Ode to Exquisite Excellence: Daniel's COI
Apr 10, 2010 | From the kitchen of Rose
Photo of the Original Cake at the Wedding, Epiphany 2007
Those of you familiar with the Deep Chocolate Passion Wedding Cake in RHC already know what a fan I am of chef Daniel Patterson for whom I made this cake. I made the cake in the kitchen of his then newly opened restaurant Coi (pronounced kwah) but it wasn't until last month, on my first return to San Francisco since making the cake, that I had the pleasure of experiencing a full dinner there. (When I asked for walking directions from the Prescott Hotel the concierge said: Coi! An excellence choice! I smiled and said: I know!
I have followed Daniel when he was chef at two other San Francisco restaurants, the last of which was Frisson, but Coi is the first one he owns and he has already opened a less formal second restaurant, Il Cane Rosso (the red dog) in the Ferry Building. Coi is an arcane French word which means homey. The restaurant is indeed that but it also is a rare combination of comfort, elegance, and exquisite deliciousness.
A dinner at Coi is an experience--a unique adventure. Daniel is the soul of originality married to idealism, intellect, and artistry. He has a finely tuned sense of balance of textures and flavors. I couldn't begin to know how to duplicate the mysteries of a single dish we enjoyed except, of course, the lovely dinner rolls, perfectly round, soft, and wheaty, with a fine crisp crust.
Because Daniel's plating is equally exquisite I'd like to share these photos and description of each from the Spring menu.
OYSTERS ROCKEFELLER, CALIFORNIA STYLE
(Bloomsdale Spinach Vegetable Mignonette, Horseradish--We adored the thin, flavorful, gelatinous encasement of the oysters)
CALCOTS
(New Onions, Smoke and Spice, Hazelnut-Almond Puree--Our favorite)
DINNER ROLLS
(Flecked with spelt flour)
EARLY SPRING
(Our Buttermilk, Cherry Blossoms, First Shoots of Wild Fennel)
ABALONE/ASPARAGUS (RAW & COOKED)
(Veal Jus, Seville Orange. Mint)
YOUNG CARROTS ROASTED IN HAY
(Sprouts, Radish Powder, Shaved Pecorino)
STEAK BEARNAISE (SORT OF)
(Aged Marin Sun Farms Beef, Marrow, Herbs)
TOMME CRAYEYSE (RODOLPHE LE MEUNIER)
(Wild Greens)
LIME CURD AND MERINGUE
(Aloe Vera, Shiso)
CAKE AND ICE CREAM
(Caramelized Chocolate Cake, Raw Milk Ice Cream--OMG was that ice cream remarkably fabulous!)
BLUE BOTTLE COFFEE
(Individually Brewed in a Chemex Drip Pot)
BLUE BOTTLE COFFEE
(My Favorite in All the World--how extraordinarily rare it is to get even good quality coffee in even the best restaurants not to mention the very best coffee lovingly prepared)
A few years ago, when Daniel was between restaurants, soon to open Coi, my visit to SF happened to coincide with my Dad's and Daniel invited us to his home for dinner. I remember two things the most vividly: The veal roast was the best roast I've ever tasted, and my 90+ Dad, who sat through the entire dinner mostly in appreciative silence, said in parting: If your cooking is this good at your new restaurant you will make a million!
I have profound respect for everything Daniel does and feel fortunate indeed to count him and his wife Alexandra as friends.
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Rachelino in reply to comment from Rose Levy Beranbaum
04/30/2010 03:25 PM
What a great time I had meeting you and Woody- that whole week was terrific! And then you guys headed off to IACP for the big win. How wonderful!
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Rose in reply to comment from Rachelino
04/29/2010 10:38 PM
rachelino, you ALWAYS do me and my cakes proud! it was so great to meet you at last. i can't wait to do a posting on that marvelous event but big catchup first from having been away 2 weeks!
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Rose in reply to comment from Stephany Buswell
04/29/2010 10:37 PM
i LOVE your photo/logo. yes i did go to yuor blog and great photos but in future the publisher's rule is that it's fine to post photos of process shots but not to give out the recipe, i.e. the amounts.
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Stephany Buswell
04/16/2010 08:51 AM
It was so nice chatting with you at the Baker's Dozen meeting and so much fun to taste all the creations made from your book. I have to say though I picked the best tasting one from the list! The White Gold Passion Cake!!! What wonderful flavors and texture! I did blog about making and tasting it if you would like to read it you can find me and the blog at chefany.com
Thanks Rose for all you hard work and insight you keep us always inspired!
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Rachelino
04/15/2010 01:22 AM
Rose- it was great to see you speak at our Baker's Dozen meeting! I made your German Chocolate Cake, and hope I did you proud. Thank you so much for sharing your spectacular meal at Coi. I am thrilled to know that Il Cane Rosso is also Daniel's. That's a touch more affordable and very close to my work, so I can try it soon. I look forward to Coi for a special occasion though.
(By the way, I am embarrassed that I have pronounced it like "koi pond" until recently, and not like "kwah" despite my years of French!!)
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Anonymous in reply to comment from meryl ankori
04/13/2010 12:45 AM
Meryl, That is a very interesting fact to me, as that is my Hubby's hometown! I wonder where I can purchase one there? They are so beautiful!
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hector in reply to comment from Julie
04/12/2010 09:35 PM
when i am in italy, i make an effort to pack 10 lbs of mascarpone on my waistline. it is so inexpensive there, and so very different in taste than any mascarpone done outside italy. i've been reading about vm company in detail, and i am starting to fall in love with the company, prior trying any of their products yet! glad to know you are one happy baker with vm. i can't wait to try it.
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Julie in reply to comment from Hector
04/12/2010 09:11 PM
Hector, I like VB&C marscapone very much for Tiramisu. Just today I bought some because it freezes well, which can't be said about most rich dairy (Cream, sour cream, and creme fraiche suffer in the freezer). Sorry, I haven't tasted it side-by-side with Italian imports, but it is tastier than Bel Gioso, which is the other brand sold here in New England.
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Jenn
04/12/2010 02:12 PM
Rose, thanks for posting the pictures! My friend just went there for her birthday and she said it was so fabulous. She didn't take pictures of the food so I couldn't see what it was all about. I'm glad you did. What an array of exquisite dishes!
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Sylvia gould in reply to comment from Anonymous
04/12/2010 01:52 PM
i forgot to write my name, this previous response was to Julie & Hector! Sylvia
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Anonymous in reply to comment from Julie
04/12/2010 01:45 PM
I have used the vermont butter marscapone with great results. The marscapone we had the problem with has only done this a couple of times, (green red & black on lable, i forgot the name) and for the many other times has worked fine. I didnt just want to blame the cheese if it was in fact, wrong technique. Thankyou for your thoughts and input they are very much appreciated! ;)
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Hector in reply to comment from Julie
04/12/2010 12:14 PM
Julie, I am eyeing the vm mascarpone, too. Do you like it better than others?
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Hector in reply to comment from Julie
04/12/2010 12:09 PM
Julie, I am eyeing the vm mascarpone, too. Do you like it better than others?
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Julie in reply to comment from sylvia gould
04/12/2010 09:32 AM
Sylvia, I have had excellent results making Rose's Tiramisu with Vermont Butter & Cheese marscapone. Italian imports are also recommended.
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Matthew in reply to comment from sylvia gould
04/11/2010 06:06 PM
Sylvia--there is one brand of marscapone that is commonly available that I find always to be grainy and seems to separate--you can't even whip it smooth, although it tastes fine. Can't remember the name of the brand off the top of my head because I stopped buying it! But anyway, I bet it was the cheese.
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sylvia gould in reply to comment from Rose Levy Beranbaum
04/11/2010 12:29 PM
i did, i had her make the black bottom tiramasu recipe of yours except i make them in parfaits( yummy) the marscapone was at room temp but for some reason had separated when she whipped it ( she had not added any of the tempered eggs yet) I wasnt sure what had happened, usually i slowly whip the marscapone for just a few seconds on low speed then slowly add the cooled egg mixture. i havent ever had a problem. This happened once before when she had made it but, she said both were at room temp. So i dont understand what may have happened ... she thought in retopspect it was the gelatin order and i said no this recipe is tried and true. I ;m sorry to be so inquisitive but, was at a loss as to what she may have done, ...not that she had done anything maybe it was the marscapone itself a bad batch?
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Rose in reply to comment from sylvia gould
04/11/2010 12:14 PM
sylvia, you should suggest to your friend to try it without having the gelatin warmed and watch how it lumps up compared to when its warm. then she'll understand that it's just the right amount of warm cream to cool off just right when added to the rest of the cream to gelatinize the cream evenly. most ppl need to see something done, or better still do it themselves, to understand concepts fully.
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sylvia gould
04/11/2010 10:25 AM
Rose, a friend of mine didnt understand the concept of adding bloomed/melted/warmed gelatin to whipped cream in some recipes, (she has just graduated from pastry school). From the view point it would gelatinize upon contact with the chilled whipped cream.
i understood why it may seem odd to do this w/ gelatins properties. But, i told her it was how your recipe worked and it worked well for me in many recipes including stabilized whip ect. that there were many different ways to approach recipes. It also has always tweaked my curiosity as well. Since i am self taught through the, (very much appreciated), use of your cake bible, pastry bible, heavenly cakes, and chocolate passion books among many others. i wonder if you might be able to answer this? Since i could not. I love it though! Thanks again for all your wonderful inspiration! peace and smiles Sylvia
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Rose
04/10/2010 10:00 PM
Of course chemex! The most beautiful coffee ppt ever made. Thanks for the correction.
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meryl ankori
04/10/2010 03:55 PM
Rose - I think that's a Chemex coffee pot - still made in Pittsfield, Ma - a fact those of us in the Berkshires are really proud of!!
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Hector
04/10/2010 02:44 PM
Thank you for sharing a great photo of your deep passion wedding cake, and what GREAT food from Daniel P. I enjoyed the sense of nature on each plate, and I feel humble and honored at the same time to had given a chance to retake his wedding cake with my nature!
http://www.realbakingwithrose.com/2009/07/hectors_preview_two_from_roses.html
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