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March 2008

Day One of Photography for the New Book

I am keeping careful notes to share with you. I'm thrilled with the results of today's photo shoot. We are scheduled for 10 solid uninterrupted days of photography (including on my birthday--never will I have had so many birthday cakes!) after which I will be going to Minneapolis to visit General Mills/Gold Medal Flour to plan the DVD.

It looks like it's going to be near impossible to respond to any blog questions until after April 11 but there will be a posting from me every Saturday as usual.

And I'll check in as often as possible just so that I don't miss anything!


The Perfect Popover for Breakfast!

Are you all familiar with the wonderful mail order catalogue called Levenger’s? Recently I ordered a beautiful cherry work table for Hope and couldn’t wait to tell my father the cabinet maker that it came disassembled and I was able to put it together on my own except for the long 5 inch screws that needed heavy duty muscle to penetrate all the way through from the frame to the table top (thanks Elliott!).

In the process of purchasing the table I gave my e-mail address for confirmation. Since this include the words “cake bible,” Linda (who was delightfully helpful taking my order and arranging for delivery here in the woods) asked me what that meant. This led to a request for a breakfast quiche. I persuaded her to accept this fun and easy-to-make breakfast popover instead!

This is reprinted from my book The Bread Bible.

TIME SCHEDULE
Oven Temperature: 425°F.
Baking: 1 hour
Advance Preparation: at least 1 up to 24 hours ahead

Dutch Baby
This batter recipe makes for a beautiful, dramatic and very quick and easy breakfast. It is actually a giant crater-shaped popover, perfect accommodating a filling of sautéed caramelized apples, peaches, or fresh berries, and a billow of crème fraîche or whipped cream.

As is so often the case, it is the simplest things that require the most work to perfect. My goal was for a Dutch Baby that had crisp puffy sides but a tender, almost custardy bottom as opposed to an eggy/rubbery one.

The final result of many tests is this crunchiest, puffiest and most tender version, due to coating the flour with the butter before adding the milk, the addition of 2 extra egg whites and enough sugar to tenderize and flavor it.

For a “Baby Dutch Baby,” to serve 2, simply divide the recipe in half and use an 8-inch oven-proof skillet (preferably cast iron). Decrease the baking time at 350°F to 15 minutes and make the slits 10 minutes before the end of the baking time.
Serves: 4 to 6

Equipment: An 11 inch steel Dutch Baby pan or cast iron skillet (if using the cast iron skillet, lower the initial 425°F. to 400°F.)

The Batter

INGREDIENTS

MEASUREMENTS

WEIGHT

 

volume

ounces

grams

bleached, all purpose flour
(use only Gold Medal or Pillsbury)

 

1 cup

 

5 ounces

 

142 grams

salt

1/4 teaspoon

.

1.7 grams

sugar

3 tablespoons

1.3 ounces

37 grams

unsalted butter, melted

4 tablespoons, divided

2 ounces

56 grams

milk

1 liquid cup

8.5 ounces

242 grams

2 large eggs plus 2 large egg whites

5 fluid ounces

5.6 ounces
(weighed without shells)

160 grams

pure vanilla extract

1 teaspoon

.

.

1) Mix the batter
Food Processor Method

In a food processor with the metal blades, process the flour, salt, and sugar for a few seconds to mix them. Add 2 tablespoons of the melted butter and process until it resembles tiny peas, about 20 seconds. Scrape the sides of the container. With the motor on, add the milk, the eggs, and egg whites, and the vanilla and process for about 20 seconds or until the batter is smooth.

Hand Method
In a medium bowl, stir together the flour, the sugar and the salt. Add 2 tablespoons of the melted butter and use a fork to mash and mix it in until it resembles tiny peas. With a rotary beater or whisk, slowly beat in the Beat in the eggs and egg whites, one at a time, beating about one minute after each addition. Beat until the batter is fairly smooth (small lumps of butter remain visible). Beat in the vanilla extract.

Both Methods

2) Let the batter rest
Allow the batter to sit at room temperature for 1 hour before baking, or cover and refrigerate it for up to 24 hours. Allow it to come to room temperature and beat it lightly before baking.

3) Preheat the oven
At least 30 minutes before baking preheat the oven to 425°F. Have the rack towards the bottom level.

4) Prepare the pan
Remelt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter in the pan. Use a small pastry feather or brush, to coat the entire interior with the butter. Three minutes before baking time place the pan in the oven and heat it until the butter is hot and bubbling.

5) Fill the pan and bake the Dutch Baby
Remove the pan from the oven and pour the batter on top of the hot butter. Bake at 425°F. 15 minutes, lower the heat to 350°F and continue baking for 30 minutes or until puffed around the edges above the sides of the pan and golden brown.

6) Release the steam
15 minutes before the end of the baking time, open the oven door and quickly make 3 small slits in the center to release the steam and allow the center to dry more.

Apple Filling

INGREDIENTS

MEASUREMENTS

WEIGHT

 

volume

ounces

grams

2 pounds of Granny Smith or other tart apples (about 6 medium) peeled, cored & sliced 1/4 inch thick

6 cups

25 ounces

717 grams

unsalted butter

4 1/2 tablespoons

2.2 ounces

63 grams

freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 teaspoons

.

10 grams

light brown sugar

3 tablespoons

 1.5 ounces

40 grams

granulated sugar

3 tablespoons

1.3 ounces

38 grams

ground cinnamon

3/4 teaspoon

.

.

grated nutmeg (preferably freshly grated)

1/4 teaspoon

.

.

salt

1/4 plus 1/16 teaspoon

.

.

Optional garnish: crème fraîche or whipped cream 

1 cup

about 8 ounces

232 grams


Rose's World Cake

This amazingly beautiful and original cake was made by none other than our dear Hector!


My Rescue Pot!

Two of my favorite neighbors have just moved but in the process have left me a real treasure. One day when I was emptying the trash in the incinerator room I found a discarded cast iron Dutch oven that clearly had been used for many a camping trip. It was rusted in spots and had layers of encrusted baked on scuzz on others but i quickly scooped it up along with its equally dismal lid and brought it to Hope for a new life.
I followed the very good instructions on the Lodge website: www.lodgemfg.com to reseason it, first using steel wool to remove the rust. After the first treatment the pot was still not as black or smooth as I had hoped so remembering how I preheat my cast iron pots at 450ºF/232ºC for an hour before baking the "no knead bread" and how beautifully seasoned the pan becomes I decided to give it a second go. The results were spectacular as you can see for yourself!



Great Wedding Cake Class

Jan Kish is hands down the most talented cake decorator ever to have graduated from Cordon Rose, my former cooking school. Since that time, which is over 20 years ago, she opened Jan Kish - La petite Fleur, and has been producing breathtaking cakes which she ships all over the world. She has also appeared many times in Brides magazine, and on the Good Morning America Show and the Food Network.

For the first time, Jan will be sharing her exceptional skills in two 1-day 6 hour seminars Homespun Wedding Cakes -- at La Cuisine in Alexandria Virginia www.lacuisineus.com on Saturday, April 19, and in Columbus, Ohio www.jankish.com on Sunday, May 4. In this class, Jan will delve into the “anatomy of the wedding cake” Her objective is to transform you from novice to semi-professional in six hours (and perhaps a wee bit more). She will take you from imagination, to design, to creation, while demonstrating how the techniques you learn can then be applied to other celebration cakes.

This is an opportunity not to be missed.

Note: There will also be a second-class on Sunday, April 20 at La Cuisine on “How to Cater Your Own Wedding.”


On Vacation

I'll be skiing in Deer Valley until Tuesday, March 25, then back to New York and photography for the new book every day including the weekend until April 4, then away until April 10th doing DVD planning!

Postings are scheduled for every Saturday but please don't be surprised if other than that you don't hear from me very often during this time. Take good care of yourselves and each other.

Love,
Rose


My New Best Bread Friend

I love Maggie Glezer’s book Artisan Bread and have made many recipes from it but it wasn’t until I saw the photos and posting of the Tom Cat's Semolina Filone on the October 16, 2007 posting in www.breabasketcase.blogspot.com that I just had to try it. I’ve made it twice and will be making it again many times because it is so amazingly good. In fact, while it is baking the aroma is so heavenly it encourages one to breathe more deeply just to hold onto the marvelous scent more fully.

The second time I made this bread I only had enough durum flour left to make a three-quarter recipe and that is a lovely size too. I also find the dough more manageable at 73% hydration so have added 100 grams/ 3.5 ounces extra flour and still love the texture. Maggie recommends a combination of half bread flour half unbleached all purpose but Gold Medal Better for Bread flour aka Harvest King is about the same protein content and seems to work perfectly. Because I added extra flour I also increased the salt by 1/2 teaspoon to keep it at 2%. As Maggie points out, different flours (or methods of measuring rather than weighing) will alter the consistency of the dough so add only as much flour as will make you feel comfortable to handle the dough. This is my adaptation of Maggie’s wonderful recipe.

Preheat oven to 400°F.
Bake 50  to  minutes

                           Makes: A 16 x 6 by 3 inch high batard   (3/4 recipe=13 x 6 x 3)
POOLISH

INGREDIENTS

MEASUREMENTS

WEIGHT

 

volume

ounces

grams

water 110 to 115ºF

3/4 cup + 1   1/2 tablespoons

7 ounces

200 grams

instant yeast

1/16 teaspoon

.

.

Gold Medal Better for Bread flour

1 cup

5.5 ounces

155 grams

The night before: In a four cup glass measure stir together all the above ingredients until all the flour is moistened and it forms a smooth lump-free mixture. Cover tightly and allow it to ferment for about 8 hours or until the surface is filled with breaking bubbles and deep wrinkles are forming. (Note: On first try poolish was held for 12 hours at 60 in back room and then 4 hours at 80-82 in kitchen. It was just starting to wrinkle so could have been longer but worked perfectly.)

The poolish just beginning to wrinkle.

DOUGH

INGREDIENTS

MEASUREMENTS

WEIGHT

 

volume

ounces

grams

durum flour

1  2/3 cups

8.8 ounces

250 grams

Gold Medal Better for Bread flour

about 1 cup

5.3 ounces

150 grams

water, lukewarm

3/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons

7.5 ounces

205 grams

instant yeast

1/4 teaspoon

.

.

fermented poolish

see above

 

 

salt

2 teaspoons

.

11.5

sesame seeds

about 1/2 cup

2.5 ounces

72 grams

Equipment
In the bowl of a stand mixer whisk together the flours. Add the water and with the dough hook on low speed mix until combined. Cover and allow to rest (autolyse) for minimum 15 minutes, preferably 1 hour.

Stir the yeast into the poolish and allow it to sit for 5 minutes. Add the poolish to the dough and mix on low speed until the dough is very smooth and cleans the side of the bowl, about 5 minutes. Add the salt and continue mixing for 2 minutes to incorporate the salt evenly. The dough will weigh 33 ounces/940 grams and be about 1 quart. Scrape it into a 2 quart or larger container lightly coated with cooking spray. Cover tighty and allow it to rise until doubled to 2 quarts, 2 to 3 hours. Turn the dough 3 times at 20 minutes intervals and then leave it undisturbed until doubled.

Preheat the Oven
1 hour before baking preheat the oven to 400°F. Have the oven shelf at the lowest level and place a baking stone or baking sheet on it and a cast iron pan or sheet pan on the floor of the oven before preheating.

Pour the sesame seeds onto a sheet pan. Shape the couche into a trough to support the loaf. (No need to flour the couche.)

Shape the dough on a lightly floured counter. Use a gentle touch to maintain as many air bubbles as possible. First round it lightly, cover and allow it to relax for 15 minutes. Then shape it into a torpedo as follows: Place it skin side down. Bring the top edge of the dough over all the way to the work surface and use your thumbs to seal it all the way along the edge, pushing back to form a tight cylinder.  Roll the dough over so that the seam falls at the bottom in the middle of the dough. Use the palms of your hands to roll the dough gently back and forth, allowing it to elongate to 12 to 14 inches.  Exert more pressure on the two ends to form a pointed shape.

Lift the dough onto the sheet pan and roll it to encrust it all over with the sesame seeds. If necessary, spritz the dough with water to help them adhere. Set the dough, seam side up, into the couche. (Use a retainer bar or pan set against one side of the folded couche to keep it from spreading.) Cover it lightly with the couche or plastic wrap and allow it to proof until when pressed lightly with a finger tip the depression fills in slowly--about 1 hour. It will grow to about 18 inches in length.

Use the couche to flip it onto a piece of parchment, seam-side-down.  Straighten the dough and use a straight-edged razor blade to make a 1/2 inch deep slash along the top of the dough. Mist the dough with water, quickly but gently slide it, still on the parchment onto the hot stone or hot baking sheet and toss 1/2 cup of ice cubes into the pan beneath. Immediately shut the door and bake 45 to 55 minutes, turning the bread half way around after the first 20 minutes of baking, until deep golden. (An instant read thermometer inserted into the center will read about 200°F.)

Set the loaf on a wire rack and allow it to cool completely, top-side-up.



Perfectly Grilled Steak without a Grill

I get my steak from Pino on Sullivan Street. I have been buying meat from him for 40 years—since the time he was working for his uncle Tony at Florence Meat Market. I was planning a vocation devoted to food and appreciated deeply the respect with which he handled the different cuts of meat, wrapping them carefully in butcher’s wax paper as tenderly as if they were a newborn child.

Now he is owner of his own Pino Prime Meats with his two sons Sal (who came up with the fantastic idea of aged prime steak ground for hamburgers) and Leo often at his side though Leo is still in school so only comes in during school holidays. Gustavo, his right hand man, is also very knowledgeable and exceptionally kind and loyal. I feel like so much a part of the family that one day when Pino’s wife was visiting and everyone in the shop was speaking Sicilian Italian I piped up in my limited accented version: anche io, sono Siciliana (I too am a Sicilian). Everyone laughed. I do have a close cousin who is Sicilian—Elizabeth Granatelli—whom I call la principessa as there is a street named after her family in Palermo. And then of course there is my sister/baker Angelica Pulvirenti who grew up in my favorite town in Sicily—Ragusa.


Back to the steak which has prompted this posting. First of all, my favorite is the rib steak (as Pino calls it rrrrrib steak). It is aged for one month and I ask him to cut it two inches thick as we like rare. In fact, if I’m grilling it outdoors I ask for 2 1/2 inches. Even 2 inches is enough for two meals for the two of us. In recent years I’ve been making steak only outdoors on the charcoal grill but as the meat is so wonderful I decided to try a new technique in my NY city apartment. The goal was to get a crunch deeply brown exterior and rare interior without smoking up the whole apartment. And it worked perfectly. Here’s how:

As soon as you come home with the steak salt and pepper it all over (i use about 1 1/2 teaspoons of salt. Refrigerate it until 1 hour before cooking.

Preheat the oven to 500°F/260°C for a minimum of 45 minutes. If you have an oven stone all the better.

About 5 minutes before cooking, preheat a large cast iron skillet until smoking hot (an infra-red thermometer will read about 535°F/279°C. Place the steak in the skillet and cook for 3 minutes or until deeply browned. Fold a paper towel into a small square and with tongs absorb any of the fat that is exuding. Turn the steak over and set the skillet in the oven (on the stone). Continue cooking for about 8 to 10 minutes or until an instant read thermometer registers no lower than 105°F/40°C. and no higher than 115°F./46°C. if you like rare, higher if you like it more cooked. Different parts of the meat will register different temperatures so I like to give a range. After a few minutes in the oven use the tongs to dab out the fat. Do this as necessary to prevent smoking.

Remove the steak to a rack to keep the exterior crunchy and allow it to sit for 10 minutes before carving. Set it on a carving board. There will be blood (sorry Daniel Day-Lewis--meat juices)!



Production of "Rose's Heavenly Cakes"

Each book (and there have been eight before this one!) my husband says: “write down the production process so you will know what to expect for the next one.” And each time I’m far too busy participating in the production to do it. But now I’m going to do it for YOU. So if you’re interested in following the progress, put a check mark in the box Let me know if someone adds a comment and you will be alerted to new comments (mine will be in pink). That way those who are not interested won’t be bothered with new postings

Phase One May 2007
I should have started this early because already I’ve forgotten how many times I resubmitted the manuscript on disc, each one labeled final! My guess is three. I kept tweaking and adding.

Phase Two September 2007
Pam Chirls, my editor went through the entire manuscript and returned it to me via e-mail with tons of queries and suggestions which I addressed directly on the computer. This is a first for me as I didn’t know how to edit this way but was given an in person lesson by Pam’s terrific assistant Christine Di Como. Apparently some authors and editors prefer to do the editing on hard copy but loving technology as i do, I took to it like a duck to water! Pam and I met twice to go over the changes and Christine then went through the entire manuscript, cleaning up the queries and responses and forwarded the new “final” to Ava Wilder in production.

Meantime, we had several meetings with out “art team” which included photographer Ben Fink, Stylist Liz Duffy, and designer Alison Lew of Vertigo. And Woody and I continued to bake and retest and review the recipes occasionally finding some little thing to improve or change. We also are continuing to experiment and try out techniques or queries that come through from the blog.

Phase Three February 2008
Ava sent me many initial queries concerning my design preferences and consistency questions, such as: “ vs. inches, 9 x 5 inch pan vs 9 by 5 inch, the order of the chapters, and many other design elements. (I had already submitted a style sheet of my preferences.)

Next the manuscript will go to copy editor Deborah Weiss Geline whom I worked with many years ago at William Morrow. She is wonderfully detail-oriented and knows my work very well. In fact, she has baked from The Cake Bible and I even made her wedding cake! Since that time she has been an editor at Artisan Books and I’m most fortunate that she is now working free lance so that she can be the copy editor for my upcoming book.

I’ll be receiving a sample section early March and the majority of it mid-April (at which time you may not be hearing much from me on this blog as it will be an intense 8 weeks doing photography, copy editing, and producing the DVD all at the same time)!

Phase 4 March 2008

Instead of sending me the copy editing sample Ava brought it to the production meeting with Alison, Pam, and Rebecca (her new assistant). I brought a chocolate swirl coffee cake from the upcoming book as I think it’s fun for everyone to become acquainted with the actual cakes as we discuss how they will be photographed and written about.

We had an intense over two hour discussion about the design of the book which included not just appearance but also style of the text such as in the chart headers—do we need them or not and if so should the headers be volume and weight or measure and weight. i voted for keeping the headers because in the American system of weights and measures ounces applies both to fluid ounces (measure) and weight ounces which can be very confusing. these decisions may seem inconsequential but they add up to making a book user friendly and approachable or not! The detail in a four color book (where there is a photo on just about every page) is astonishingly staggering.

My goal is to have all the information needed and placed where it is needed but at the same time be as clear and straightforward as possible with nothing in the way of effortless comprehension and enjoyment. This is not easy to come by—take my word for it. By the time I got home I felt as exhausted and fragmented as my computer which was being replaced that night. Five minutes later my friend and computer guru Rob Ruotolo arrived and we were up til 4 am installing and working out the glitches. I stayed up another hour and then spent the following day working out more glitches such as having lost the audio from my monitor. After a long phone conversation with Rob we discovered that during the process of moving the monitor two of the plug had worked their way out. (This happens every time so I spent several more hours writing up all I had learned of the procedure for the next time.) When my computer is down I feel like the center of my life has dropped out. (This is because it has!)

Then back to the manuscript—this time a long phone conversation with Ava to go through the sample editing queries which will determine the consistency of the copy editor’s work, for example should the walnuts that will be chopped be entered as walnuts, coarsely chopped in the chart or as walnut halves and then have the chopping part in the instructions after the toasting which is the way chose. (It’s shocking to see how inconsistent one’s brain is—I managed to alternate between the two ways of listing them, sometimes even listing them only as “walnuts” and this is only one example of ingredient or technique consistency throughout the manuscript.) We also agonized over whether to refer to the little specks inside the vanilla bean as grains or seeds. You often see vanilla bean on ice cream containers but that's because they are using the pod ground up which is not as aromatic as the actuall seeds or grains contained in the bod aka bean (yikes!). using the correct terminology is often not an entirely viable solution if no one recognizes what it is!

My old friend and copy editor Debbie did a brilliant job making suggestions that improve graceful expression and clarity without changing ‘my voice.’ And Ava agreed that our meeting of the day before was intense to the point of exhaustion. What a kindred spirit I have found in her. I’ve never before had the benefit of a production editor who was involved with the physical look of the book in addition to the text and now I see that the two are inextricably connected. This is so exciting. What could be better than enjoying and respecting the people with whom one will work so closely for a long period of time. I can see that this team of gifted professionals is going to breathe new life into this book and I know that I am going to agonize, exult and be totally wrapped up in this process which ultimately will produce the book of my dreams.
Phase 5 April 2008
Photography
This posting is getting so long and I have some photos to go with the new entry so I will start it as a new posting in a few days.
Phase 6 May 2008 Copy Editing
Posted May 10, 2008


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