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Zach and I in Paris Part Three
About a month before my trip to Paris, my friend Marko Gnann, who gives where to eat advice I always take, recommended the Sunday brunch at Le Crillon. He described the amazing buffet, the excellent price, and promised it would be the only meal we would eat for the rest of the day. He was right about all three except that we almost didn’t find out because when Zach called a month ahead he was told that there were no reservations to be had and that it had been filled a whole month before then!
Since Zach was arriving in Paris several days before my arrival I suggested that he go in person and explain how my bloggers all over the world would love to share this experience. They most graciously made a place for us without his having had to get down on his knees and beg which would have been worth it but I’m not sure he would have been willing to go that far!
I had never been to Le Crillon before and it was like stepping into a fairy tale palace. Despite the formality, one was immediately put at ease by the professional but friendly staff.
We began with a glass of excellent champagne, and then a seemingly endless array of plates started arriving. There were two types of butter, one demi-sel from Brittany , two different house made confitures (one was rhubarb), a menu offering a choice of main dishes, and a side table bearing a large variety of petites four, three types of "line caught" smoked salmon, two varieties of ham, croissants and pain chocolat. I tried most everything. We were seated right next to the pastry part of the table which made it ever so convenient to reach over without even having to get up!
Everything was delicious but my number one favorite was the brioche mousseline that was brought to our table.
I would have been happy just with that. The server told us that the secret was serving it hot from the oven, but I wanted to know more. I asked him to ask the chef and he returned saying the chef was not willing to part with the details. Throwing both humility and pride to the wind I handed him the book blad with the 8 photos I had brought for Zach and said: “show this to the chef and maybe he will reconsider.” The waiter came back with a few interesting tidbits more: The dough has to be beaten an extra long time.(I asked if by hand because Madeleine Kamman had told me years ago that with all the butter in a brioche mousseline it must be beaten by hand). He also said that the butter is higher than the rest of the ingredients—60 to 70% but I’m quite sure he meant higher than the flour because my brioche is 50% though I do give suggestions for making it with more. But look at this texture!
Zach and I finished all but one slice of the tall brioche column because we knew it wouldn’t be the same the next day. We also knew that the lemon Savarin would be and happily I did what no self-respecting French person ever would—I slipped it into an American restaurant ‘doggy bag’ container I just happened to be carrying and shared it with Zach after we left. It was indeed fantastic the following days.
Post Script
Just before leaving, Zach leaned over and whispered to me that the young French woman at the table behind us had been staring at me the entire time. I couldn’t figure out why. She couldn’t have recognized me from the Gold Medal Better for Bread Flour bag so it must have been the look of shear joy on my face the entire meal that just wouldn’t quit!
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Gee, it looks like a new project for Rose to recreate that Brioche! :-) (OK, I'm begging ... just a teeny bit.)
Reply to this Posted by: Michelle | August 21, 2009 3:12 PM #
Pat,
Those are little ladyfingers on the side of that pastry. They were a red fruit mousse inside, if I remember correctly. I have a photo somewhere of the pastry once we dug into it that reveals the inside.
How great that you get to enjoy baking AND help people out at the same time as a result of your work - good for you!
Zach
Reply to this Posted by: Zach Townsend | August 21, 2009 2:25 PM #
Zach, could not help myself! If most people ate like this everyday, we would be enormous! What were the little red petites four with the white stripes? I have been a "Rose" follower for many years. I have all her books with the exception of the most recent one and have ordered it. I read this blog during lunch almost every day. I bake & sell my cakes & candies to help people in the community & to benefit cancer victims. Right now I am trying to earn the funds to buy a washer & dryer for a young single mother.
Reply to this Posted by: Pat Simonds | August 21, 2009 1:23 PM #
I must say -- that looks like the brunch of my dreams.
Reply to this Posted by: Travis Smith | July 13, 2009 3:48 PM #
Ahhhh . . . it sounds just wonderful! Someday we will get to go to France.
Hubby and I went to L'Auberge Provencale B&B (in Virginia) this weekend and we had our first truly gourmet dinner - 5 courses. Wonderful, wonderful food and I could have kept going with 3 more courses. I'm usually full by the time I get through 1/4 of my plates at places such as Olive Garden
Reply to this Posted by: Lola LB | July 13, 2009 10:56 AM #
Sounds so wonderfully dreamy. Brioche is one of my all-time favorite things, I think I would have done just about anything to be able to take that lemon Savarin home. The petites four are so exquisite.
Reply to this Posted by: Julie | July 12, 2009 9:27 AM #
Thx u so much for sharing this dearly rose and z. The lasr paris post but the best one: the buffet.
Rose, I am so proud of you bringing the doggie bag! This is a usa habbit that often sends you to the guilliotine in france! Right?
I wish we can eat like this everyday, too!!! Hawaii is buffet paradise at the many scenic resorts, but in my opinion, due to food 'industry' and corn syrup, the taste and quality isn't as good as how you describe Le Crillon!!!
I love to booze around the little towns of Italy and Peru where the word buffet is new. Oh holly grains, buffets are done so well here. Little do they know that buffet means self serve and a line of shaffing trays! Heaven is when hot items are made to order or finished at your table! Amen!
Reply to this Posted by: hector | July 11, 2009 6:27 PM #
Although your Paris lunch sounds exquisite and I'm sure you really enjoyed it, I can honestly say I enjoyed our simple (by comparison) lunch at Dart's Farm just as much because of the company it was taken with! I had the same look of sheer joy on my face for days after.
Reply to this Posted by: Jeannette | July 11, 2009 4:46 PM #
The mousseline brioche sounds great. Funny, I was at a sale today and saw one of those old Pyrex bread tubes. Not that it would work for brioche--I'm sure it would probably just run out the sides--but it isn't often you see tube shaped breads, so it made me think of it.
Reply to this Posted by: Matthew | July 11, 2009 4:03 PM #
I wish we could eat like this everyday! :)
Zach
Reply to this Posted by: Zach Townsend | July 11, 2009 3:25 PM #