Real Baking with Rose Levy Beranbaum: October 2007 Archives

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October 2007

A Tale of Three Eggs

My favorite speedy lunch fix is so easy and satisfying I decided to share it on the blog. What makes it special—moist, creamy, and delicious, is the addition of crème fraîche mentioned in a previous posting. I use only 1 large egg but of course the recipe can be increased. And of course fresh farm eggs from free range chickens will make it more of a treat than ever!

While heating the small non-stick frying pan on medium heat with a small amount of clarified butter (regular butter will do but lower the heat so it doesn’t burn), i break the egg into a small bowl and use one half of the shell to add a small amount of water—maybe a teaspoon. I dip my tiniest whisk into the crème fraîche and lift out a mound about the size of a walnut half. i plop it into the egg, add a sprinkling of salt, and freshly ground black pepper and whisk the mixture together until lightly mixed.

I scrape this egg mixture into the hot pan and let the eggs set for about 15 seconds. Then using the silicone spatula i draw the sides into the center, let them set for a few seconds and repeat this a few times until the eggs are softly scrambled.

Thinking about this recipe brought to mind one of my favorite articles I wrote for my former column in the L.A. Syndicate, several years ago.

TWO MEN’S EGGS

“The only thing my husband likes to eat,” said my Japanese friend Hiroko, one of the most dedicated and talented cooks I have ever met, “is steak or a soft boiled egg.” “What a pity with your great cooking skills,” I replied, “but at least that makes him easy to please.” “Not at all,” was her response. “In our many years of marriage, I have never achieved an egg that he has deemed perfect.” I looked at her carefully to see if she was kidding. No. She was quite serious. “The yolk must be entirely fluid while the white must be entirely set. The yolk must be precisely in the center, and when the egg is cut the short way, none of the yolk must run onto the white. Each time he tells me I have failed.” she ended sadly. This was beginning to sound like some sort of Medieval punishment.

It is a truism that the seemingly easiest tasks are often the most difficult to accomplish. This Zen like challenge made me vow someday to go for the impossible and with the help of instructions from Hiroko, make that egg. (Actually, Hiroko who is now back in Japan, writes me that this egg, called “half-cooked egg” is a famous recipe from a restaurant called Kyo-tei in Kyoto, a city renowned for its refinement in crafts and the quality of ingredients.)

Several years passed since first hearing about this special egg and I found myself repeating the story to another couple. The wife’s response: “That’s funny, Heinz cooks only one thing and it is also an egg which he has perfected. This struck me as much more equitable an arrangement. The egg is “coddled” in a microwave-safe ramekin so that it exactly fits an English muffin. Heinz cautioned me that it would probably be necessary to experiment a bit for exactly timing because microwaves vary but I must say it worked perfectly on the first try. The recipe couldn’t be more simple: Place a little piece of butter into a ramekin that is about the same diameter as an English muffin. Break 1 large cold egg into the ramekin. Microwave on high for 30 seconds. Slide the egg onto the toasted English muffin. That’s it. Except for a little refinement I prefer: if desired, carefully separate the egg to remove the choriza (the little ropey bit attaching the yolk to the white that never really sets on cooking). Then add both the white and unbroken yolk to the ramekin.

Now for Takao’s egg, essentially as given by Hiroko:

Use fresh egg, put in room temperature for more than 1 hour.
Put it in quietly boiling water, using slotted spoon.
Turn egg in boiling water for the first minute to make yolk centered.
Boil quietly 5 minutes from the beginning.
Put egg in cold water. Peel off shell and skin in the cold water.
Cut off a very thin slice from each pointed end so egg will sit evenly.
Holding egg in palm of hand, use a wide bladed knife to cut egg in half the short way, being careful not to cut hand. Quickly separate the two halves onto your palm, using knife blade to smooth yolk into place.

To quote Hiroko: “It is quite simple but difficult. Size of the eggs or room’s temperature change the condition. So try once or twice.”

From the kitchen of Rose on 10.27.07 at 3:29 PM in Savory Cooking
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My Most Magic Ingredient: Crème Fraîche

Most cooks have a favorite “secret” (behind the scenes) ingredient that enhances the deliciousness of many dishes. Mine is crème fraîche. I first discovered it in France in the kitchen of my dear friend Nadège when she was making “moules marinières” and stirred a healthy dollop to the steaming mussels. Crème fraîche is heavy cream which has an added culture, rendering it thick and slightly tangy and totally delicious. On my return to the U.S. I tried making my own using 1 tablespoon of buttermilk to 1 cup of heavy cream that had not been ultra-pasteurized, and allowing it to sit in a warm spot for about 12 hours. To my surprise it was also excellent. Nowadays specialty stores in the U.S. carry crème fraîche so I don’t bother to make my own. But on a recent trip to Normandy, I tasted their variety which was ivory in color and so dreamy in flavor it made me want to pack up and move there on the spot!

Just as I always have butter, flour, and eggs on hand I also always have a small container of crème fraîche. I use it in my scrambled eggs, in chicken paprikash (sour cream breaks down when heated, crème fraîche does not), a spoonful in potato salad, as a finishing swirl in soups, lightly sweetened and whipped to go along side pies or tarts, in ganache, and an ample amount in my mussel dish. The following recipe comes from my book “Rose’s Melting Pot.”

Mussels in Mustard Dill Cream

I was born, and spent the first five years of my life in Far Rockaway, Long Island, three blocks from the ocean. My first smells, the ones to which I will always respond with deep longing, were the summer perfume of honey suckle and the ever present salty ocean air. My first memories were ocean ones: sunny hot sand and sea shells; sand dark and patterned with raindrop holes; pea soup thick fog, sand-dripping castles, luminescent August jelly fish, deep green fun-to-pop seaweed, and long jetties encrusted with tangles of bearded mussels, black and shinny with foaming surf crashing against them. "We don't eat them," my mother explained. “But other people do.” I accepted this at the time, but now I am happily among the “other people.” For me, raw unadorned oysters and steamed mussels taste most like the way the ocean smells.

This special mussel dish was one Elliott and I both loved at a former neighborhood restaurant. I tried several times to recreate it but something was always missing. Finally I remembered a trick that a French chef once shared with me: a whisper of curry powder, so little as not to be detectable as curry flavor, can add dimension and mystery to certain sauces. Happily this was one and the missing element was provided. Word of warning: Wash the mussel shells well before steaming them; this sauce is so good guests will want to lick the sauce from them!

Serves: 4 as a main course

INGREDIENTS	MEASUREMENTS	WEIGHT
mussels	.	4 pounds	1Kg814
unsalted butter, divided	4 tablespoons	2 ounces	56 grams
2 shallots, minced	2 rounded tablespoons	0.75 ounce	22 grams
white onion, minced	2/3 cup	3 ounces	80 grams
dry white wine or dry Vermouth	2 liquid cups	.	.
2 bay leaves	.	.	.
crème fraîche or heavy cream	1 1/3 liquid cups	.	.
Dijon mustard	2 teaspoons	0.50 ounce	12 grams
dill, minced	1/4 cup	0.50 ounce	14 grams
freshly ground black pepper	4 grindings	.	.
curry powder	1/8 teaspoon	.	.

Rinse and scrub the mussels but don't beard them until right before cooking.

Cut half (2 tablespoons) of the butter into about ½-inch pieces and refrigerate. In a large non-corrosive saucepan, on medium heat, melt the remaining half of the butter and when bubbling, sauté the shallots and onion until transparent, about 2 minutes. Add the Vermouth and bay leaf, then the mussels. Steam covered about 5 minutes or just until open, stirring them once or twice and removing them to serving bowls one at a time, as they open, using tongs to drain any liquid back into the pot. Place them in an oven on the lowest possible setting to keep warm.

If sandy, strain the broth through cheesecloth and return it to the pot. Bring the broth to a boil and cook it at a rapid boil for about 5 minutes or until reduced to 1 1/3 cups. Add the cream, mustard, dill, pepper and curry. Bring it to a boil, whisking and cook at a slow boil for about 7 minutes, whisking occasionally until reduced to 1 1/3 cups. Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the cold butter, 1 piece at a time, adding the next piece after the first has melted.

Arrange the mussels in individual bowls, so that the open ends are pointing up and drizzle the sauce over the mussels.

If desired, serve with crusty French bread.

Pointers for Success

1. Buy the mussels the same day you are planning to cook them. Store them, refrigerated, in an open bag (or punch holes in the bag) or place it over ice.

2. Don't add salt; the mussel broth is quite salty on its own.

UNDERSTANDING

In the past, it has been necessary to soak the mussels in salt water or with a little cornmeal sprinkled on the top to rid them of their sand. Although this technique was successful, it also resulted in some loss of flavor. Fortunately, mussels these days are grown on special devices in less sandy areas, so presoaking them is not necessary.

P.S. The word for mussel in French is moule but the word for muscle is muscle! I confused the two many years ago after playing a vigorous game of tennis and announcing: “j’ai mal aux moules,” which was like saying that my mussels (as in seafood) were sore!

From the kitchen of Rose on 10.20.07 at 4:09 PM in Savory Cooking
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Vacation Abroad!

This Friday, October 19th, we'll be leaving for Europe until the end of the month. It's hard to leave New Jersey this beautiful time of year but Tuscany beckons and surely the harvest and the hills will be equally if not more beautiful. Also we'll get to see our friends' place Montecastelli which i've been hearing about for many years (see http://montecastelli.com) and reunite with some of the members of our former wine group.

Happily the best way to get to Florence is through Frankfurt Germany so we'll be spending the weekend with our nephew Alex and family.

Look for one posting each Saturday that I've done ahead so you won't miss me too much and more about the trip on our return along with photos.

And do continue to post and/or answer each other's baking questions. But as of now I will not be able to respond as I need to get ready for departure. I will have no e-mail access which saves me from myself but I fear I may be flooded with postings on my return so please be patient

Happy Harvest and Best Baking,
Rose

From the kitchen of Rose on 10.16.07 at 3:24 PM in Announcements
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Panko Has Arrived!

I’ve been enjoying panko for many years now—since my friend David Shamah who owned a restaurant (and is always up on the latest wonderful ingredient and equipment) shared some with me. Panko is a bread crumb, originally from Japan, that is made from the heart of the bread, i.e. no crust. It is also slightly larger and more even in size than the average bread crumb.

I discovered the importance of bread crumbs without crust when I studied strudel baking in Austria. It’s actually entirely logical: The crust of bread is browned to the optimal degree for flavor—more and it would become bitter. When you brown bread crumbs in oil to toast them lightly, any crust mixed in with the crumbs would become too dark.

I was delighted to discover that Progresso, the manufacturer of plain and seasoned bread crumbs that I used prior to panko, is now producing panko in both plain and seasoned variety. This is proof that panko awareness has reached the heartland and will now be available to the consumer as well as food service!

Here is a recipe for one of my favorite dishes into which bread crumbs have made their way by sheer chance. One evening I was eating an oven-crisped baguette with linguine and clams and some of the crispy crumbs fell into the pasta. Now I add them intentionally every time and I’ve since discovered that bread crumbs are often added to pasta dishes in Italy. I wondered if perhaps they discovered this the same way as I did!

Linguine & Clam Sauce with Bread Crumbs
Serves: 2 as a main course

INGREDIENTS	MEASUREMENTS	WEIGHT
2 dozen small (2-inch) little neck clams, rinsed and scrubbed	.	12 ounces	340 grams
extra virgin olive oil	scant 2 tablespoons	.	.
2 large cloves of garlic, very thinly sliced	2 tablespoons	0.5 ounce	14 grams
optional: hot pepper flakes	1/4 teaspoon	.	.
black pepper, freshly ground	a few grindings	.	.
no salt chicken stock	1 cup	.	.
bottled clam juice	1/2 cup	.	.
fresh flat leafed parsley, finely chopped	2 tablespoons	0.37 ounce	10 grams
linguini (such as #7 De Cecco)	.	8 ounces	227 grams
fresh basil, en chiffonade	about 1 tablespoon	.	.
panko or 2 day old baguette crumbs (page 00)	3 tablespoons	.	10 grams
extra virgin olive oil	1 teaspoon	.	.

Equipment: A 12 inch frying pan or wok

Do not salt the water for the linguine as the clam juice from the clams is very salty. (The bottled clam juice is lightly salted.)

1) Heat the oil over low heat in the 12 inch frying pan or wok. Add the garlic, hot pepper flakes and black pepper and fry on low heat for about 30 second or until the garlic softens. Do not allow it to brown.

2) Add the chicken stock, clam juice, parsley, and the clams. Cover and cook until the clams pop open widely (5 to 10 minutes). Throw out any that do not open. Remove the clams to bowls and keep them warm in a low oven. If any clam juices are in the bowls drain it back into the skillet.

3) Bring the pan juices to a boil and reduce until just about 1/2 cup remains. Remove the pan from the heat.

4) Boil the linguine in a large kettle with a generous quantity of unsalted water, just until only a little white appears in the center when a strand is cut (13 minutes if using the same brand and size).

5) While the linguine cooks, in a small skillet over low heat, sauté the bread crumbs in the olive oil, stirring often until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Set them aside.

6) Drain the pasta and add it to the 12 inch skillet. Cook on medium heat, tossing constantly until the linguini is well coated in the oil and juices and most of the liquid has been absorbed. The pasta will still be al dente but if a strand is cut it will no longer have any white uncooked part inside.

7) Add the linguine to the serving bowls and toss to mix in the clams. Garnish with the basil and sprinkle with the bread crumbs.

From the kitchen of Rose on 10.13.07 at 11:18 AM in Announcements
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Nushera's Rose

Nushera has shared this great technique for making roses. You can use marzipan, or gumpaste and the colors of your choice.

From the kitchen of Rose on 10.10.07 at 7:09 PM in Photos
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King of Cakes Does the Plaza Hotel!

When Ron Ben Israel came to live in this country he claims to have known nothing about cakes or cake decorating. He learned baking from The Cake Bibleand cake decorating from the high priestess of pastillage flowers Betty Van Norstrand.

When The Plaza planned their 100th birthday celebration it was Ron they chose to make this extraordinary replica of the hotel in cake!

Ron teaches regularly at the French Culinary Institute and occasionally at different locations around the country.

ONE OF RON'S MANY ASSISTANTS FOR THIS MASSIVE PROJECT

From the kitchen of Rose on 10.09.07 at 7:55 AM in Photos
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Clarification for Wedding Sheet Cakes in the Cake Bible

On the master chart for butter cakes on page 490, Level 6 the rectangular pans make only one layer.
also baking time should be reversed, i.e. 35 to 45 minutes for the 13 by 9 inch rectangle, 40 to 50 minutes for the 81 by 12 inch rectangle.

From the kitchen of Rose on 10.07.07 at 11:13 AM in Book Errata
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White Chocolate Chip Bread

Update: Now with photos!

I wanted to include this recipe in The Bread Bible but it necessitated a second visit to Club Med by my cousin Elizabeth who gave me the recipe after a prior visit. The original recipe was all in metrics (no problem there) but included “Puratos” as one of the ingredients. Luckily I had learned about this interesting product, which is a sourdough starter sprayed onto the yeast, when I went on a bakery tour in Switzerland, sponsored by Albert Uster several years ago. I replaced it with my usual old sourdough starter and was delighted by the results.

The white chocolate chips (and be sure to use the variety that contains cocoa butter such as Nestle’s) melt and form little spaces in the bread which become coated with the chocolate forming a lacy crumb. I love it for breakfast or tea time (not that my work schedule allows for it) lightly toasted with butter and strawberry jam or sprinkled with cinnamon with just enough sugar to separate it for even distribution which is equal volume

WHITE CHOCOLATE BREAD CINNAMON TOAST

Recently I had a delightful conversation with head baker Louis Felix at the Martinique Club Med, who invited me to come down and bake with him saying that wonderful French phrase “Il faut mettre le main à la pâte” (which translates to: it is necessary to feel the dough. By the way, I’ve heard people mispronounce it as paté which would be not a good idea at all!) They no longer use the “Puratose” and they add a little vital wheat gluten as their flour is softer. Other differences that may interest you is that they use instant yeast equal in weight to the salt which is about 4 times the amount I use so the dough rises much faster. Also, they use 60% water, about 25% chocolate chips, and bake the loaf free form at 180˚C which is about 350˚F.

My version uses the old sour dough starter for extra flavor and shelf life and a slower rise, again for more flavor but the flavor and sweetness of the chocolate makes this less necessary. If you eliminate the starter, decrease the salt by 1/8 teaspoon (total 6.2 grams).

Oven Temperature: 425°F., then 400°F. (tent after 15 minutes)
Baking Time: About 30 minutes

White Chocolate Bread Club Med
Makes: An 8 inch by 4 inch by 4 1/4 inch high loaf, 21 ounces / 600 grams

INGREDIENTS	MEASUREMENTS	WEIGHT
	*volume*	*ounces*	*grams*
Harvest King flour OR bread flour or unbleached all purpose and add 3/4 teaspoon vital wheat gluten	2 cups, dip and sweep	11 ounces	312 grams
instant yeast	3/4 to 1 teaspoon[1]	.	2.2 grams
water, room temperature (70 to 90¡ÆF.)	3/4 cup + 2 tablespoons	7.2 ounces	207 grams
old stiff sourdough starter, torn into small pieces	2 rounded tablespoons	1.2 ounce	35 grams
salt at 2%	about 1-1/4 teaspoons	.	6.7 grams
white chocolate chips	1/2 cup	3.3 ounces	95 grams

[1] Use 1 teaspoon yeast if room is below 80°F

Equipment: One 8 1/2 by 4 1/2 6 cup loaf pan, lightly greased

1) Make the dough
SPONGE
In a large bowl (mixer bowl if using a stand mixer), place 100 grams/3.5 ounces/2/3 cup of the flour, water, starter, and half the yeast. Whisk until very smooth to incorporate air, about 2 minutes. If using a bread machine scrape it into the container.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the remaining flour with the remaining yeast and dust it over the sponge to form a blanket (completely covering it) Cover the container or bowl tightly with plastic wrap and allow it to ferment for 1 hour or up to 4 hours at room temperature.

Bread Machine Method:

Mix for 3 minutes, rest for 20, mix 3 minutes while adding the salt, and knead 7 minutes.

Mixer Method:

With the dough hook mix on low speed (#2 Kitchen Aid) about 1 minute, until the flour is moistened to form a rough dough. Scrape down any bits of dough. Cover the top of the bowl with plastic wrap and allow the dough to rest for 20 minutes. Sprinkle on the salt and knead the dough on medium speed (#4 Kitchen Aid) for 7 minutes.

Both Methods:

The dough should be very elastic and smooth, and sticky enough to cling slightly to your fingers. If it is still very sticky knead in a little flour. If it is not at all sticky spray it with a little water and knead it. Add the white chocolate chips and knead another 3 minutes (The dough should weigh about 22.6 ounces/646grams---about 3 cups.)

2) Let the dough rise

Using an oiled spatula or dough scraper, scrape the dough into an 2 quart dough rising container or bowl, greased lightly with cooking spray or oil. Push down the dough and lightly spray or oil the top of the dough. Cover the container with a lid or plastic wrap. With a piece of tape, mark where double the height would be. Allow the dough to rise (ideally at 75°F to 80°F.) until doubled, 1 to 1 1/2 hours to about 6 cups. Using an oiled spatula or dough scraper, remove the dough to a floured counter and press down on it gently to form a rectangle. Give it 1 business letter turn, round the edges and return it to the bowl. Again, oil the surface, cover, mark where double the height will now be and allow it to rise for about 1 hour and 15 minutes. (It will fill it fuller than before because it is puffier with air—to 2 quarts).

3) Shape the dough and let it rise

Turn the dough onto a lightly floured counter and press it down to flatten it slightly. It will still be sticky but use only as much flour as absolutely necessary.

Gently press or lightly roll the dough with a rolling pin into a wide rectangle. (The long side of the dough should be facing towards you.) The exact size is not important at this point. Press the dough with your fingertips to deflate any large bubbles. Try to keep the chocolate chips from being exposed as they will caramelize if not covered by the dough. Place it in the prepared loaf pan (no more than 1/2 inch from the top of the pan—it was 1-inch from top).

Cover the shaped dough with a large container or oiled plastic wrap and allow it to rise until almost doubled and when pressed gently with a finger the depression very slowly fills in. The highest point will be 1 inch higher than the sides of the pan. (If desired, you can do the entire shaped rise overnight in the refrigerator. When ready to bake, allow it to finish rising, if necessary, at room temperature or if it has risen fully, allow it to come to room temperature for 30 minutes to an hour.).

4) Preheat the oven:

1 hour before baking, set a baking stone or baking sheet toward the bottom of the oven and preheat the oven to 425˚F.

5) Bake the bread

Mist the dough with water, quickly but gently set the baking sheet on the hot stone or hot baking sheet and toss 1/2 cup of ice cubes into the pan beneath. Immediately shut the door, reduce the heat to 400˚F, and bake 15 minutes. Turn the bread half way around, tent it with aluminum foil, and continue baking 15 to 20 or until the bread is golden brown and a skewer inserted in the middle comes out clean. (An instant read thermometer inserted into the center will read about 190°F.).

The Rose Ratio flour: 100% starter: 10.4% water: 66.6% yeast: 0.66% salt: 2% (of all flour including 23.1 grams in starter) chocolate is about 17% of the dough

From the kitchen of Rose on 10.06.07 at 2:18 PM in Bread
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This scratch baking blog, featuring baker and cookbook author Rose Levy Beranbaum, is an online journal of Rose’s baking adventures, cooking tips, and scratch recipes. Her cookbooks include Bread Bible, Pie and Pastry Bible, Rose’s Christmas Cookies, Passion for Chocolate and The Cake Bible.

October 2007