Jun 01, 2009 | From the kitchen of Rose
in Announcements
Happy June 1 and happy indeed as the first cake and frosting (including commentary, photos and recipes) from my new book has appeared. Check out http://www.heavenlycakeplace.blogspot.com
This unusual combination of spice cake and peanut buttercream was inspired by Lillan Hayward, mother of Woody’s T'ai Chi master Sifu Ray (funny coincidence both she and Marie are from the Twin Cities! But Marie says she chose this as her first cake to try because her husband Jim loves peanut butter.)
This is my newest peanut buttercream and I'm very pleased with it. In fact I'm combining it with my new devil's food cake for a special birthday party this coming weekend in Hope!
I really have to stop saying that each recipe I offer on these videos is my favorite but what can I tell you--they all are. That's why I chose them for my first PBS series! Cramberry Walnut Bread, cousin to the Raisin Pecan Bread, is one of the bread I make most often to bring to dinner parties as a hostess present. (They always serve it for the dinner--it makes a perfect accompaniment to a cheese course.) THE RECIPE
Jun 04, 2009 | From the kitchen of Rose
in Recipes
It's entirely possible that there is no flavor more delightful and compelling than strawberry.
I’ll never forget my first taste of wild strawberries. I was 13 and was sent to the Putney Work Camp in Vermont to learn some work ethics and outdoor skills. The first overnight hike, carrying what seemed like an unbearably heavy backpack, was not very much to my liking until I discovered just before falling asleep that my sleeping bag was on a bed of wild strawberries. The sweet intense sting of the tiny berries was so amazing I almost forgot about the raw egg someone had slipped into my sleeping bag after hearing me brag about how my father had made it for me (another lesson learned!).
A few years ago, at the Union Square Farmer’s Market, I discovered the best strawberries since that night in Vermont so many years ago and a subsequent trip to France one June. They are called “day neutrals” and are a cross between the French fraises de bois and our often watery, flavorless, over-sized variety.
But what to do when now, at the height of strawberry season nearing, when the berries are sometimes disappointingly flavorless. This happened last weekend and here’s my restoration solution. It's quite shocking to discover how a little sugar and time can transform and bring out the flavor that a strawberry was born to possess.
For 1 cup/4 ounces/113 grams of hulled, sliced strawberries add about 1 teaspoon of sugar (don’t get fancy here—just superfine or granulated). Toss lightly, cover, and allow to sit for a minimum of 30 minutes—longer is better still. They will keep at room temperature for several hours or in the refrigerator for several days.
When ready to serve, drain the berries, placing the liquid in a lightly oiled microwave safe cup. Watching carefully, microwave on high until the juices are reduced to thick but still pourable syrup. Allow it to cool until just warm or room temperature and gently stir them back into the berries. Fabulous over Haagen-Dazs strawberry ice cream!
Jun 06, 2009 | From the kitchen of Rose
in Announcements
We all know that they best way to keep pie dough from sticking to the surface while rolling it out is to keep it cool. But unless you have a refrigerated marble top, chill down your marble or granite counter, or use the Kuhn Rikkon plastic box like device into which you can insert ice packs, the chances are that it will soften to some degree while rolling.
The best temperature for the dough is 60 to 65˚F/15 to 18˚C. Colder and it cracks, warmer and it sticks so speed is of the essence here.
I’m always looking for the ideal way to prevent sticking and avoid adding too much extra flour to the dough. Up until I discovered the "magic dough mat" I swore by the pastry cloth and sleeve into which you rub flour allowing the to dough pick up only the bare minimum it requires.
When I saw the dough mat described in an industry equipment magazine I was skeptical but ordered one to check it out. I was stunned to discover that unless the dough really softens it virtually prevents sticking.
Note: It’s always a good idea when rolling the dough to move it from time to time to ensure that it will release and if it seems to be getting a little resistant, to sprinkle on a little flour. I prefer Wondra, as it’s slightly coarse texture makes it wonderfully slippery and less is needed.
The dough mat has a slightly adhesive bottom surface, which keeps it from slipping on the counter. The top surface has all manner of useful information such as guide rings for different size doughs and lots of metric equivalencies including volume and temperature. It rolls up for easy storage.
The dough mat is carried by some cookware shops or can be ordered on line from http://www.cooking.com or directly from the manufacturer for about $20 plus shipping.
This segment is intended to be a lesson in my basic mixing technique for the American butter layer cake and the French Génoise. There is no better way to see the consistency of the layer cake batter and the all important consistency of the génoise when it has been beaten for the full amount of time. THE RECIPES
Jun 10, 2009 | From the kitchen of Rose
in Announcements
Taking a week off to breathe the country air, smell the roses, and take a break from the internet. There will, however, be the usual Saturday posting and Wednesday You Tube link.
Take care of yourselves and each other. I'll try to avoid temptation but will surely take a peek from time to time.
I’ve been trying to have a real rest and change from my usual routine which means mostly staying off the internet. Nature cooperated by huge thunder storms that zapped the dsl box requiring the modem to be reset and the apple airport to be reconfigured (1 ½ hour drive to the nearest Apple store in the Rockway Mall but the genius bar was just that!).
Now I can’t resist sharing these five photos from the past week. These first two are the Devil’s Food Cake from the upcoming book frosted with the Peanut Buttercream Marie Wolf wrote about and pictured on her new blog http://heavenlycakeplace.blogspot.com but pared with a spice cake. (Peeking out from the side are dried tart cherries that had been soaked in cognac! The nuts encrusting the side are dry roasted unsalted peanuts cut by hand to avoid nut dust--it was a very relaxing process.) My friend and neighbor Maria Menegus invited us to help celebrate her birthday at neighbors' Lorraine and Bob. When I asked her for her favorite cake flavors and she mentioned chocolate and peanut butter this rendition leapt to mind.
Everyone contributed different dishes to the celebration and it was all fabulous: Marion’s potato salad with Joe Menegus’s winter storage potatoes (the best I’ve ever had), Lorraine’s spinach and strawberry salad (what a terrific combination of bitter and sweet) using Maria’s just picked spinach, Maria's spinach and cheese calzone, Bob’s marinated, grilled flat iron steak and surprise surprise—he roasts and grinds his own coffee! Before I went over to the Nespresso pod system I did the same but he is the first person I’ve met who also makes this effort.
We left just as night was falling and a new moon rising.
I made 12 caramel buns just for us for the week. I had trouble to stop eating this one in order to take the photo of it's gossamer texture.
This last photo is of the largest turtle I have ever seen in the wild. We were walking up the hill to play tennis at the Inn at Mill Race and I was so shocked I thought it was a sculpture. But no—it was digging a hole into the side of the hill to lay its eggs. We will be following its progress—with great hope.
I'm sure you're all curious to see what Hector made for his special birthday celebration. I think the results are stunning! I just couldn't resist offering Hector a recipe from the wedding cake chapter of my upcoming book because it was so appropriate to his location. I asked Hector to write this posting so he could describe the process and results!
Hector Hawaii 4-0
Be careful what you ask for as you may get it, and there hasn't been one thing Rose hasn't delivered for me! Months ago, while working on the youtube project, I shouted to get paid: "Rose, can you make my 40th birthday cake?" She almost said yes, except knowing that it will need to be done far apart and on the same day after her return trip from Paris, instead she gave me one of her new cake recipes: The Tropical Wedding Cake for Hector.
When I reviewed the recipe at first sight, i was not excited. Tropical fruits was something I hardly specialized in. You know, it is true we always think the grass is greener at the other side of your town (yellow in my case). But as one matures with time, like love, I now feel the "local chef celebrity status in Hawaii." This cake has gained more attention than any of my previous cakes have, locally. The macadamia nuts came from Lions Gate Farm in Kona http://www.coffeeofkona.com. Suzanne Shriner harvested the most perfectly fresh nuts and carefully packed the precious cargo with layers of bubble wrap; per my paranoid request of a food stylist! Whole mac nuts are worth their price in gold, so here they are for your enjoyment! The vanilla came from Huahua Farm, also in Kona http://www.huahuafarm.com. Clare Wilson grows the vanilla beans herself; hers are so nature perfect that one day I envision making a cake covered with whole vanilla bean twigs.
This is a banana cake with passion fruit mousseline. The nuts were removed prior to slicing the cake, and later added back on to each serving plate. My dearest friend Deanna and her children Jade and Wilson, were uttermost supportive (needless to say, they attended each of my month long birthday parties!). Wilson is such well behaved child, he was hired to remove all the nuts during cake cutting, and he did so without snacking!
I love the picture with the ocean and being tossed a prize medal. Children tell the true story without words: Jade shared her judo medal with me! Everyone made comments that Rose's banana cake was the best in the world. It was truthful bananas delicious, fragrant without using banana essence (which most bakeries use giving it an artificial flavor), the dark tan color and the speckles were appetizing, but most of all is the characteristic melt in the mouth texture Rose's butter cakes mixing method have. I confess to always mixing an extra minute or two whenever using Rose's butter cakes mixing method, to guarantee achieving "developing cake structure" a concept I find so hard to explain in writing... so perhaps I will make a short video and youtube it!. I do notice Rose adds an incredible amount of salt, and kindly whispered asking if anyone thought this cake was salty? Nobody said so...... Salt is sweets’ and desserts’ best flavor enhancer. My mother always used sugar to enhance the flavor of salty dishes, or salt to enhance the flavor of sweet dishes!
These days I use extra meat (6 ounces/170 grams) in in the Prosciutto Bread including hot sopresata sausage and pepperoni. It is so delicious and, as you will see, so very easy to make.
The Gâteau au Grand Marnier et Chocolat is many people's favorite from The Cake Bible.It keeps so long and ships so well it is the one I make most often for my father in upstate NY. In response to many requests over the past 20 years I am offering it as a three-tier wedding cake in the upcoming book! THE RECIPES
Jun 18, 2009 | From the kitchen of Rose
in Announcements
Just saw the announcement in The New York Times yesterday: Tickets are now on sale for the New York City Wine & Food Festival at nycwineandfoodfestival.com
My event will be on October 10 (10/10 day!)
My dear friend the brilliant pastry chef and chocolatier Jean François Bonnet of Tumbador will be making 1000 tastings of his chocolate financier recipe that is included in the upcoming book.
On top of La Tour Montparnasse, photographed by Kate Coldrick
We met in May of 06 long distance over a chocolate glaze. Zach had the rudiments of a recipe he obtained from a patisserie called La Petite Rose in Paris. I had what turned out to be a near identical recipe from pastry chef Hidemi Sugino in Japan, translated by my friend Yoko Sakuma. I had kept the recipe for several years fearing it wouldn’t work because so often recipes given by chef don’t as evidenced by the e-mail below. It was the shiniest chocolate glaze I had ever seen and I dubbed it “Chocolate Lacquer Glaze” though Woody improved upon this calling it “Baby Grand Piano Glaze.” I told Zach that if he would test the recipe I would send him what I had and give him credit in the book. Between him, Woody, and me we must have tweaked it close to 30 times and it now graces the cover of my upcoming book. I also included Zach’s fabulous recreation of the La Petite Rose signature cake Le Valentin which I renamed “La Bomba” because the original was shaped in a 7 inch/4 cup pan which is not readily available so we decided to shape it in a standard size 4 cup bowl!
Here are my two favorite muffins: My version of the traditional blueberry muffin and a giant size muffin/bread I call the Stud Muffin because it is studded with cheese which creates lacy cheese lined holes in the crumb and crunchy/chewy caramelized cheese on the crust. (YUM!)
The posting I wrote last week about my recent trip to Paris reminded me of one from many years ago when the International Association of Culinary Professionals had a regional meeting in that, my favorite city. There were so many stories from that trip including the surprise of running into my brother and sister-in-law who were staying at the very same hotel as I, and driving through France afterwards in a car of far too few chevaux with Shirley Corriher who has since documented some of the more hilarious episodes in her book CookWise. But the most unforgettable memory of the trip was meeting Simone Beck. This is the obituary that I wrote for the LA Times Syndicate in March, 1992 which tells the story:
It is with great sadness that I have just learned of the recent death of Simone "Simca" Beck. Simca was one of the culinary greats who devoted her long life to the enjoyment, knowledge and teaching of food. It was she, together with Julia Child in Mastering the Art of French Cooking, who brought French culinary tradition to America, raising our culinary consciousness and changing forever the way in which we think about eating. I wish I could have had the chance to have known her better because she possessed three of my very favorite qualities: passion, devotion and irrepressible honesty. I only had the pleasure of meeting her once, but that occasion was memorable. It was at a meeting of the International Association of Cooking Professionals in Paris, several years ago. One of the events was a dinner at the venerable restaurant Taillevent. I heard that Simca would be a guest of honor at dinner and hoped for the chance to meet this culinary legend, not imagining more than a short introduction at best, considering the large number of people present at the meeting, some of whom, no doubt, already knew her and would be anxious to talk to her. I arrived early and decided to take a seat at the dinner table rather than stand in the anteroom chatting with friends over drinks. No one had yet entered the dining room but for some unaccountable reason I decided for once to sit alone and perhaps meet some new colleagues instead of gravitating as usual to the people I already knew. I remember thinking: "let's see who I will attract," when in walked Simca, all alone. She looked about the room and, to my amazement, instead of reserving a table for friends or acquaintances she came over and sat next to me. It was a gift from the Gods and a lesson in humility. There was I, congratulating myself on my fearless courage of sitting alone and there was Simca, more couragous still, coming over to sit next to a complete stranger!
Soon other colleagues came pouring into the room and we were no longer alone. It was a delightful evening. The food was wonderful and the conversation still more delicious. Three statements of Simca's remain indeilible in my memory: She said that to remember the essence and taste of french food it was necessary to come back to France at least every other year. When we all agreed that one of the sauces was far too salty, it was Simca who called over the mâitre d', crooked her index finger at him and commanded him in no uncertain terms to tell the chef that the sauce was "trop salé." And finally, at the end of the evening she further warmed my heart by pronouncing that "most people in their life times will never speak French the way you do, not having been born in France," thus divining my greatest pride. In short, after one evening, I was awed by her and trusted her integrity absolutely.
Our paths never crossed again, but when my Cake Bible was completed, I sent Simca an inscribed copy and she wrote me a treasured letter with the ultimate compliment: "not since our "bible" has one been written like this." The incredibly generous statement from her meant the world to me.
I am grateful that Simca lived to complete and see published her wonderful memoires and recipes: Food and Friends. It has given me, as it will give the world, the chance to know her and her glorious food better.
Note: When doing a spell check, the dictionary said that the word Simca was not in the dictionary and the suggested change was simmer! I think Simca would have enjoyed that!
Jun 28, 2009 | From the kitchen of Rose
in Savory Cooking
This is a fantastic year for New Jersey blueberries. I empty a container of no fat high-quality plain yogurt into a bowl, swirl in some lemon curd, a sprinkle it with blueberries! Simple, healthful, and heavenly!
Special note: I've finally figured out how to post my own photos on the blog. I was motivated to figure it out because I wanted to post this right away before life and the NASFT food show take over tomorrow.
with the help of hector (had to change the width to 480 pixels but we both actually liked the unintentionally cropped version!) nice to have a choice though.
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