Switzerland Part Four--Not til The Cows Come Home
Jan 17, 2009 | From the kitchen of Rose
We arrived in Appenzell to the clanging of bells—the cows were coming down from the mountain. This spectacular and strangely stirring event only happens once a year, the first Tuesday of October and all the farmers of the region join in this procession.
Children, dressed in traditional costumes, join the procession carrying switches to keep the cows in line. At what I thought was the end of the procession along came the bull. Then came the goats and then still more cows.
There was a wonderful milky smell and occasionally moos! A small black and white dog leapt among the cows biting at their heels to help keep them in line.
Children are allowed to smoke cigars on this one day of the year which is said to cure them forever of the desire to smoke!
After the procession we went for a guided tour around the lovely town.
I was delighted to see the large outdoor version of my uncle Nat’s Movado Museum Watch.
We were treated to an outdoor solo Swiss horn concert.
The original decorations on this ancient pharmacy are depictions of the medicinal herbs.
This statue in the town square represents the way in which to this day the town vote is taken (with the raising of hands).
We followed the haunting sound of several costumed men sitting in a restaurant singing “ruggusala” which was described to us as yodeling without words or music. Then on to Appenzell cheese factory for lunch.
The panorama of rolling bright green hills could not have been more picturesque. We were told it stays this green all year long and it was not surprising that this landscape would produce the famous Appenzeller cheese, made from the milk of grass or hay fed cows with some grain added to the feed to make it richer. The cheese is treated with brine and a secret recipe of 40 plus herbs and white wine. The different types of cheese are: 1) Classic—aged 3 months (my preference), 2) surchoix, aged 4 months, 3) extra aged 6-7 months (too strong to my taste) 4) biologic, aged 3 months, 5) one quarter the fat aged 3 months and 6) one quarter the fat--very ripe--6-8 months. 70 farms in the region produce 19,000 litres of milk plus organic milk. Appenzeller cheese will have AOC designation probably within this decade.
The following day was listed on our itinerary as “cow trekking,” which none of us could define so it piqued our curiosity even though we weren't sure we wanted to do it! It turned out to be part of our visit to an organic farm and the highlight of the entire trip. Next and final Swiss trip posting…..(from this trip!)
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Rose
01/21/2009 02:47 PM
yes--it is an amazing 'coincidence'but remember--i knew who you were the minute i stepped into the room that day of the flour presentation. clearly there is something mystical going on!
by the way, my goat farmer, meredith, raises her goats for cheese!
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Bill
01/21/2009 09:04 AM
LOLOLOL...OK...so I'm an Orthodontist, your mother was an orthodontist. We both grew up in NY. We both danced with famous dance teachers in our youth (I think I've got that right)... We both love baking (although you are truly the Godess and I am just a fledgling student)...and ... now...we both have childhood friends who are GOAT FARMERS? How can that be? It isn't like there are thousands of former New Yorkers who are now GOAT FARMERS! Rose...you put a smile on my face today. I actually spoke with my friend Nannette the goat farmer a couple of nights ago...and all is well with her ... and the goats.(Nannette the goat farmer...doesn't that sound like a children's book?) I had asked her if she raises them for meat or milk...she responded, very matter of factly, "Both"....but her chickens are raised only for eggs. This is soooo out of the realm of my experience...milk comes in a carton, meat on a piece of styrofoam wrapped in Saran wrap, and eggs in a box! and it all magically springs forth in this big building called the Food Emporioum...right?
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Rose
01/21/2009 08:46 AM
i ran into a former classmate from junior high school when i was standing in line at the fancy food show a few years ago. she was there selling her soap which she made as a side line to her goat farm in provence!
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Bill
01/21/2009 08:39 AM
What lovely pictures and what an interesting posting. When you live in a city, you sometimes forget that milk doesn't spring forth magically in a sealed wax-coated cardboard container. I recently re-connected with a gal I went to High School with here in NYC...and guess what? She is a Goat Farmer in Colorado! A goat farmer! It is a long and extaordinary story...but it just reminds us where all our wonderful produce, dairy and meat come from.
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Bill
01/21/2009 08:37 AM
What lovely pictures and what an interesting posting. When you live in a city, you sometimes forget that milk doesn't spring forth magically in a sealed wax-coated cardboard container. I recently re-connected with a gal I went to High School with here in NYC...and guess what? She is a Goat Farmer in Colorado! A goat farmer! It is a long and extaordinary story...but it just reminds us where all our wonderful produce, dairy and meat come from.
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Julie
01/20/2009 09:15 PM
What lovely photos, I especially like the pharmacy and the children in traditional dress!
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Patrincia
01/17/2009 10:34 PM
What a colorful country!
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Nancy Keel
01/17/2009 08:09 PM
I had the pleasure of a lovely little side trip to Austria and Switzerland while vacationing in Italy. What quaint costumes and excellent cheese! I still have a cute little embroidered cap I bought for my granddaughter which is a lovely reminder of the trip. I can't imagine her smoking a cigar...
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SarahM
01/17/2009 01:04 PM
Europeans, for all their sophistication, truly do cherish and honor their roots, often in the most charming and delightful ways.
When I lived in Paris, there was a parc right next to my home. One weekend, farmers arrived with their livestock and goods and set up camp to put on an autumn festival. On the last day, I got into a conversation with the goat farmer through my window. He saw my baby daughter behind me and asked me to hand out a clean bowl.
He proceeded to milk his goat and passed back through the window the now-full bowl of warm goat milk, (along with proper sterilization instructions, bien sur) telling me nothing was better for babies than fresh lait du chevre. :)
It was a hoot...and this post reminded me of all the wonderful things that we usually don't get to see or experience when we visit.
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