The Perfect Popover for Breakfast!: Real Baking with Rose Levy Beranbaum

Are you all familiar with the wonderful mail order catalogue called Levenger’s? Recently I ordered a beautiful cherry work table for Hope and couldn’t wait to tell my father the cabinet maker that it came disassembled and I was able to put it together on my own except for the long 5 inch screws that needed heavy duty muscle to penetrate all the way through from the frame to the table top (thanks Elliott!).

In the process of purchasing the table I gave my e-mail address for confirmation. Since this include the words “cake bible,” Linda (who was delightfully helpful taking my order and arranging for delivery here in the woods) asked me what that meant. This led to a request for a breakfast quiche. I persuaded her to accept this fun and easy-to-make breakfast popover instead!

This is reprinted from my book The Bread Bible.

TIME SCHEDULE
Oven Temperature: 425°F.
Baking: 1 hour
Advance Preparation: at least 1 up to 24 hours ahead

Dutch Baby
This batter recipe makes for a beautiful, dramatic and very quick and easy breakfast. It is actually a giant crater-shaped popover, perfect accommodating a filling of sautéed caramelized apples, peaches, or fresh berries, and a billow of crème fraîche or whipped cream.

As is so often the case, it is the simplest things that require the most work to perfect. My goal was for a Dutch Baby that had crisp puffy sides but a tender, almost custardy bottom as opposed to an eggy/rubbery one.

The final result of many tests is this crunchiest, puffiest and most tender version, due to coating the flour with the butter before adding the milk, the addition of 2 extra egg whites and enough sugar to tenderize and flavor it.

For a “Baby Dutch Baby,” to serve 2, simply divide the recipe in half and use an 8-inch oven-proof skillet (preferably cast iron). Decrease the baking time at 350°F to 15 minutes and make the slits 10 minutes before the end of the baking time.
Serves: 4 to 6

Equipment: An 11 inch steel Dutch Baby pan or cast iron skillet (if using the cast iron skillet, lower the initial 425°F. to 400°F.)

The Batter

INGREDIENTS	MEASUREMENTS	WEIGHT
	*volume*	*ounces*	*grams*
bleached, all purpose flour (use only Gold Medal or Pillsbury)	1 cup	5 ounces	142 grams
salt	1/4 teaspoon	.	1.7 grams
sugar	3 tablespoons	1.3 ounces	37 grams
unsalted butter, melted	4 tablespoons, divided	2 ounces	56 grams
milk	1 liquid cup	8.5 ounces	242 grams
2 large eggs plus 2 large egg whites	5 fluid ounces	5.6 ounces (weighed without shells)	160 grams
pure vanilla extract	1 teaspoon	.	.

1) Mix the batter
Food Processor Method
In a food processor with the metal blades, process the flour, salt, and sugar for a few seconds to mix them. Add 2 tablespoons of the melted butter and process until it resembles tiny peas, about 20 seconds. Scrape the sides of the container. With the motor on, add the milk, the eggs, and egg whites, and the vanilla and process for about 20 seconds or until the batter is smooth.

Hand Method
In a medium bowl, stir together the flour, the sugar and the salt. Add 2 tablespoons of the melted butter and use a fork to mash and mix it in until it resembles tiny peas. With a rotary beater or whisk, slowly beat in the Beat in the eggs and egg whites, one at a time, beating about one minute after each addition. Beat until the batter is fairly smooth (small lumps of butter remain visible). Beat in the vanilla extract.

Both Methods

2) Let the batter rest
Allow the batter to sit at room temperature for 1 hour before baking, or cover and refrigerate it for up to 24 hours. Allow it to come to room temperature and beat it lightly before baking.

3) Preheat the oven
At least 30 minutes before baking preheat the oven to 425°F. Have the rack towards the bottom level.

4) Prepare the pan
Remelt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter in the pan. Use a small pastry feather or brush, to coat the entire interior with the butter. Three minutes before baking time place the pan in the oven and heat it until the butter is hot and bubbling.

5) Fill the pan and bake the Dutch Baby
Remove the pan from the oven and pour the batter on top of the hot butter. Bake at 425°F. 15 minutes, lower the heat to 350°F and continue baking for 30 minutes or until puffed around the edges above the sides of the pan and golden brown.

6) Release the steam
15 minutes before the end of the baking time, open the oven door and quickly make 3 small slits in the center to release the steam and allow the center to dry more.

Apple Filling

INGREDIENTS	MEASUREMENTS	WEIGHT
	*volume*	*ounces*	*grams*
2 pounds of Granny Smith or other tart apples (about 6 medium) peeled, cored & sliced 1/4 inch thick	6 cups	25 ounces	717 grams
unsalted butter	4 1/2 tablespoons	2.2 ounces	63 grams
freshly squeezed lemon juice	2 teaspoons	.	10 grams
light brown sugar	3 tablespoons	1.5 ounces	40 grams
granulated sugar	3 tablespoons	1.3 ounces	38 grams
ground cinnamon	3/4 teaspoon	.	.
grated nutmeg (preferably freshly grated)	1/4 teaspoon	.	.
salt	1/4 plus 1/16 teaspoon	.	.
Optional garnish: crème fraîche or whipped cream	1 cup	about 8 ounces	232 grams

From the kitchen of Rose on 03.29.08 at 11:04 AM in Bread

Comments

I saw a recipe for Swedish saffron bread last year that I took note of. It's here. (I saw it as an entry in a saffron contest. I ended up making malloreddus instead.)

Reply to this Posted by: Kitt | November 23, 2008 7:44 PM #

sorry,i've never heard of the bread. there are a world of breads out there as yet untapped--that's the good news!

Reply to this Posted by: rose levy beranbaum | November 23, 2008 5:55 PM #

I was looking for a recipe that used saffron and cardamom and found a number of listings for Saint Lucia bread. I figured that if anyone had a great recipe for this bread it would be Rose. But I could not find it in any of her books. I suspect that it may be known by another name. Is that the case or is there another reason that Rose did not consider this recipe?

Reply to this Posted by: Sam Morgan | November 23, 2008 5:54 PM #

linda, do get back to us if you find the solution to the acubake oven. this is most distressing. in your place i would purchase a countertop convection/microwave!

Reply to this Posted by: Rose Levy Beranbaum | May 17, 2008 2:02 PM #

Thanks so much Tammy.

Reply to this Posted by: LuLu | April 11, 2008 4:05 PM #

Javajunkie, in the Bread Bible, Rose fills the Dutch baby after it has cooked.

Rose sautes the apples with all other apple filling ingredients for 12-15 minutes while the dutch baby is baking. (after 5 minutes, the apples will exude liquid. raise the heat slightly until it evaporates, then lower the heat to medium and cook until the slices are glazed and tender when pierced with a sharp knife)

Reply to this Posted by: Tammy | April 11, 2008 3:45 PM #

I "googled" apple Dutch baby and in those recipes the apples are cooked in the pan with the other filling ingredients (brown sugar, butter...)until soft and then the pancake mixture is poured over top of it and the entire pan goes in the oven. I'm not sure if that's how you do it with this recipe though.

Reply to this Posted by: LuLu | April 11, 2008 2:35 PM #

There is filling, anonymous. The ingredients are listed above, but not the method for prepping them. My assumption would be that you cook the apples separately in a saucepan with the other filling ingredients (except the creme fraiche) until they are soft. When you serve the dutch baby, you spoon the filling into the middle, and put a dollop of creme on top.

Reply to this Posted by: Kitt | April 11, 2008 1:51 PM #

what filling are you talking about? there is no filling!

Reply to this Posted by: Anonymous | April 11, 2008 1:26 PM #

Two questions here, for the filling, but no one has responded - asking a third time. The procedure for the filling was not included...I presume this was an omission?

Reply to this Posted by: Javajunkie | April 11, 2008 12:59 PM #

How do you add the filling?

Reply to this Posted by: LuLu | April 8, 2008 10:14 PM #

Making Dutch Babies was one of my greatest joys. After I replaced my 30 year old double oven with a new Whirlpool with accubake system, I have not been able to have the puff pancakes rise. I am pretty sure it is due to the tight oven, with no steam escape. I can still make them at our cabin that has a gas range. There is no way to prop open the new oven door a hair, either, as that would probably work. The oven turns off if the door is open even the slight amount.

Just thought others might like to know this if they have trouble getting their Dutch Baby to rise!

My favorite way to serve them, was to take a fresh lemon wedge and give a drizzle, then sprinkle with a generous amount of powdered sugar. Yummy. The lemon really added to the buttery crisp crust, and soft interior.

I will try this new recipe, Rose, with the extra egg whites and the addition of sugar. Thanks for your great site.

Linda

Reply to this Posted by: Linda | April 8, 2008 7:25 PM #

Do you just spoon the filling on top?

Reply to this Posted by: Macomb | April 8, 2008 3:40 PM #

bostonscott...

bleached flour is necessary in this recipe because of the high amount of fat in it (from the butter, milk, and eggs). Unbleached flour causes the emulsification of the fat to break down. The result would be a greasy Dutch Baby with a heavy texture.

This is the same reason why almost all cake recipes call for bleached flour.

If you do not have access to bleached flour, google "Kate's flour" to make your own alternative to bleached flour that acts like bleached flour but isn't...

Reply to this Posted by: Roxanne | April 1, 2008 2:37 PM #

Rose,

Thank you so much. I will try this recipe. I enjoyed working with you. I hope to talk with you again real soon.

Linda Leslie
Transportation Specialist
Levenger

Reply to this Posted by: Linda Leslie | March 31, 2008 8:59 AM #

Linda Leslie
Transprotation Specialist
Levenger

Hi BostonScott...I am an American in Falkirk. I too have the problem with bleached/unbleached flour...as over here, most the flour available is unbleached. (I think Dove's Farm Pasta flour is supposed to be a good substitute.) However, I am pretty sure that in the states, it is the reverse. Since most flour there is bleached it should be fairly easy to get your hands on. Also, if you search this blog, there are some really good, in depth discussions on the varieties of flour and their properties. Good luck with your baking. I am off to make a huge popover for family breakfast...yummy!

Reply to this Posted by: Teresa Macpherson | March 30, 2008 2:53 AM #

Oops.....I meant to say what will happen if I use un-bleached since I don't have bleached always.....

Reply to this Posted by: bostonscott | March 29, 2008 12:24 PM #

Why is BLEACHED flour necessary? I feel like most of the time around here we use un-bleached.

What will happen if I use un-bleached, since sometimes I don't have un-bleached (though 1 cup is doable)....

Reply to this Posted by: bostonscott | March 29, 2008 12:22 PM #

I love Levenger stuff. Good for you on the solo assembly. And you probably made Linda's day.

That recipe sounds a lot like a German pancake! I make mine in my great-grandmother's cast-iron skillet (which was passed down to me as "Nana's German pancake pan"). Half-cup flour, half-cup milk, 3 beaten eggs, poured into a well-buttered cold skillet and cooked at 400 for 20 minutes.

I'll try adding some vanilla and sugar next time. I never thought of mine as being not tender, so I'm interested to see what this does.

Never seen or heard of a Dutch Baby pan. Off to Google!

Reply to this Posted by: Kitt | March 29, 2008 12:16 PM #

Real Baking with Rose Levy Beranbaum

This scratch baking blog, featuring baker and cookbook author Rose Levy Beranbaum, is an online journal of Rose’s baking adventures, cooking tips, and scratch recipes. Her cookbooks include Bread Bible, Pie and Pastry Bible, Rose’s Christmas Cookies, Passion for Chocolate and The Cake Bible.