Real Baking with Rose Levy Beranbaum

The New Steamer

I've actually written about this on the posting re my final conclusions on the "No Knead Bread" but want to list it as a new posting so no one will miss it. I've tried many steaming devices but the only one that produces a significant amount of steam is the "steam breadmaker." It comes with aluminum lids to contain the steam and an oven stone can also be ordered.
If your oven vents the air and steam such as my Gaggenau, the containers are ideal to hold the steam in during the critical first 10 minute phase of bread baking.(Moisture is vital during the first 10 minutes of bread baking for the best crust and crumb.)

In my Wolf gas oven with oven stone in place, after loading the bread, I simply crack open the preheated oven door, insert the steamer nozzle, and steam for 30 seconds.

Check out: http://info@steambreadmaker.com

From the kitchen of Rose on 12.29.06 at 8:29 AM in Equipment
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the manufacturer has offered to make these fantastic measuring spoons (the only ones i trust) available directly from him:

Cost for the 7 pc spoon set is $7.00
Cost for the 3 pc spoon set is $4.00
S&H $2.00 per address

he is also very generously offering the complete 14pc set (bowls, beakers, and measuring spoons) to "real baking with rose" bloggers. The cost is $39.95 plus $7.99 S& H

The suggested retail is $52.99 so there is a nice savings by ordering it directly from him. Checks only (no credit cards).

Make checks payable to:
Randy Kaas
4541 E
Frye Rd, Phoenix, AZ 85048

pourfect@cox.net

photos of the bowls, beakers, and measuring spoons are on the site http://www.pourfectbowl.com

From the kitchen of Rose on 12.23.06 at 12:43 PM in New Products
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Thought you'd all enjoy seeing what a magnificent panettone Hector from Hawaii has produced. He's posted several times about it and has been working relentlessly to achieve perfection! Bravo!

From the kitchen of Rose on 12.21.06 at 3:42 PM in Bread Questions
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The 18 Hour Fermented Dough

The Shaped Dough 6 to 6-1/2 by 2 Inches High

The 2 Hour Proofed Dough 8 to 8-1/2 by 2 Inches High

Dough Placed into the Hot Dutch Oven

The Bread Baked 20 Minutes with the Lid on

The Bread Placed on a Baking Sheet to Bake for 10 More Minutes

The 4 Inch High Loaf Cooling and Still Crisp

The Sliced Loaf

One Slice Held up to The Light

Well that’s what it looked like—an inflated balloon! I love the 80% hydration and may even increase it for the next go round. But this is pretty close to my idea of perfection for this bread.

I haven’t yet tried it in the Lodge 5 quart enamel cast iron as they are temporarily out of stock and I’m sure it’s due to this bread technique! But the reason I wanted to try it is because some people have reported problems with sticking in cast iron. This would not be the case if they used the Lodge pre-seasoned Dutch oven or if they already have a well-seasoned one. Lodge’s website has great directions for seasoning cast iron if/when it needs it. I’ve never had the bread stick in my reseasoned cast iron Dutch oven and the pot keeps getting blacker and more beautiful through use.

My Final (to Date) Recipe Weights and Volume
Harvest King flour or half unbleached all-purpose half bread flour:
468 grams (about 3 cups)
room temperature water: 382 grams, 1-1/2 cups plus 2 tablespoons/13 fluid ounces)
instant yeast: 0.8 grams/1/4 teaspoon
salt: 10 grams/1-2/3 teaspoons

NEW TIPS

Although free-form bread (baked on a stone) has the largest holes, 80% hydration is holey enough for me and I like the full 4 inch over-all height the Dutch oven side support gives it.

When bread is this moist and sticky, for shaping you need to scrape it onto a well- floured surface, and lightly flour the top before patting it down gently. Then use a bench scraper to help lift it for shaping. Latex gloves work wonderfully to keep it from sticking to your fingers if you’re not comfortable with handling super sticky doughs.

Set the shaped dough on a coarse-weave towel sprinkled amply with bran. No need to sprinkle the top as it should have enough flour from the counter.

Bread with 80% hydration will spread to about 8 1/2 inches and only rise to 2 inches when fully proofed and ready to bake. At 80˚F/26˚C. this takes 2 hours.

Latex gloves are ideal for transferring it to the hot Dutch oven. I use one end of the towel to flip the dough onto my hand and then slide my other hand under it and lift it over the pot. I set it as close to the bottom of the pot as I can without risking burning my hands and then drop it in the rest of the way.

I got the most marvelously thin and crisp crust by baking at 450˚F./230˚C for 20 minutes lid on, 10 minutes lid off, transferred to a baking sheet and 10 minutes more. Then 5 minutes oven propped ajar a few inches, then 5 minutes oven off and door open.

Now back to my new cake book manuscript!

From the kitchen of Rose on 12.19.06 at 11:30 AM in Bread
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I wouldn’t have missed it for the world, but almost did. October 17, 2006 Elliott was recovering from hip replacement surgery and not driving and I was recovering from sympathy back pains with four bulging discs. There was no way either of us could drive to New Jersey. But the ever gracious and generous Knowles sent a car for us so we got to participate in this unforgettable event that I’ve been wanting to post but have been waiting for some very special photos and for the courage to do it full justice.

My connection to the Manor goes a long way back to when my then 92 year old grandmother had her wedding ceremony there. (She married a younger man of 89!) It was a very intimate celebration so I wasn’t actually included, but only a few years later I had the good fortune to meet the owner of The Manor Harry Knowles, the family patriarch of the 6 generation restaurant family, at an event of the Chaine de Rotisseurs. And when the Cake Bible was published over 18 years ago, it was Harry who hosted the first press party for it at the Manor. By the time the Pie and Pastry Bible was published I had celebrated several more of my book publication parties at the Manor. And the incomparable Mary Jane Frankel, who is responsible for all the publicity including their publication “Manorisms,” always did a fantastic job rounding up all the local press and organizing the events.

At our first dinner at The Manor Elliott and I enjoyed a tour of the kitchens and we were both awed by this Utopia that addressed every possible comfort and indulgence not just for the guests but also for the staff. I had never before nor since seen a kitchen that had carpeting to make it easier underfoot. When I asked Harry how they maintained it he said “we just tear it up and replace it whenever necessary. It’s worth it because it makes the staff happy.” The pastry chef had a separate air-conditioned kitchen all to himself (believe me this is not the usual case—pastry chefs are usually relegated to the bowls of the restaurant where it is the most hot or an equally hot corner of the kitchen.) We learned that the Manor even has it’s own metal shop which produces and repairs all the copper cookware. And Elliott rejoiced over the substantial dining room chairs with arms which add so much to comfort for dining pleasure.

(from left to right, Kurt Knowles Junior, Chef Pasquale (the first chef at the Manor, Harry Knowles)

The Manor really pulled out all of its stops for the grand 50th celebration. The buffet preceding the formal dinner would have been more than enough. It included foie gras ravioli with fresh truffles, beef Wellington, rack of venison, every manner of cold seafood, and endless flowing champagne. But then we were ushered in to a dinner that was dramatically spectacular in every sense.

The butter roses created by pastry chef Nicola Petullo, were the most stunningly beautiful presentation of butter I’ve ever seen. Dinner included specialties that had become Manor classics such as Veal Oscar, Harry’s famed oysters escargot, a dense and deliciously bittersweet chocolate almond daquoise and a sorbet listed on the menu as a “Gold-Framed Treasure Chest” because it was served on a block of ice shimmering from some special light source that was magically imbedded from within. The finale dessert wine was an exquisite 2003 Les Clos de Paulilles Banyuls, appropriately leaving a sweet memory in the mouth and the mind.

What added immeasurably to the meal was the moving presence of every chef who had ever worked at The Manor since its inception, and a speech given by Bob Lape who dubbed the Manor the best restaurant in America and on CBS AM a few days later said that “The Knowles and The Manor have woven a perfect partnership with they community they live in, and the state of New Jersey. They are an essential part of the fabric of this state.”

The guest list was impressive including former NJ Governor Brendan Byrne; Michael Uslan, producer of Batfilms; Angelo Del Rossi, Executive Director Emeritus of Paper Mill Playhouse; Joseph Friedman, Executive Director of the NJ Motion Picture & Television Commission; NJ Superior Court Judge James H. Coleman, Jr.; and Mark Gillman of the New Jersey Restaurant Association; Joanna Pruess; and Laurent Drouhin.

It was also a great treat to see old friends, especially the Knowles brothers Kurt and Wade and their families. Kurt’s eldest son is already part of the restaurant operation.

Of course it was a special joy to be witness to the celebration of consistent quality and success resulting from a half century of hard work but the Knowles go beyond that—somehow they make those around them feel very much a part of it.

From the kitchen of Rose on 12.18.06 at 8:42 AM in Travel Adventures
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When Karen and Tom Trachalides took over the fish store opposite my favorite butcher Pino, on Sullivan Street, just south of Houston (ergo SoHo), April of 2003, the whole neighborhood rejoiced. The Trachalides named it Fresh Catch and for good reason—it is the only place I’ve found in New York City that has shrimp and also squid that have never been frozen. In addition to that, the fish is all impeccably prepared.

We also all took an immediate liking to this lovely and attractive young couple. Karen makes terrific crab cakes, salmon cakes, and seaweed salad among other things to take out or eat at the little tables opposite the display counter. And Tom introduced me to black fish which I had never even heard of before, saying that the fisherman usually keep this fish to themselves. He was wonderfully knowledgeable about fish and always willing to share and educate. So it was a horrible shock to discover, last month, as I was running by to drop off some cake sample treats, that the store was temporarily closed due to Tom’s sudden tragic passing from a heart attack.

Karen is now continuing to run the store, with the support of her sons, one of whom insists on doing the procuring at the fish market, saying that the market is not a woman-friendly world. I suspect that’s the truth and I also suspect he is being a wonderful son.

We should all be eating more fish in the first place, and supporting small neighborhood stores—not just out of sentiment and the value of personal connection—but also to maintain the quality of ingredients. I also hope everyone in the neighborhood will do everything to support Fresh Fish also because Karen is an exceptional person with great integrity and deserves it.
Fresh Catch: 212-777-5250

From the kitchen of Rose on 12.17.06 at 8:35 AM in Announcements
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Bread #10 is coming up on Monday but I can't wait any longer to post my findings so I will post again soon after my final test. I plan to try my new Lodge 5 quart enameled cast iron Dutch oven which I strongly anticipate to be the ultimate baking container for this bread. And because it will limit the sideways spread of the dough, I am able to try increasing the hydration of the dough to 80%--close to my ciabatta--to have even more open holes in the bread. Meantime here are my findings and tips to date:

Pros: Speed of mixing, flexibility to fit into your time schedule, excellent texture and good flavor. Baking in a preheated Dutch oven is ideal for those who don’t have baking stones.

Cons: Decreased shelf life, less flavor dimension.

My Favorite Container for Baking this Bread
Baking the bread on a baking stone with steam (see below) results in a 9 inch by 3-1/2 high loaf but using a 5 quart enameled cast iron or seasoned cast iron Dutch oven results in 7-1/2 inch by almost 4 inch high loaf which is my preference. In a larger Dutch oven the bread will be the same size as on a baking stone.

Steam
If not using a Dutch oven:
Using the steamer together with the steamer lid (see below) resulted in the shiniest crust, best color, thinnest most crisp crust, and most chewy crust and crumb.
The steamer is also very effective if using an oven stone without the lid and cracking open the oven door just enough to insert the nozzle and steam the oven for about 1 minute.
A hand-full of ice cubes, tossed into a preheated cast iron pan set on the floor of the oven is the next best thing to the steamer. Though not as effective as the steamer it is much better than spritzing which causes the oven temperature to fall a good (actually I mean BAD) 25˚F every time the oven door is opened.

Additions
I find that using 100% white wheat flour results in the largest holes. 7-1/2% whole wheat flour closes the holes somewhat but adds lovely flavor. When I add whole wheat flour I use 1/2 tablespoon more water (total 360 grams).

Tips
Use your fingers to mix the dough, reaching to the bottom to ensure that all the flour particles get moistened, without overworking the dough.

I’ve stuck to the 18 hour first rise at 70˚F/22˚C. and 2 hour shaped rise at 80˚/26˚C. I’ve found in general that a warmer shaped rise results in a more open crumb. The dough is ready to bake when you poke it gently with your fingertip and it fills in slowly. I’ve found it to be consistently 8 inches by almost 2-1/2 inches in size at this point.

To keep the sticky dough from sticking to the towel, it’s best to use a coarse-weave towel and bran. Flour absorbs too much into the dough.

To avoid bran flying all over the kitchen, brush any excess from the towel. The top of the dough should feel slightly dry but if not, dust it with a little flour. Use the towel to invert the dough onto the counter and with floured hands, lift the dough and gently lower it into the pot, being very careful to avoid touching the hot sides.

In my oven, I bake the bread at 450˚F/230˚C. for 20 minutes. Then without the lid for 10 minutes. To keep the bottom from over-browning I set the bread on a baking sheet and return it to the oven for 5 minutes with the door propped partially ajar. (This allows moisture to escape and helps to keep the crust crisp.)

My (Almost) Final Recipe Weights and Volume
Harvest King flour or half unbleached all-purpose half bread flour:
468 grams (about 3 cups)
room temperature water: 354 grams, 1-1/2 cups (I’m trying 382 grams/1-
2/3 cups water for an 80% hydration in my new Lodge enameled cast
iron Dutch oven next)
instant yeast: 0.8 grams/1/4 teaspoon
salt: 10 grams/1-2/3 teaspoons

The New Steamer
I adore this steaming device for rustic loaves not baked in a Dutch oven, and use it in my Wolf oven with oven stone in place and without the lid. But in my country Gaggenau I’ll use it with the accompanying lid because even when not set on convection the fan vents out the air and moisture along with it. (Moisture is vital during the first 10 minutes of bread baking for the best crust and crumb.)
Check out: http://info@steambreadmaker.com

From the kitchen of Rose on 12.16.06 at 11:43 AM in Bread
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Gift of Love

Louis Borachaner is a great and talented baker from Hungary. He is also a great person. I wrote about him many years ago in “The Pie and Pastry Bible” because I heard that when he was pastry chef at the Boulders in Carefree AZ he created the original crème brulée tart that many chefs since were laying claim to.

It wasn’t until many years later that I happened into his former bakery in Colorado Springs (“Bread Head”—named by his son.) He recognized me from the photo on my book and introduced himself. It was such a joy finally to meet him.

I was delighted to hear from Louis Borachaner again recently when he sent me information about his latest production: The worlds largest chocolate menorah for Hanukah. It stands all of 9 feet tall and surely smells as delicious as it looks against the backdrop of Pike’s Peak and the other snow-capped mountains. Louis made this as a gift to the Jewish community of Co. Springs.

The spirit of this gift touches my heart because it follows a very beautiful tradition of embracing other people’s spiritual beliefs. Did you know that the most powerful Jewish liturgical music, the Kol Nidre, was written by the musician and Protestant minister Max Bruch as a gift to the Jewish community in England? I wrote my book “Rose’s Christmas Cookies,” in this same spirit and was rewarded by it becoming a classic, still beloved by many after 15 years. My editor, at first, doubted the wisdom of my writing it, but admitted later that she had been mistaken. And what was one of the truly most gratifying moments of my professional life was when a reviewer in Rhode Island wrote that the introduction contained the most moving prose on Christmas ever to be written. I still get the chills even as I write this.

Happy Holidays Everyone and help keep the love and spirit of this season going all year ‘round.

From the kitchen of Rose on 12.15.06 at 12:15 PM in Announcements
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i just saw my friend Rosanne Gold on the today show, demonstrating two recipes from her new cookbook "cooking for kids" 1-2-3. i 've long felt that in addition to sharing a name, we have a strong aesthetic bond and the proof this time was her apple sauce (the traditional accompaniment to latkes) prepared with apples, brown sugar and cranberries.

since we won't be home for dinner tonight (the first night of hanukka) i got a head start on my latke making a few nights ago. and as i still had some cranberry sauce from Thanksgiving (mine had some fresh ginger in it as well) i literally put 2 and 2 together and came up with the most beautiful and delicious applesauce ever.

uncharacteristically, i didn't measure--i just added the cranberry sauce to taste. really hard to go wrong with this! even using prepared apple sauce and cranberry sauce it will be great and i encourage you to try it.

i'm posting this without the photo (that should appear soon after) so hopefully you'll get it in time for tonight, but after all, hanukka is 8 days so there's plenty of time. oh dear--as i started to write that this cran-apple sauce will be delicious all year round my mind immediately leapt to pork chops--but not this week.

update: here's the photo...

From the kitchen of Rose on 12.15.06 at 8:51 AM in Savory Cooking
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it happens to everyone but is alway such a shock. my main computer just went out. it may not be resolved til the end of the week so i probably won't be answering questions until then except intermittently. will post the no knead bread diary as soon as i'm back in action.

From the kitchen of Rose on 12.11.06 at 1:41 PM in Announcements
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i just came home to a marvelous surprise from my beloved editor of "the bread bible," maria guarnaschelli. she send me the hot off the press czech edition. the cover photo and inside photos are the same but the language required 100 more pages and i hardly recognize a single word! my name appears as rose levyova beranbaumova with accent marks over both a's. the name of the book ib "bible domaciho peceni"--wonder if domaciho refers to domestic or home. anyway, it is the first time i've seen any of my books in another language because, as they say re the uk edition--two countries separated by one language! back to czech, there sure are an astonishing number and variety of accent marks.
i sure hope to get some feedback from bread bakers in czechoslovakia but please in english!!!

From the kitchen of Rose on 12.10.06 at 5:38 PM in Rose's Books
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November 7 marked the one year anniversary of this blog, which has prompted pause for reflection on how it has changed my life and what value it has provided.

For one thing, it has eaten up a significant amount of time, but on the positive side the rewards have been well-worth it. I’ve long thought that a good teacher learns at least as much as the students and in this case, thanks to the terrific feedback and exchange of ideas, it is certainly so. But perhaps our blog ‘host’ said it best when he wrote in his newsletter that this blog has created a community of bakers.

What is most gratifying to me is that the spirit of this blog is in harmony with the slow food movement which implicitly counteracts that of fast food—the source of many evils. In place of the dumbed-down, simple, quick and easy message is the far more empowering one of competency, evolution, and challenge. After all it’s a truism that when one makes an effort to achieve something the rewards are richer and more long-lasting, whereas things that come too easily are far less valued and quickly forgotten. (I’m still mystified as to the appeal of “dumb and dumber.”)

Ironically though, I was thrilled by the appearance of the NY Times No-Knead Bread article which lead to the longest thread on the blog to date. I was thrilled because it got people around the world making bread and discovering that it really is possible to make fantastic bread at home “letting the bread do all the work.” And I’m confident that for many who got hooked on this easy method, which works so well for a particular type of rustic bread, it will now lead to other interesting and slightly more demanding bread possibilities.

My current concern (and maybe hope) is that there may be so much traffic on this blog there will be no way to keep up with all the responses and questions. But on the positive side, many of your questions and contributions are invaluable and the chances are ever increasing that eventually everything you’ve ever wondered about baking will be found with a quick search on the blog. Then, when everyone is busily and successfully baking, I can go back full-time to my most beloved activity after baking: Telling stories.

Happy Baking!

From the kitchen of Rose on 12.05.06 at 5:58 PM in Announcements
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From the Milwaukee Journal Sentinel:

Nothing says "Happy Holidays" like a homemade gift.

While cookies are classic holiday offerings, the possibilities of distinctive gifts from the kitchen - individual-size cakes, mini cheesecakes and a sampler of homemade nibbles - abound.

"The holidays are an ideal time to bake," says Rose Levy Beranbaum, author of "The Cake Bible" (William Morrow, 1988). "Life slows down and people want to celebrate. There isn't a gift that is more appreciated than a home-baked one."

From the kitchen of Rose on 12.01.06 at 2:33 PM in Press Mentions
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