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And Now for a Little Something to Go with All That NK Bread
I never make soup. That’s because I’ve been under the mistaken impression that my husband of 30 years doesn’t like it. But having him home convalescing from his second successful hip-replacement surgery I’ve noticed that he’s been eating canned soup practically every day for lunch. Naturally I had to spring into action and do something about this.
What resulted was the best soup I’ve ever tasted—possibly the best thing I’ve ever tasted period: soul satisfying, nourishing, complex flavors with exquisite texture. I mourned the last mouthful and licked both bowls. It didn’t hurt that extreme cold weather has arrived—finally—which makes everything taste that much better.
It began with a veal shank from my butcher Pino. I was trying a recipe from Molly Steven’s glorious book on braising. She mentioned in the recipe that if you were lucky enough to find a whole shank weighing around 4 pounds instead of the smaller bottom section usually available it would be a great alternative. That was all Pino had or even understood as being a shank and it weighed 5 pounds. I had to use my meat cleaver and a lot of courage to hack off the end so it would fit in the pot.
I adored the dish. Elliott did not, as he calls braised food depression food. He may have a point—it’s an excellent way to cook potentially tough cuts but also great for lean and expensive cuts like veal! After enjoying every last bit down to the ligaments, i regretted having no access to the marrow—my very favorite part. So I brought it back to Pino who has an electric saw. No more hacking with the meat cleaver for me.
Pino eyed the bone with astonished admiration saying: you sure did a good job on it—there’s not a shred of meat left. I smiled. He knows how I appreciate and make the most of his meat. He proceeded to cut the bone in three parts in short order and off I trotted to start the soup. Since I was going to be home all day I decided to boil the bone until it was time to add the beans. And all day long I was treated to the aroma of veal stock. (I boiled it a good 9 hours along with that little piece I had hacked off.)I remembered my recipe for pitcha that I haven’t made for years—calves food jelly—and decided that next time around I’ll use the foot which has even more gelatin. Which reminds me of a hilarious story. My recipe tester at the time (no names mentioned here) told me that the recipe wasn’t working—it wouldn’t jell. After much Sherlock Holmes type scrutiny I discovered that instead of using the two calves feet I had called for he decided that bigger was better and used a cow’s foot! If I were to have another caricature drawn I would suggest including a huge magnifying glass.
So the first secret of this soup is the veal bone which gives it not just fantastic flavor but also a gorgeous velvety fullness in the mouth that usually requires fat to achieve.
The second secret is purple barley introduced to me by my friend and colleague Marguerite Thomas. We both found it at Whole Foods. It takes the same amount of time as the beans and maintains its slight crunch.
The third secret is fregola—a toasted round little pasta from Italy—check on line for source. Israeli couscous could be substituted but will take a little less time to cook.
The third secret is sautéing the vegetables which gives a much deeper and more mellow flavor.
I also added little chunks of left-over veal. It would also be fine to poach some small veal shanks or osso bucco cut veal for about 2 hours before adding the beans, remove them to cool, cut into small pieces to add at the end.
Another addition I’ll make next time is a few dried porcini mushrooms added with the vegetables.
In the spirit of full disclosure I also added a little of the left over sautéed shallots and about 2 tablespoons of the stock from braising the veal with rosemary, vermouth, orange, a hint of honey, and lemon zest and a little vinegar, so rosemary or thyme and a little balsamic would be great additions but just a very small amount--use your judgement--just a soupçon!
Remember—no salt until the beans are cooked to ensure that they soften. I know some people maintain that it makes no difference but I believe in taking no chances. I’m aspiring to bean not bullet soup!
Beans and Barley Soup
January 2007
Serves: 4 Cooking time for beans: total 2 hours
Note: After the bones have been boiling for as long as possible, remove them and reduce the liquid to 1 quart. Cut off any cartilage to add at the end (Instead of pouring it out into a measuring cup I start off by adding 1 quart of water to the pot and measure the depth with a ruler.)
white beans: 142 grams/5 ounces/3/4 cup, soaked for at least 7 hours, and drained
purple barley: 47 grams/1.7 ounces/1/4 cup, soaked for at least 2 hours
1 bay leaf
1 1/2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
carrots, chopped
1 medium onion, chopped
1 stalk celery, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
fregola (toasted pasta balls): 42 grams/1.5 ounces/1/4 cup
salt and pepper to taste
Add the drained beans and barley to the simmering quart of stock (UNsalted) and simmer for 30 minutes, partially covered. (If using regular pearl barley add it after the first hour of cooking.
Meanwhile, sauté the carrots, onion, and celery for about 10 minutes or until the onions are translucent and beginning to brown. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat and add the vegetables to the simmering beans after the first 30 minutes of cooking. Simmer, still partially covered, for 40 minutes.
Add the fregola and continue cooking for another 20 minutes. Then add leftover veal if using it and continue simmering for 10 minutes. If further thickness is desired leave the cover off. Alternatively, if too thick, add some boiling water. Remove and discard the bay leaf. Taste and adjust the seasonings.
Ladle into bowls and drizzle a little olive oil on top.
Note: I defrosted two slices of NK bread, heated them in the oven for 3 minutes at 350˚/175˚C., spread on a little butter for mine, and was astonished by the mild sourdough quality that I hadn’t detected when eaten freshly baked!
On a second note, it would be a good idea to increase this recipe as it’s too good not to have second helpings.
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Comments
well i hope by now you've tried it and worked it out bc it sounded like a really good idea. too many wheat berries would weight it down and of course the whole wheat flour will close the crumb but give it a good flavor.
Reply to this Posted by: Rose Levy Beranbaum | March 30, 2007 1:55 AM #
I have made no-knead bread several times and want to change it up a bit. Do I have a good plan here? I plan to use 33% whole wheat flour and 66% white, cook the wheat berries in water on the stove for about an hour, and use the cooking water in the bread. Sound good? I've never done anything like this before! What's a good amount of wheat berries to use in the Bittman (no-knead) loaf? I don't want too many but I want to notice them. Thanks!
Reply to this Posted by: Alison | February 17, 2007 1:14 AM #
i wasn't happy with the sourdough version of the NK but some pple were so read through the blog postings for their comments.
before using a starter you have to feed it about 2 times allowing it to double each time until it doubles within 4 to 6 hours. if you have my book "the bread bible" there are detailed instructions for this and quantities to use. alternatively, if you google sourdough starters you'll find lots on line as well.
Reply to this Posted by: Rose Levy Beranbaum | February 8, 2007 8:29 AM #
I have made the NK Bread twice and both times it came out great. I've found that the secret is to watch the video and follow what he does exactly. He uses dry measuring cups for all the ingredients. I made a whole wheat and rye version, both were great. This is my first time posting; is it ok to post the ingredient amounts and what I did? I also made a Split Pea Soup with Ham. I made a ham stock using a bone from a xmas ham and some ham hocks. The rye bread was perfect with it. Anyway I am very interested in making bread and baking in general; I've even taken a breadbaking class. I have 2 sourdough starters in my fridge since May which I dutifully discard 1/2 of and feed every week but have yet to bake with. I just don't have the time so the NK bread was great but I'm wondering; can my starters be used in this recipe? If so; in what amounts? Another question about the starters that I'm not clear on is; do you feed them before you use them? My assumption is yes b/c you want them active but I'm not sure. Also do you use them right after being fed or do you let them ferment(?) for a period of time. Thanks for all your help and I look forward to hearing from all of you. Joyce
Reply to this Posted by: joyce | February 8, 2007 6:13 AM #
zlast: i have never made soup bowls with sourdough bread--at any rate it wouldn't be the same method because it requires a banneton to hold it's shape.
marie: great to hear from you!
agnes, specialty butcher shops can order shanks for you.
beth: thanks for answering re NK bread!
Reply to this Posted by: Rose Levy Beranbaum | February 7, 2007 12:40 PM #
To help out the baker asking the question above:
"NK" means No Knead...
Reply to this Posted by: Beth | February 7, 2007 9:00 AM #
Where do you find veal shanks for making soup? I think all the chefs get them for hotels and such, never see them. I just use regular bones but your soup sounds wonderful so will try and hunt for a small butcher, I think they are like gold also in very very short supply.
Reply to this Posted by: Agnes Devine | February 6, 2007 9:37 PM #
Rose,
That soup sounds amazing--and thanks for the advice about not salting the water. I don't think I ever knew that there was a salt/no-salt controversy, but now that I know, I'll add salt later in the process.
What a relief that the second surgery went well too!
Reply to this Posted by: marie wolf | February 6, 2007 9:07 PM #
Found it! Sorry I missed it earlier when there is a full index to freezing. Thank you for giving the amount you use per bowl. Have you made the bread bowls with sourdough? Same amounts and method? Including undercooking by a few minutes?
Reply to this Posted by: zlast | February 6, 2007 8:19 PM #
Ah soup! It may be my ancestral peasant heritage but soup just satisfys! Takes me back to that mythical stone cottage deep in the primeval forests of Hungary. A method used by many chefs and myself, is to dry roast soup bones before adding to the pot until they are dark brown and the marrow drools. I love perusing the market to find as many fresh vegatables including rutabagas, parsnips and fresh herbs that will fit in the pot. More soup please and pass the crusty rye with a slab of cold butter please. Sorry, I digress, some foods cause me to pine poetic.
Reply to this Posted by: Laurel | February 6, 2007 7:57 PM #
I can't wait to make your soup. I will make some machine bread to enjoy with the soup. I take my dough out and let it rise in a bread pan. Then bake and it is so good. No hole either...
Reply to this Posted by: Gwen Holt | February 6, 2007 7:52 PM #
what is an "NK bread", please.
Reply to this Posted by: amy hall | February 6, 2007 7:02 PM #
hope you enjoy it as much as i did!
Reply to this Posted by: Anonymous | February 6, 2007 6:09 PM #
Hi Rose,
Its "Andi" the Floroscopy I/M lady...
Loved your blog about soup....
I just was in Whole foods and picked up a large veal shank,never thinking of course soup.hmmmmnn..yummmm......
I make soup all the time in the winter with yummy crusty warm bread ....Great winter treat..by the fireplace.....and OMG (*)?(*) the house smells so good all day long...
I make pea soup with Flanken and veg barley,plus chicken soup....
But I cheat and make my bread in a electric bread machine...:-)
I am going to try your recipe tomorrow..yummmm
Thanks so much for all your inspiration.
Speedy recovery for your dear husband.
Wish you were my neighbor..
smiles,and hugs...
Andi*
Reply to this Posted by: Andi* | February 6, 2007 6:03 PM #
thank you beth--i LOVE knowing that!
Reply to this Posted by: Anonymous | February 6, 2007 5:16 PM #
Well, good for you, Rose, for diving into the soup pot. Homemade soup has always been a standard in ym life, as my grandmother (Albanian) used all leftovers in soup. And always served the soup wiht home made bread.
Also, I caved and purchased a grain mill for my Kitchen aid. I, the person who said I didn't have time to grind my own, will now use nothing but. I made your 100% whole wheat bread this weekend (for the 10th time) wihtout the walnuts and with canola oil and baked it in a large baguette mold...and oh, my! The perfect whole grain bread.I'm hooked and have discovered hard wheat berries in bulk at Wild Oats for about .50 a pound. I think I am going to have to quit my job and just dedicate my life to baked goods and soup. I'll weigh 300 lbs, but such are the sacrifices in life! Thanks for showing me the way!
And godspeed in the recovery of your husband's hip.
Beth
Reply to this Posted by: Beth | February 6, 2007 9:29 AM #
please check the book--page 90 discusses how i wrap bread for freezing and reheating.
the only bread i can think of off hand that doesn't keep well is the semolina bread.
re the bread bowls,i make them on a stone and they form a very nice shape of 4 inches by 2 1/2 inches high--perfect for hollowing out. i use 160g/5.8 ounces for each one. i hope this helps.
Reply to this Posted by: Rose Levy Beranbaum | February 5, 2007 12:53 PM #
I am never quite sure where to post when I don't find a good starting point by searching, so please tell me where's best.
For now, since this regards soup, I'm using this as my jumping off point. Your soup sounds delicious and I'll make a version of it soon, this Friday in fact, since we're hosting a soup and bread dinner for 30 people. Which brings my 2 questions:
I need too much bread to bake it all on Friday. What is your recommendation in terms of which breads freeze best, how you wrap them for freezing, how long (if at all) to defrost, and how to warm? For future reference, what do you think it the maximum in-freezer time? And if timing allows, would you bake then freeze, or freeze the dough at some step along the way and defrost it to continue? You've mentioned having bread in your freezer, so I'm guessing you've had lots of experience with this as with so much baking-related!
Also, I found a reference in this blog that you like the heart of wheat bread for bread bowls -- love that bread, so that sounds great. But how do you make your bread bowls? I've been making all my bread in a La Cloche -- using the NK method even for standard breads -- and I've been pleased. But that is way too big for individual bowls. When I say "bowl," I mean small rounded loaves that I can slightly hollow out and put soup in, not a bowl-shaped bread as I've made on the outside of my La Cloche to serve salad in. I'm not sure what you mean by the term.
Last comment, regarding the La Cloche: I found the basic NK bread too small for it, so I've increased my amount of flour to 600 grams total and adjusted the other ingredients proportionally, as you explain how to do in the Bread Bible. I've been using about 60% Harvest King and the rest mostly whole wheat with a little rye. Yum!
As always, I really appreciate the time and effort you put into your blog!
Reply to this Posted by: zlast | February 5, 2007 10:36 AM #
Rose,
I watched the no-knead video yesterday and it seems so easy, but I have never baked bread in my life and I am so nervous to try it. But reading this article on the soup you made and how it goes well with home baked bread it really tempting me to bake it. Maybe I'll give it a try. I agree about everything tasting good in cold weather, it is -30 (with windchill) in Toronto today! Here's hoping your husband will recover fast.
Rozanne
Toronto
Reply to this Posted by: Rozanne | February 4, 2007 6:47 PM #
Sounds delicious! It must be the lovely cold weather but I have been making lots of soups and beans dishes. But I think bread and soup is wonderful...especially if you make loads you have leftovers and don't have to cook the next night!
Reply to this Posted by: Melinda Pickworth | February 4, 2007 6:37 PM #