a neophyte.
2) Also, does the walnut oil make a very big taste difference? I did mine with a more common oil [but included the walnuts], but am wondering if I should make the effort to find the walnut oil for next time.
Reply to this Posted by: Guen | November 15, 2008 10:37 PM #
Aunt Jemima probably tastes as it always did. I don't taste it as I always did. I had been using Washington brand mix (local to this area). It contains corn meal. I don't have an ingredients list, but I recall that it had rye flour.
So I've been working up the recipe. Washington says use their self-rising flour, which is not as strong, so I got a bag. I'm using buckwheat pancake mix, so I don't have to add baking powder to that, but the rye and cornmeal need some baking powder. So I mix in some baking powder. And I add buttermilk powder to make it buttermilk pancakes.
Reply to this Posted by: David Chessler | October 25, 2008 5:23 PM #
that's funny, Aunt Jemima was what I grew up on too! haven't tried it for years but maybe they changed their formula.
yes, commercial wholewheat bread is rarely 100% and for a good reason! most people (including me) prefer the texture of wholewheat bread when it is lightened will some percentage of white wheat flour.
the only 100% wholewheat flour bread i love is posted on this blog--it's the one with the walnuts and walnut oil.
Reply to this Posted by: Rose Levy Beranbaum | October 25, 2008 4:31 PM #
Commercial "whole wheat" bread usually contains a lot of white flour--usually more than 50%.
Right now I'm working an a pancake recipe, and using white flour (about a cup), plus a couple of teaspoons each of whole rye flour and buckwheat flour, plus about a quarter cup of yellow cornmeal.
What happened is my favorite pancake flour went off the market. They posted some information on their website, but it didn't quite have as much taste. And when I tried Aunt Jemima, which my mother had used when I was a kid--flavorless.
Another couple of weeks and I'll be sure enough of the proportions to post it.
Reply to this Posted by: David Chessler | October 25, 2008 4:07 PM #
i suspect there are many things other than gluten and dough enhancer in commercial 100% wholewheat breads--check the label.
i believe dough enhancers contain vita wheat gluten and a tiny bit of ascorbic acid plus probably some milk powder. also if you use some unrefreshed sourdough starter it helps strengthen the structure as well as giving it longer shelf life.
Reply to this Posted by: Rose Levy Beranbaum | October 25, 2008 2:45 PM #
I bought a mill to grind my own wheat for bread. Since using gluten as an additive to the 100% whole wheat bread the loaves rise but not to the degree I think they should. Cutting into the loaf each slice is about the size of 1/2 a slice of store bought bread and very dense. I have been told I need dough enhancer which should help lighten the dough and help with the rising problem. What could that dough enhancer be? And where do I get it. Any other suggestions would be helpful. Thanks, Denise
Reply to this Posted by: Denise Zitzmann | October 25, 2008 9:57 AM #
I have made whole wheat breads from whole-wheat sourdough. In the past I would keep a wheat sourdough. Now I just use some of my regular white sourdough and put it in a separate container. Then I refresh very heavily with whole wheat. I allow it to ferment a couple of days, discard 3/4 and refresh again with whole wheat. This gives a whole wheat sourdough.
I usually make and refresh my sourdoughs with 5 oz of flour and 5 1/3 oz (2/3 cup) of water, and I consider 9 oz to be a cup of sourdough. (I know this doesn't quite work out theoretically, but if you assume a bit of wastage, and occasionally refresh with a bit less than 5 oz of flour, things work out. There are less than 5 oz of flour in a cup, depending on the type, but this works for me.)
A 100% sourdough loaf (no commercial yeast) will rise more slowly than a loaf with part-sourdough and part-poolish (sponge with commercial yeast) or part commercial yeast. But it should rise, if your sourdough starter is fresh. If you have any doubt, refresh it a couple of times, which will wake it up.
Also, whole wheat flour tends to become rancid in storage. If you can't get really fresh-ground whole wheat flour, then you may not be able to duplicate the bread.
Other ways of perking up lazy starter include a bit of rye flour, a bit of malted barley flour (or barley malt syrup or barley malt powder), a bit of honey. Generally a tablespoon of the flours or a teaspoon of the syrups to a 1 1/2 lb loaf (flour weight), whould be enough. And a pinch of vitamin C powder will help. The actual weight of Vit C. needed is so small that it's impractical to weigh in home-sized quantities, so a pinch will do.
Also, some whole wheat flours, especially coarse ground, don't develop strong gluten. Sometimes you have to add a bit of powdered wheat gluten from the box.
Reply to this Posted by: David Chessler | May 29, 2008 8:12 PM #
Alexis, Peter Reinhart has already done the work for you. There is a recipe exactly like what you describe in his new book, although I haven't tried it yet. Apparently he has served it at James Beard dinners (I hope I remembered that correctly). I'm pretty sure it isn't a sponge--I think it is a biga and a mixture he calls epoxy--but it might be starter too, I forget now.
Reply to this Posted by: Matthew | May 29, 2008 3:26 PM #
I found the most wonderful bread at my neighborhood bakery. It's made from 100% fresh ground whole wheat flour and a grain mixture with sunflower seeds, millet, flax, barley, oat bran, pecans, and almonds. I'm on a mission to recreate it.
I thought a good first stab might be to follow the basic proportions and procedure in your "Tyrolean Ten-Grain Torpedo", but substitute the seed mixture from the ingredient list. I'm not sure how to make it whole-wheat, though. On my first attempt, the sponge didn't rise... at all.
Any suggestions, about the earth-bound qualities of my sponge, or in general? (Wouldn't I feel foolish if the problem, in fact, was that I forgot the yeast...)
Reply to this Posted by: Alexis | May 29, 2008 2:31 PM #
I'm not sure what I was thinking, but I made this loaf using the vital wheat gluten.
Go figure, but I had a hard time finding it, and so I've made many, many attempts at whole wheat loaves minus the VWG. Honestly, sometimes it worked (rose up, a little lighter than normal), sometimes it totally didn't work (hard, or dense like a brick). The differences came when I varied the amounts, etc....
But...the VWG is like MAGIC! No more hassle! I should have listened to Rose from the beginning.
Plus, now I can off and make those other breads that I've been avoiding because I haven't had the VWG. I'm NEVER going back!
Reply to this Posted by: Scott | March 16, 2008 3:56 PM #
yes exactly--and i don't use the bread machine to bake.
Reply to this Posted by: rose levy beranbaum | March 14, 2008 6:46 AM #
Thanks so much for your quick reply...
I cant tell you how thankful I am for all your books.. I love them all...
I read what you wrote in "Bread Bible" pg.46-48 about the use of a bread machine as a mixer (I assume for this recipe one would create the starter by hand, and let it ferment and then add to the machine).. would you bake it in the machine as well, I read the in the manual that the bread is baked at about 250-290 F.. while the recipe calls for a 450/400 F temp.. please advise.. a lost lil' baker.
Reply to this Posted by: Robert Charles | March 13, 2008 11:43 PM #
i've never made this bread in the bread machine but i'm confident it would work just like others that i do make in it. i give detailed instruction in my book "the bread bible."
Reply to this Posted by: rose levy beranbaum | March 13, 2008 12:41 PM #
I'm a Personal Trainer. Getting my clients to eat right is always tough. Most whole wheat breads out there are loaded with high fructose syrup and loads of sugar.
Sure it would be great to have folks bake their own bread, but seriously most don't have the time.
I was wondering how to convert this formula for a Zo bread machine. That would be amazing.. please please help!
Reply to this Posted by: Robert Charles | March 13, 2008 11:58 AM #
it won't form a ball bc it is very well hydrated to ensure a lighter texture. it won't be stretchy bc the gluten is cut by the bran in the whole wheat.
Reply to this Posted by: Rose Levy Beranbaum | February 14, 2008 11:48 AM #
That is a beautiful sound Beth, but I was trying to remember, and I don't think I've ever heard it when I use la cloche. The breads that come to mind are those that are sprayed with water before baking and then dried with the oven door open for 5 minutes at the end--like the heart of wheat or the hearth bread. The heart of wheat is the first one I remember hearing the crackling sound.
Reply to this Posted by: Matthew | February 14, 2008 11:43 AM #
Rose, I have a question about Gail Sher's whole wheat bread with ground wheatberries, and I'm writing because in your WW recipe above, you say that the dough will not form a ball at the end of the kneading. I wrote in about it before. The first time (Gail Sher's recipe)I was mixing it in the Zo, and saw that it wasn't "coming together," so I took it out and kneaded it by hand, with a little success. The second time my wheatberries were drier, as they had sat around more after I had ground them, and I was doing it all by hand, as I had a different bread in the zo. Maybe I should have added more water since the ground wheat berries were drier. At any rate, I could hardly knead it at all by hand, and the resulting bread was denser. It's a very delicious recipe, though. Can you tell us why the dough won't form a ball nor be elastic at the end of the kneading with your WW recipe? Might it be a similar issue I'm dealing with, even though Gail's recipe I'm making isn't 100% whole wheat?
By the way, I've decided in trying the Romertopf to place the bottom and top on a pizza stone and then preheat the oven (I'll be preheating the bottom just to make it easier to lift up the top). Meanwhile, I'll be letting my bread proof in my smaller Romertopf in a parchment "sling." Then I'll remove the big Romertopf from the oven, place the bread on the parchment on the pizza stone, and cover it with the top of the Romertopf. Does that sound reasonable? If the big Romertopf breaks, then I can go ahead and buy a cloche! I realize that I've never heard my crust talking to me when I take bread out of the oven, and I am longing to hear this happen.
Thanks, Beth
Reply to this Posted by: Beth | February 14, 2008 11:26 AM #
a stone grinder is considered the ultimate but burr grinders are also an excellent choice. texture is a matter of personal preference.
Reply to this Posted by: Rose Levy Beranbaum | September 21, 2007 8:52 AM #