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Deep Chocolate Passion Cake/The Foote-Patterson Wedding
This is the first time I’ve ever made a wedding cake away from my own home kitchen so back in August I started compiling long lists of essential ingredients and equipment necessary for the task. I forgot one indispensable item, however, until 2 days before I was due to fly out to S.F. as I was visualizing the whole process in my mind’s eye—a heavy duty turntable. Luckily my friends Caitlin and Meg from Miette Bakery jumped in generously loaning me their best, most smoothly turnable turntable. Caitlin also managed to find me the Green and Black cocoa which is my favorite and had been sold out at Whole Foods.
I also couldn’t have managed this complex cake without the help and moral support of my dear friend Diane Boate, aka the Cake Lady of S.F. who also took these excellent photos, and her long time very significant other Robert Myers who cheerfully stood by always ready to chauffer us back and forth to Daniel Patterson’s new restaurant Coi where he was preparing both the rehearsal dinner and his wedding dinner for 135 while I on the opposite side of the kitchen was making the cake (what a sport)! And finally, if not for the loan of their neighbor’s microwave, I’d still be there trying to get the glaze to the exact right temperature! The cake took 16 hours to complete—12 hours the first day as the layers needed to be baked, syruped, and frosted a day ahead of glazing. Day two was the glazing, insertion of the straws support for tiering, and day three was packing the layers so that they wouldn’t touch the sides of the boxes during transport to the hilly headlands! Then of course the hair-raising business of tiering the layers on top of each other and attaching the chocolate twigs en site with people watching.
Diane Boate
This cake, which is a ground-breaking new cake that I’ve been working on for months for my upcoming book “Rose’s Heavenly Cakes”—Fall 2008, is a chiffon type of chocolate cake that fills the pan only about one-third full and in the last 10 minutes of baking magically rises to the very top. It is moist and dense, yet light, and tender and deeply chocolaty hence the name “Deep Chocolate Passion Wedding Cake.” The baked layers are brushed with a milk chocolate syrup and then masked with a dark chocolate ganache. Then each layer is glazed with a “Dark Chocolate Lacquer Glaze” that is as shiny as a baby grand piano. The finished cake weighed in at about 17 pounds off the presentation stand. (It felt like an athletic event!)
Milk Chocolate Syruping the Cake
Frosting the Cake, Bob Myers Looking on (about to Lick the Whisk)
The Glazed Layers
The wedding took place at the Marin Headlands Art Center and the theme was a rustic winter wedding. Much to my delight, the beautiful and gracious bride Alexandra Foote (who is an environmental lawyer) had the good taste to request an all chocolate cake and asked if I could somehow incorporate curly willow branches as the décor. Thank goodness for Google—I found chocolate twigs made with ValRhona chocolate that were dramatic and delicious. Lacking that, I would have been tempted to pipe chocolate meringue twigs but feared the possible S.F. humidity would cause them to droop (more than curly willow would have).
Rose at the Headlands about to Tier the Layers (Note the Straw Supports)
To my delight, guests included dear friends and colleagues Paula Wolfert and husband Bill Bayer (the renowned detective writer), Harold Mcgee (“On Food and Cooking”), Kathleen, Ed, and Aaron Weber of Della Fattoria (they supplied the bread) and perfumer Mandy Aftel who was Daniel’s co-author of "Aroma." It was the most original and enjoyable wedding I've ever attended. And the highlight for me, in addition to meeting some wonderful people was the enchanting little flower girl Sarah, looking like a confection herself in her pink dress, who hugged me around the knees exclaiming “I LOVE your CAKE!” I was also vastly relieved when Daniel pronounced that the cake exceeded his expectations. (I was almost afraid he’d never talk to me again after having so disrupted his kitchen and wedding preparations.) The truth: In all due modesty the cake exceeded my expectations as well! It was the best gift I could offer to two dear friends one of whom is a chef whose work I so deeply admire.
Sarah, The Flower Girl
Rose and the Webers of Della Fattoria
The Weber's Bread from Della Fattoria
The wedding dinner included delicious and tender Broken Arrow Ranch wild boar sous vide, Grimaud guinea fowl en crepinette (lacy caul fat), and several different wines, my favorite of which was the NV Sean Thackery Pleiades XV, Bolinas. By happy coincidence I was sitting opposite the wine maker! The tables were also graced by custom-blended perfume by Mandy Aftel (black pepper, pink grapefruit, cocoa, coffee, agarwood, cedar, nutmeg, Peru balsam)
The after dinner coffee was extraordinarily good: Blue Bottle (available on line). And finally came the cake cutting ceremony after which it was whisked into an adjoining back room. The cake was cut and plated under my “mother of the cake supervision” but before it could be brought out to the serving area, most of the guests had stormed in and it vanished within minutes.
The Cake Cutting Ceremony
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Comments
HI Gail,
You won't have to use as much color and remember that the color will darken as it rests. Why not try and convince your client that their guests won't look very good with black teeth; that they should skip the black and go with the lovely rich dark chocolate? THis is the tack I take whenever someone wants black or dark red. Food color will always make a frosting more bitter. The darker the color the more flavor it will impart. This is also a feature you can express to your client.
good luck!
jennifer
Reply to this Posted by: jennifer | October 20, 2008 11:52 AM #
I noticed you mentioned black cocoa. I've never heard of this but I have a wedding cake to do with black icing. My question is if I use the black cocoa will I need to use as much black food coloring?I've had people tell me they use chocolate icing so they don't have to use as much black food coloring but also if I use this will it make the icing bitter? Thanks for any help or suggestions I can get!!!
Reply to this Posted by: Gail | October 17, 2008 6:22 PM #
u did a grt job... cake seems so delecious............
Reply to this Posted by: sonal agrawal | October 12, 2008 11:29 AM #
What a cool piece .. Wasn't able to get to my cousin, Alexandra Foote's wedding but that cake sounds unbelievable.
Edmund Davis-Quinn
Reply to this Posted by: Edmund Davis-Quinn | April 16, 2008 8:14 AM #
Thks Matthew, that was useful info. Will let you know the outcome of my test batch!
Reply to this Posted by: Elicia | September 10, 2007 9:51 PM #
Elicia,
Grapefruit has an acidity level about right in the middle between a lime and and orange, so you might try the average of the two recipes. I don't know about the zest--maybe just taste some and see what you think.
Reply to this Posted by: Matthew | September 10, 2007 12:22 PM #
Fruit mousseline seems to get requested by my customers all the time - they love the raspberry buttercream and the passionfruit curd buttercream... and now I have a specific request for grapefruit curd. Since I've yet to work with grapefruit, wonder if anyone can advise me on which of the curd variations in the PPB to follow? I think I can follow the Seville orange curd proportions as grapefruit is quite citrusy... What abt the rind - wld grapefruit rind be too bitter?
Reply to this Posted by: Elicia | September 10, 2007 12:09 PM #
Oh Matthew, Lovely mangolicious cake! I also search for new cake fillings and ideas from the PBB! I have a great mango charlotte recipe which wld be lovely if redecorated as per your cake. Am really tempted to attempt it next!
Reply to this Posted by: Elicia | June 15, 2007 9:04 AM #
Matthew - thanks for the photo of the cake slice - I truly appreciate when someone takes the time to cut a cake properly (in my circles I think I'm the only person who cares about such things, but on this blog I know I'm not alone).
As for not knowing if you will fill the layers of your next mango passion cake with passion curd or buttercream, why don't you do a combination of the two.
Reply to this Posted by: Patrincia | June 12, 2007 10:49 AM #
Matthew, thank you for sharing a slice. I find a picture of a sliced cake as close as eating one. You can see the wonderful texture and shape as well as how it plates wonderfully.
Reply to this Posted by: Hector | June 12, 2007 12:11 AM #
Cindy, yes I used an apricot glaze. You can find the full instructions for making the rose in the Pie and Pastry Bible. I would estimate the rose took 30 to 45 minutes including slicing the mangoes. My only tip beyond the P&PB instructions is to choose mangoes that are ripe but firm, with no soft places. This makes slicing the "petals" much easier. I used thicker slices for the outside and went progressively smaller.
I had another piece tonight and I liked the combination of the curd cream against the cake better, so perhaps I won't switch to all buttercream next time afterall--but a band of buttercream across the middle might be even better. Here is a picture of a slice from tonight--the mangoes hold up pretty well even after a day.
Reply to this Posted by: Matthew | June 11, 2007 11:12 PM #
Bravo, Metthew, the mango looks so shiny with lust. Did you glaze it or not. Is there a tip of how the individual mango petal should be like to make such a wonderful "mango Rose" How long does the assembling takes? Thanks for sharing.
Reply to this Posted by: cindy | June 11, 2007 8:46 PM #
Sure--I started from the outside and moved in. One more thing, if I make this again, I would use all buttercream. The curd cream is wonderful in the context of the tart. When the proportion of cake increases however, the flavor gets covered--but the buttercream held its own.
Reply to this Posted by: Matthew | June 11, 2007 5:52 PM #
Matthew - one more question about your beautiful mango cake... did you start arranging the mangoes in the center or along the outside edge?
Reply to this Posted by: Patrincia | June 11, 2007 5:34 PM #
Matthew - good thinking!
Reply to this Posted by: Patrincia | June 11, 2007 5:23 PM #
That's a good question. No, the design staid in place when cut with a sharp knife. I did not frost the top of the cake so any liquid from the mangoes or apricot glaze would be absorbed by the genoise. I think the genoise also gripped the mango slices and held them in place.
Reply to this Posted by: Matthew | June 11, 2007 5:09 PM #
Matthew - was your Mango Passion Cake hard to slice? (without destroying your design)
Reply to this Posted by: Patrincia | June 11, 2007 4:18 PM #
Matthew, The simpler things can be the best. I like your Mango Passion Cake VERY much! You placed the mango slices similar to Rose's apple pie, making a Rose! signature dish. I am obligated to make this mango/passion delight since we can get very good mango and passion fruit locally. Thanks for sharing.
Reply to this Posted by: Hector | June 11, 2007 3:12 PM #
The cake contains four 3/4 inch layers of génoise classique brushed with rum and filled with passion fruit curd cream. The outside is passion fruit mousseline buttercream.
Reply to this Posted by: Matthew | June 11, 2007 2:19 PM #
Matthew, that is a beautiful cake! What kind of cake/filling/frosting is underneath those mango slices?
Reply to this Posted by: Theresa | June 11, 2007 2:09 PM #
agree--totally stunning and original!!!
Reply to this Posted by: Rose Levy Beranbaum | June 11, 2007 12:44 PM #
Oh Matthew, your cake is just fabulous looking! Excellent-excellent job!
Reply to this Posted by: Patrincia | June 11, 2007 12:08 PM #
Rose,
I wanted to share a photo of the Mango Passion Cake I made this weekend, inspired by your Mango Passion Tart in the Pie Bible. I made the tart last week, and it was out of this world! I also made the passion fruit ice cream from the Pie Bible and served it with this cake.
Reply to this Posted by: Matthew | June 11, 2007 12:58 AM #
I've sent them an email almost right away. Will keep you posted if I get a reply. /H
Reply to this Posted by: Hector | May 20, 2007 12:53 AM #
Patricia,
I wasn't sure if you or anyone else wanted a copy but I knew for sure Hector did. I'll mention it in my e-mail now that I know.
Rozanne
Reply to this Posted by: Rozanne | May 19, 2007 11:56 AM #
Rozanne - why don't you mention that there are many people on the blog who would be interested in getting a copy.
Reply to this Posted by: Patrincia | May 19, 2007 9:57 AM #
Rose, thank you so much for that information. It's very helpful.
Hector, do you want me to mention in my e-mail that you are interested in obtaining a copy as well?
Rozanne
Reply to this Posted by: Rozanne | May 19, 2007 9:36 AM #
you could both try contacting the producer. maybe for a price they'd do it as they own the production and have the tapes so it shouldn't be such a big deal to make copies. they may not want to bother with it though. still--worth trying: marjorie@mpptv.com and copy alec@mpptv.com.
Reply to this Posted by: Rose Levy Beranbaum | May 18, 2007 3:34 PM #
Hi Rozanne, I am after Baking Magic, too!! No luck so far, my local PBS don't have it.
Reply to this Posted by: Hector | May 18, 2007 1:05 PM #
Hector,
Did you have any luck getting your hands on the Baking Magic series? If you do let me know. I'd love to have a copy as well. I have been looking too but with no luck so far.
Rozanne
Reply to this Posted by: Rozanne | May 18, 2007 9:55 AM #
thanks hector!
Reply to this Posted by: Rose Levy Beranbaum | May 17, 2007 6:37 PM #
I've just got the book A Passion for Chocolate. AWESOME!!! Nice job that Rose did as a translator/adapter after writing Cake Bible.
Reply to this Posted by: Hector | May 17, 2007 1:51 PM #
i have two terrific ones in my upcoming book fall 2008. thanks for asking.
Reply to this Posted by: Rose Levy Beranbaum | May 6, 2007 7:44 PM #
I have not noticed a recipe for coconut cake in your book. You have recipes that use it as a filling, but not directly into the batter of the cake. Can you share a recipe with coconut flakes or coconut milk in the batter of the cake?
Reply to this Posted by: A. Wood | May 6, 2007 7:43 PM #
you need to add flour.
Reply to this Posted by: Rose Levy Beranbaum | February 22, 2007 11:33 AM #
Is it possible to make the Cloud Roll without any chocolate, just the sponge alone? Do I need to add something or reduce something?
Reply to this Posted by: Juliana | February 22, 2007 11:23 AM #
chocolate has very little if any moisture but it does provide a lot of structure from the starch in the cooca solids. it can't be replaced with purée.
Reply to this Posted by: Rose Levy Beranbaum | February 22, 2007 10:38 AM #
Hi Rose,
Do you know the percentage of moisture in chocolate?
I am thinking of replacing the bittersweet chocolate in your Chocolate Cloud Roll recipe with strawberry puree. Can I just replace with an equal weight of strawberry puree or do I need to reduce the puree and add flour? I don't want to use wheat flour because I want to keep it gluten-free.
Could you give me some guidelines so that if I have to experiment with the recipe, at least I know I am going in the right direction?
Thanks.
Reply to this Posted by: Juliana | February 22, 2007 10:34 AM #
I am learnig to make handcut donuts. Why do some of them rise upright and some rise looking like the leaning tower of pisa? I am careful about rolling the dough evenly.
Reply to this Posted by: bonnie mochun | January 31, 2007 7:38 AM #
i must have a sexy brain bc the names popped right out of it!
Reply to this Posted by: Rose Levy Beranbaum | January 25, 2007 9:44 AM #