The Cake Bible 20 Years Ago

Jun 03, 2008 | From the kitchen of Rose in Photos

It doesn't get much better than this in the wish fullfillment department!

Our Blog Gets High Rating

Jun 03, 2008 | From the kitchen of Rose in Announcements

WIKIO has contacted us that our blog is number 58 out of thousands of food blogs! we now have a dynamic link on the blog at the very bottom of the right hand side under "sites i like"(and I do indeed like this one)! It will update on a daily basis.

House in Hope in Spring

Jun 04, 2008 | From the kitchen of Rose in Photos

I always hate to leave when the rhododendrun is in full bloom.

We have tons of irises I brought from the old house in Hainsburgh. (Yes we just moved a little down the alphabet!) Unfortunately only the yellow ones seem to survive with a very few purple ones. The gorgeous scarlet ones were probably too delicious for the chipmunks and ground hogs to resist.

The vase is an antique my father gave me belonging to an old man, John Zerkelese, who worked in his shop many years ago.

Question

Jun 05, 2008 | From the kitchen of Rose in Happenings

As I'm sure you've all noticed, many improvements have been made to our blog over the mast week making it more functional and more attractive.

Now that we have the option to respond to a question without having to scroll down to the bottom of the thread, would you prefer having the comments appear most recent ones first instead of last?

Please cast your vote!

Manhattan Milk Madness

Jun 07, 2008 | From the kitchen of Rose in Announcements

Growing up as the daughter of a dentist (my mother) I was required to drink 4 glasses of milk a day. My mother told me that when I was an adult I’d only require 2 and I longed for that day. But I have to admit I have not been drinking those 2 glasses partially because as a baker I assumed I was getting plenty of calcium from other more interesting sources. Then I discovered the joys of homemade cappuccino and the incredibly wonderful milk from the Manhattan Milk Co. www.manhattanmilk.com.

Ever in search for the perfect foam I found it in the Manhattan Milk skimmed variety. Their milk, distributed in the greater NY area, comes from Amish farms and is probably the most delicious milk I’ve ever tasted. Even the skim is wonderful. But I’ve also started ordering a quart of the whole milk for my cereal.

The ads these days for both Total cereal and milk claim that people who eat and drink them are slimmer. This could be as they are so satisfying they prevent that empty stomach feeling longer than many other foods. I also discovered that fresh bing cherries are a wonderful accompaniment to Total whole wheat cereal with Manhattan whole milk.

I have to credit my friend Gary Cheong who is manager of the boutique Batch, the offshoot of Pichet Ong’s delightful restaurant Pong. I was passing by as Gary was leaving for an errand and he whisked me right into Batch to try the milk he had recently discovered. I was hooked.

You can order the milk on line but there is a minimum order so you may want to purchase it from Batch and get to taste some of their terrific desserts. Most recently their Passion Rice Pudding has been touted in the press and I can't wait to try it.

My mother would be so pleased I am now drinking close to the milk quota she had long ago suggested. And I am most grateful to her for my enviable bone density!

James Beard Foundation Awards 2008

Jun 09, 2008 | From the kitchen of Rose in Announcements

A Bird's Eye View

Every year I say this is the last time I’m covering the awards and every year I’m drawn back again to this smorgasbord/kaleidoscope Oscars of the food world. And collide is the operative word. Imagine first sitting for three hours through the award ceremony until you’re absolutely starving, and then eating your way through little plates of mostly delicious food offered by some of your favorite chefs elbow to elbow with some of your favorite friends and colleagues and hoards of people caught up in a feeding frenzy, not noticing if they’ve stepped on your foot, banged their shoulder bag into your side, or spilled your food or drink all over you.

The most painful part is not being able to finish a single conversation before being interrupted by another favorite person you never get to see during the rest of the year. Talk about too much of a good thing.

The award ceremony was beautifully orchestrated so that really I didn’t mind sitting for 3 hours. Kim Cattrall and Bobby Flay were wonderful co-hosts. I’ve known Bobby for many years and have loved his food at Mesa Grill and his generosity sending out delicious little extras whenever he knew I was there. Kim was an unusual but perfect choice as co-host because she bridged the gap between professional chef and this year’s theme “Artisanal America” and the perennial underlying theme of pleasure. So of course there was a cute flirtation between the two of them not to mention a slew of suggestive innuendoes that kept everyone awake. It reminded me of a few years ago when going to a new physician for an annual checkup and his asking me the routing question: “what is your profession?” My answer—it just popped out—was “I’m in the pleasure giving business.” He raised his eyebrows—perhaps in no small part because he is a colleague of my husband’s and was not expecting such a response from his wife. But I think the reason I expressed it that way was because Elliott told me he is a great appreciator of wine so I thought he would understand. When I explained he did indeed.

You can see all the award winners on the site: www.jamesbeardfoundation.com
so I won’t list all the winners but I would like to highlight two of my favorites: Paula Wolfort gave a most delightful and heartfelt acceptance speech when her first book Paula Wolfert’s Couscous and Other Good Food from Morocco was inducted into the Cookbook Hall of Fame. Paula was one of my greatest inspirations at the beginning of my writing career and she remains one of my favorite people. It was a special delight to meet her lovely daughter Leila for the first time.

Terry Theise, perhaps my most articulate and cleverest of friends for the past 12 years and in good part responsible for my passion for Riesling, especially German Riesling, won the Outstanding Wine and Spirits Professional Award. Coincidentally, his wife Odessa Piper, a great supporter of sustainable agriculture and artisanal producers, and also a Beard Award Winner, served as co-chair of the Awards Gala Reception.
There were 32 chefs represented and I tasted perhaps 30 of the dishes. Sadly, I only had the opportunity to photograph one as the hungry surging crowds soon made it impossible to pause to frame a shot, but fortunately it was my favorite of all the things tasted—Melissa Kelly’s squash blossoms stuffed with handmade sheep’s milk ricotta.

I also adored Nora Pouillon’s incredibly creamy and flavorful rhubarb gelato and Scott Peacock’s amazingly exquisite strawberry preserves. Alexandra Guarnaschelli’s little pastry discs of sweet/savory salt-cured local foie gras with warm strawberry-black pepper jam and arugula were brilliantly original and meltingly delicious. I’ve known her since she was in high school and I’m so proud of what a great chef she has become.

It’s not easy to balance plates and forks and handbags amidst people’s elbows but I did manage to have an excellent glass of Phelps Pinot—one of my favorite producers.

Maybe I’ll have to return next year after all. But I’ll be sure to wear a waterproof outfit with spurs on the sides and maybe on the back as well. And now I’d better leave or I’ll miss my plane to Minnesota!

Away Til June 16

Jun 09, 2008 | From the kitchen of Rose in Announcements

Just wanted to remind you all that I'll be in MN at Gold Medal Flour making the video for the upcoming book.

Will try to do a short posting on the Beard Awards last night before I go or after I land but won't have much time to visit the blog this week.

I would say my usual happy baking but if you live in NY or the environs, this is not the day to turn on the oven!

Best,

Rose

Speja Apricot Raisin & Walnut Bread

Jun 14, 2008 | From the kitchen of Rose in Bread

This is the bread that I fell in love with in Stockholm from the award winning book Riddarbageriets Bröd By John Sörbergs.

I am offering both my version and the original for comparison. The original uses two starters, a white wheat starter and a rye starter. Since I only have a white wheat starter I calculated the amount of rye in what I assume to be a liquid starter and added that to the over-all flour for the dough. I substituted instant yeast for the fresh yeast and increased the percentage slightly as I’m using old starter rather than active starter. I increased the hydration from 66 percent to 70.5% because I have come to prefer a lighter moister crumb. And I shaped the dough into a torpedo/batarde rather than a round boule and slice it on the diagonal but if you prefer you can shape it into a boule.

I’ve found that softening stiff starter in the water for a minimum of 30 minutes helps it to integrate more evenly throughout the crumb.

The starter gives this bread extra moistness and depth of flavor. If you don’t have one you can substitute old dough from the last batch of bread. It keeps at room temperature for about 6 hours refrigerated for 48 hours, or frozen for about 3 months. If you omit the starter and the old dough you’ll need to use 1/8 plus 1/16 teaspoon less salt.

This bread is wonderful with cheese including blue cheese or just with butter.

Continue reading "Speja Apricot Raisin & Walnut Bread" »

Did You Know?

Jun 21, 2008 | From the kitchen of Rose in Notes

There is a special technique used in France to mellow the sharpness of fresh garlic. I discovered it years ago in one of Roger Vergé’s books and have used it ever since when adding raw garlic to a dish. It maintains the wonderful garlic flavor but tames the bite just a bit.

You don’t have to peel the garlic cloves because the peel slips off easily after boiling.

Place the garlic in a small saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring it to a boil and drain it immediately. Repeat three to 5 times and then use it to mince or slice into your recipe. Here is my favorite one for Casear salad dressing that I’ve been in the process of perfecting for years.

I discovered the beautiful and highly functional granite mortar and pestle when visiting my friend Anna Schwartz in Melbourne Australia. She offered to ship me one but then discovered that it was available in a terrific little Thai store in Chinatown not far from where I live. Elliott had to take me by car because it was too heavy to carry very far! It was relatively inexpensive—around $35 and will last several life-times.

The store will ship so if so inclined here’s the contact info.

888-618-THAI
www.importfood.com/mortarpestle.html

If you don’t have a mortar and pestle, mince the garlic and anchovies by hand.

Continue reading "Did You Know?" »

Book Production Phase 9 Online Demo Production & Pre Photography Meeting

Jun 23, 2008 | From the kitchen of Rose in Special Stories

It would not be an exaggeration to say that the production of the online video was the most intense 3 days of my life. This was in good part because I wanted to make the most of this golden opportunity to show what is impossible to describe as effectively in any other medium. After spending months in advance planning of techniques, recipes, ingredients, and equipment, I compiled a vastly over-ambitious list of what I wanted to present. Christina Zwicky who orchestrated the whole production encouraged me to go for it and amazingly we didn’t have to cut much. None of what we cut was essential, for example, the angel food cake which was already taped at the NYU demo and available through the blog thanks to Hector.

We had the most wonderful crew, both for the production itself and for makeup, food prep and styling, and equipment organization. Melissa Martin is a London trained makeup artist and she took me at my word that I wanted to look like me and not some made-up Hollywood Star. Nancy who was in charge of getting all the equipment set up for each take also sat in on the filming and as a knowledgeable food person she caught every little thing that didn’t precisely reflect what she knew I wanted to convey. She started off by assuring me that she was well-organized and had to be as a mother of four children she home-schools! She lives 60 miles from General Mills and needed to leave her home at 5 a.m. each day but never looked anything but calm and alert.

But I couldn’t have carried off the whole thing without Woody who lives not far from General Mills. He is so familiar with all my recipes and equipment he was able to oversee production and fix any glitches. He also built me a 7 foot platform so that the work counter would be at the right height for my 5 feet 3 inches plus Chefwear clogs.

Continue reading "Book Production Phase 9 Online Demo Production & Pre Photography Meeting" »

Rose's Kitchen Poster

Jun 25, 2008 | From the kitchen of Rose in Photos

You asked for it and Hector generously created it for download as a poster!

Download: 20 x 30 size Poster of Rose in People Magazine
(6.45 MB file size)

or

Download: 16 x 20 size Poster of Rose in People Magazine
(6.48 MB file size)

Whole Wheat Sandwich Loaf

Jun 28, 2008 | From the kitchen of Rose in Bread

This is my favorite new whole wheat sandwich loaf that I've been promising to post.
I look forward to hearing if you love it as much as I do.

I've found that using 50 percent whole wheat and 50 percent white wheat flour is the perfect balance for flavor and texture. There is enough gluten from the white wheat flour to give it excellent volume and consistency. Adding the starter gives it a longer shelf life and also incredibly perfect depth of flavor but it's great even without it or you could substitute the suggested old bread dough. Simply save some when you are making a loaf of hearth bread. It keeps at room temperature for about 6 hours, refrigerated for 48 hours and refrigerated for at least 3 months. If you omit the old starter or if you add old dough (which already has the right balance of salt) you will need to use 1/8 teaspoon less salt.

I've worked out some tips for working with whole wheat flour should you want to replace other recipes with part whole wheat. They will be at the end of the recipe for those who are interested. But just one essential tip right up front: Whole wheat flour must be fresh to give a sweet wheaty flavor to the bread as opposed to a bitter (rancid) flavor. You can grind your own or purchase it. If grinding your own you need to use it within 3 days or store it for 3 weeks up to 3 months. For longer storage freeze for up to 1 year. If purchasing the flour, make sure to check the expiration date. You can also freeze it for up to 1 year.

Oven Temperature: 450F/230˚C, then 400°F/200˚C
Baking Time: 35 to 45 minutes.

50% Whole Wheat Sandwich Bread
Makes: An 8 1/2 inch by 5 inch by 4 1/2 to 5 inch high loaf (927 grams/2 pounds)

INGREDIENTS	MEASUREMENTS	WEIGHT
	*volume*	*ounces*	*grams*
water, room temperature (70 to 90°F.)	1 1/2 cups (12 fluid ounces)	12 ounces	342 grams
old starter or old bread dough	about 1/4 cup	2.6 ounces	75 grams
honey	2 tablespoons	1.5 ounces	40 grams
whole wheat flour	1 3/4 cups	8.7 ounces	247 grams
Gold Medal Harvest King/Better for Bread flour	1 2/3 cups	8.7 ounces	247 grams
non-fat milk powder	3 tablespoons	.	.
instant yeast	1 1/8 teaspoons	.	3.6 grams
oil, preferably canola or safflower	2 tablespoons	1 ounce	27 grams
salt	1 1/2 + 1/8 teaspoons	.	9.7 grams

Equipment: A 9 inch by 5 inch (7 cup) loaf pan (8 1/2 inch by 4 1/2 inch loaf pan if not using old starter) greased lightly with cooking spray or oil. A baking stone or baking sheet.

1) Soak the Starter: In a mixer bowl, place the water and tear the starter or old bread dough into small pieces into it. Add the honey, cover and allow it to sit for about 1 hour.

In a large bowl whisk together the whole wheat flour, Harvest King Better for Bread flour, non-fat milk powder, and yeast. Add about 2 cups/300 grams/10.5 ounces to the water mixture and whisk until smooth and the consistency of a thick pancake batter. (This is to distribute the pieces of starter evenly.)
(If using a bread machine place the water and honey in a medium bowl. Tear the starter into the bowl, in a few pieces, and stir it together until it is soft. Scrape it into the bowl of the bread machine. Whisk together the two flours but not the yeast or salt and sprinkle the mixture on top. Let sit covered 30 minutes to 1 hour.)

2) Mix the dough: Add the rest of the flour mixture and, with the dough hook, mix on low speed (#2 Kitchen Aid) about 1 minute, until the flour is moistened to form a rough dough. Scrape down any bits of dough. Cover the top of the bowl with plastic wrap and allow the dough to rest for 20 minutes. Add the oil and knead the dough on low speed (#2 Kitchen Aid) for 7 minutes, adding the salt after the oil is mixed in.
(In the bread machine, mix it for 3 minutes and then autolyse--let rest--for 20 minutes. Add the oil and knead for 7 minutes, adding the yeast after the first minute and the salt after the yeast is mixed in. )

The dough should be sticky enough to cling to your fingers. If it is not at all sticky spray it with a little water and knead it. (The dough should weigh about 2 pounds, 3 1/2 ounces /1011grams/ a little more than 1 quart).

3) Let the dough rise: Place the dough into a 3 quart or larger dough rising container greased lightly with cooking spray or oil. Press down the dough and lightly spray or oil the top. Cover the container tightly with a lid or plastic wrap. With a piece of tape, mark where double the height would be. Allow the dough to rise (ideally at 80°F/26˚C.) until doubled in size, about an hour and 10 minutes.

Using an oiled spatula or dough scraper, remove the dough to a lightly floured counter. Press down on it gently to form a rectangle. Stretch the dough and give it a package fold (pull out the bottom and fold it to the center, then the same with the left side, right side, and top), round the edges and return it to the bowl, smooth side up. Again, oil the surface, cover, mark where double the height will now be (3 quarts) and allow it to rise until it reaches this point, about 1 hour. (Or refrigerate it overnight and bring it to room temperature for 1 hour before proceeding, pushing it down when it reaches 3 quarts.)

4) Shape the dough and let it rise: Turn the dough onto a lightly floured counter, smooth side down, and press it gently to flatten it. It will still be a little sticky but use only as much flour as absolutely necessary to keep it from sticking. Allow the dough to rest covered for 20 minutes. Dimple it all over with your finger tips to eliminate air bubbles, shape it into a loaf, and place it in the prepared loaf pan. It should fill the pan no more than 1/2 inch from the top. Cover it lightly with oiled plastic wrap and allow it to rise until the highest point is 1 to 1 1/2 inches above the sides of the pan and when pressed gently with a finger the depression very slowly fills in--about 45 minutes.

5) Preheat the oven: 1 hour before baking set a cast iron pan lined with foil onto the floor of the oven and preheat the oven to 450F/230˚C.

6) Bake the bread: Spritz the top of the dough with water. Quickly but gently set the bread pan onto the hot stone or hot baking sheet and toss 1/2 cup of ice cubes into the pan beneath. Immediately shut the door, lower the temperature to 400°F/205˚C, and bake 35 to 45 minutes or until the bread is golden brown and a skewer inserted in the middle comes out clean. (An instant read thermometer inserted into the center will register 190° to 205°F/88 to 96˚C. Half-way through baking rotate the pan half way around for even baking.

7) Cool the bread Remove the bread from the oven, unmold it from the pan, and transfer it to a wire rack to cool completely, top-side up.

Note: If not using the starter omit the extra 1/8 teaspoon salt.

Continue reading "Whole Wheat Sandwich Loaf" »

Welcome to Real Baking with Rose, the personal blog of author Rose Levy Beranbaum.

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