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Cape Clams
Well actually it’s called Cape Cod but I’d much rather be eating fried clams than cod! In fact, I’d much rather be eating fried clams in a shack by the ocean than a 4 course dinner in any of the Cape’s fanciest restaurants.
Always in pursuit of the perfect fried clams I think I arrived during our too short visit to the Cape for Elliott’s conference in Chatham. When I discovered Nickerson’s Fish and Lobster shack
I returned every morning for a late breakfast/early brunch of fried clam bellies (hold the roll and the fries).
In NY it’s near impossible to find anything but the strips which are more batter than clam. I adore the taste of clam probably because it reminds me of the ocean. I was born in Far Rockaway, close enough to the Atlantic Ocean to smell the salt air. My first sandbox in our small yard was filled with the golden sand from the nearby beach and my first toy was a large clam shell great for scooping up the sand. I used to collect the ruby red ‘stone’ that attached the two halves of the shell, thinking they were gems but they disappointingly darkened to dark brown.
Sitting by the dock at Nickerson’s, eating the clams and watching the boats take off and return with the fresh catch brought back many of these memories.
Nickerson’s first opened in 1948. The name comes from the first settler of Cape Cod in the 1600’s. The Reilly’s have owned it for the past 6 years and the whole family works together during the high season. Their chef is a graduate of Johnson and Wales and has worked as a chef in several top New England restaurants.
Tom Reilly always on the job
Obviously the fish is day boat fresh, but Nickerson’s has something extra beyond that: A 65 foot deep salt water well at 52º to 55ºF/ 11º to 13Cº (the same as the ocean) provides a filtration system that circulates through building, and is responsible for the pristine quality of the clams. For frying the clams they use soy oil (0 transfats) which they clean every night and change every 3 or 4 days.
Happily I discovered that Nickerson’s will ship the shucked clams (and they have to be steamers—nothing else gives the perfect contrast of plump bellies and slightly chewy ‘strips.) frozen. To order call 508-945-0145. You can also order the special New England cornmeal breading but here is their recipe which is easy enough to make yourself.
Heat oil to 350ºF/177Cº. While it is heating, mix together: 50% corn meal and 25% bleached white flour.
Lightly combine whole eggs with a little evaporated milk. Dip the clams first in this mixture and then coat in the cornmeal mixture. Fry for about 2 minutes or just until golden. Drain onto paper towels and salt to taste.
And for desert, a 10 minutes walk into the town of Chatham will land you at
Buffy’s ice cream parlor. The ice cream and the waffle cones are home made. My favorite: Coffee ice cream with Heath Bar. There will be a long line but it moves quickly though never quickly enough!
An imaginative use of tap wheels in a flower box on Main Street.
A first visit to the Cape would not be complete without a drive to the end of the peninsula—Provincetown. We quickly bypassed the quaint but claustrophobically crowded town to reach the Race Point beach. It was like standing at the end of the world.
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Comments
yes i think that's what they meant!
Reply to this Posted by: Rose Levy Beranbaum | August 2, 2008 2:09 PM #
That does read a little funny - maybe she meant 1 part flour and 2 parts corn meal.
Reply to this Posted by: Patrincia | August 1, 2008 3:30 PM #
You say mix together 50% corn meal and 25% flour. I think you need another 25% of something. Or is this a light batter?
Reply to this Posted by: Andy | August 1, 2008 3:28 PM #
I am so jealous!!!
I grew up in Providence Rhode Island,remmebering the beaches and eating fried clams,steamers,the riding the Block Island Ferry,and of course,the cranberry place (OCEAN SPRAY) and having ice cream at Elsie the cow...
My husband and I just ate tonight at Ceasars Joes Stone Crab.....the same JOES as in Florida...delish but never the same the same as you lucky people on the water in the summer......Enjoy....
I forgot yo wish Elliot "Happy Birthday" Rose.....
Love you,
Andi in Vegas.
Andi in Vegas
Reply to this Posted by: Andi Fishman | July 26, 2008 11:21 PM #
hey y'all: do say hello to tom and family--no sure they know about this posting! i'm defrosting their sea weed salad to go with salmon for tomorrow night. not sure it can survive freezing but worth trying!
Reply to this Posted by: Rose Levy Beranbaum | July 25, 2008 2:24 PM #
My mother lives in Chatham and Nickerson's is one of my husbands favorite haunts when we visit. Every morning he go out for "coffee" and return with either a lobster or steamers. He was drooling over the pictures.
Reply to this Posted by: Anne | July 25, 2008 8:06 AM #
I read this website all the time. I live about 25 minutes from Cape Cod and I've never had the clams from Nickerson's. I think I'll try them this weekend. Thanks!
Reply to this Posted by: Heather | July 24, 2008 7:48 PM #
I used to get great clams in Freeport. I miss Long Island....I remember Rockaway beach and practically lived all summer long at Jones Beach. I grew up in Bellerose!
Reply to this Posted by: Debbie | July 24, 2008 4:14 PM #
I am just drooling because where I live you can't get fried clams.
Reply to this Posted by: Cheryl | July 23, 2008 2:17 PM #
Deep frying is something I never do at home, maybe because my Chinese parents over did it!!!
But when I eat out, it is ALL I crave for.
The clams look fantastic.
Reply to this Posted by: Hector | July 22, 2008 5:56 PM #
Small world - I spent a lot of time in Far Rockaway as a kid. Carnegie Ave - very close to the beach (and JFK runway).
Reply to this Posted by: Patrincia | July 19, 2008 8:32 PM #