Rice Bran Oil & Fried Clams
Oct 30, 2010 | From the kitchen of Rose
When I meet with my dear friend Leslie Harlib, who is a brilliant food writer in the Bay Area of San Francisco, I have to have a note pad because she is so forthcoming with fantastic information and ideas. On her most recent visit to New York she mentioned her excitement about rice bran oil, telling me that it had many virtues and that I must try it.
I decided that a fair test would be both savory and sweet so I made deep fried clams and lemon chiffon cake.
I've been working on the perfect recipe for fried clams for a while now. Thanks to my friend Sam at the Lobster Place on Bleecker Street, I was able to pick up some steamer clams. First try he actually shelled them for me which is not an easy task for this type of clam. I found it was best to steam before frying--just enough to have them open on their own, as that kept the clam intact.
The fried clams were a perfect golden brown with not a trace of greasiness (of course temperature is also a factor here as too low a temperature results in absorption of any oil).
Here's my recipe for Fried Clams:
30 steamers (about 2 1/3 pounds)
The one problem with steamers is that they are invariably sandy. There are two ways to deal with this:
1) About 2 hours before cooking use a stiff brush to scrub the outer shell under cold running water. Fill a large bowl with 1 gallon of water and stir in 1/3 cup of salt and 1 tablespoon of cornmeal. Add the clams, refrigerate, and allow them to soak for about 1 hour. This will cause them to expel any sand. OR
2) After steaming the clams just until they are open, strain the liquid and use it to wash any sand from the clams.
Method:
Steam the clams for about 3 minutes or just until they open. Remove the clams from their shells.
In a shallow dish, stir together 1.7 ounces/50g cornmeal, 1.7 ounces/50 g all purpose flour (about 1/3 cup of each), and 1/2t salt.
Lightly combine 1 whole egg with 3 tablespoons of evaporated milk. Dip the clams first in this mixture and then coat in the cornmeal mixture.
Heat oil to 350ºF/177Cº. Fry the clams in two batches for about 2 minutes or just until golden. Drain onto paper towels and salt to taste. Serve with a lemon wedge to squeeze on them just before eating.
I was most interested to see what would happen with the chiffon cake as some oils impair foaming and result in a less airy texture. As you can see, the crumb was slightly more open but perfectly spongy and excellent.
Here are some interesting facts from the California Rice Oil Co.:
Rice oil is the healthiest oil on earth, rich in a natural occurring viatmin E complex (tocopherols and tocotrienols, a unique antioxidant known as gamma oryzanol). Skin & muscle are a couple things that reap the benefits from this complex.
There's been many studies proving the lowering of LDL "bad" cholestrerol. Rice oil is trans-fat free & hypo-allergenic & additionally, our rice oil is GMO free as well.
Comparing known vegetable oils and rice bran oil to the fatty acid profile recommended by the American Heart Association, we find RBO is the closest to the AHA recommendations. Compared to other oils RBO is the most "balanced fat" which is easier for the body to digest & process throughout.
Rice bran oil has a shelf life of minimum 18 months and it is recommended to keep it in a cupboard or pantry at room temperature and away from direct sunlight (as with most oils).
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Bill in reply to comment from Rose Levy Beranbaum
12/08/2010 04:44 PM
And...that's why we love you
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Rose Levy Beranbaum in reply to comment from Bill
12/08/2010 02:29 PM
see what a nice person i am--that i promote them even though they don't me (hahaha). i wouldn't want to deprive all of you of such an excellent source.
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Bill in reply to comment from Rose Levy Beranbaum
12/08/2010 02:22 PM
Oh...and Rose...I usually thank you for your recipes when I try a new one...and I forgot...I got so caught up in the store. Thank your for the wonderful recipe! Even I enjoyed it very much (and I don't like chestnuts!). I wouldn't sweat the fact that they aren't carrying your books. The way they have them behind the counter, and the general clientele in the store...it is unlikely that anyone would even see them there. (and definitely don't send them a Free-bee...shame on them for not promoting your book when you promote their store)
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Rose Levy Beranbaum in reply to comment from Bill
12/08/2010 01:13 PM
thanks bill for the great detailed report. one of the owners asked me to give him a copy of my latest book--actually i had always sent them an advance copy--but he would not commit to carrying it so i decided to let him buy his own copy!
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Bill in reply to comment from Bill
12/08/2010 11:28 AM
Good morning Rose.
OK...went to Kalustyan. They did indeed have the chestnut flour and they had the French canned Chestnuts (I was looking for a shortcut for the puree for the frosting since I was making a small cake/trial run). The place was certainly overwhelming but I will say that the staff knew where everything was...and was indeed helpful. I was very impressed with the store. I don't really cook much middle eastern/Indian dishes but it was very helpful in this situation. When I mentioned your books, they- all of a sudden- didn't speak much English. Not sure if they were avoiding the issue or really didn't know what I was talking about. So I got home and set to work on the cake. I did indeed enjoy it...and I don't like chestnuts. My other-half commented on the lovely texture as well as the taste. It was definitely a hit in our house. I think I'm going to try the chestnut neoclassic buttercream next time rather than the simple buttercream ...just a texture thing for me...we'll see. In any event...it was a hit
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Bill in reply to comment from Rose Levy Beranbaum
12/07/2010 05:20 PM
Will definitely pass on the info. I'm on my way. Will report back tomorrow.
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Rose Levy Beranbaum in reply to comment from Bill
12/07/2010 05:13 PM
they sell all manner of mid eastern cookbooks but now that they are carrying so many ingredients such as the passion purée, chestnut flour etc and other things that are listed in my book they should sell the book along with the other ones you will see at the counter.
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Bill in reply to comment from Rose Levy Beranbaum
12/07/2010 05:09 PM
Carrying your book? Not clear as to what I should tell them.
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Rose Levy Beranbaum in reply to comment from Bill
12/07/2010 05:05 PM
OMG bill--this will be a life-changing visit! i didn't realize you didn't know about it. tell them theyr'e listed in my book and why aren't they carrying it along with other ones please!
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Bill in reply to comment from Anonymous
12/07/2010 05:03 PM
Dear Anonymous...not sure who you are...but I didn't know that Kalustyan had a store. And yes...it is in NY...it is on the way home, I called them, and they have it. Yahoo! No longer crabby.
Thanks.
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Anonymous in reply to comment from Bill
12/07/2010 02:53 PM
Bill, there's a good chance they would also have it in their store. You could call and check.
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Bill in reply to comment from Anonymous
12/07/2010 02:21 PM
thanks...I was trying to get it for today...but I will order it online...and wait as patiently as I can.
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Anonymous in reply to comment from Bill
12/07/2010 02:16 PM
The flour is listed on the Kalustyan website.
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Bill in reply to comment from Rose Levy Beranbaum
12/07/2010 02:15 PM
Just got off the phone with Dean and Deluca. I waited on hold for a REALLLLLLLLLLY long time to be told "we have almond flour and walnut flour". OK...I may be splitting hairs here...but did I ask for almond flour or walnut flour? (I'm a bit crabby today as you can see). It's like when I go into a shoe store (I have tiny feet) and ask for a 6 1/2 and they come out with a 7 1/2.
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Rose Levy Beranbaum in reply to comment from Bill
12/07/2010 11:21 AM
you may not be patient but you have many...(patients!)
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Bill
12/07/2010 10:56 AM
Thanks...I'll give Dean and DeLuca a call. If they don't have it...I'll just mail order it and I'll have to wait (I'm basically not a patient person LOL)
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Rose Levy Beranbaum in reply to comment from Bill
12/07/2010 10:25 AM
bill, years ago i got it at dean and deluca. it's hard getting through to their number but sometimes it works to call. i hope they still have it as i can't imagine who else might. i actually brought some back from italy last time i was their. oh wait--this is mail order but in the source section of RHC pastry chef central, chef shop or chef warehouse. in ny maybe even kalustyan--it seems these days they have just about everything--not just mid eastern things--even passion purée!
let us know if you find it. even if you don't like chestnuts i think you'll love this cake!
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Bill
12/07/2010 10:12 AM
OOPS. sorry posted this in the wrong place
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Bill
12/07/2010 10:02 AM
Good morning Rose. Quick question, if you have a moment. I was hoping to make the chestnut sand cake for the first time. Planning on serving it for Christmas, but of course I was going to give it a trial run (i'm sure it's delicious, but chestnut is not always my favorite flavor). Anyway, I went to Williams-Sonoma, and they no longer carry chestnut flour. I went to Whole Foods and they are out of it (the entire chain)...and their vendor is out of it...said they have no idea when they will get it. Food Emporium and D'Agostino's don't carry it. Any Ideas where I might get it on my way home today. Was hoping to make the cake tonight.
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Rachel Veroni
11/08/2010 03:03 PM
Hi Rose,
I tried your fried clam recipe with rice oil & it was great! I didn't feel guilty at all when using a healthy oil.
I found rice oil in my local store, Berkeley Bowl - it is the California Rice Oil brand.
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June
11/01/2010 09:45 PM
Hi, Rose! It just so happens that I have become interested in trying out rice bran oil and have done some research on the subject. We have a large rice production here in Arkansas and Riceland Rice in Stuttgart actually produces the oil. I found it online here:
http://www.riceland.com/consumers/gifts/details.asp?pid=77 and at a very (to me) reasonable price! I haven't ordered any because I wasn't sure I wanted to invest in 6 gallons but I might just try it now if I can find someone to share it with. Thanks for the info!
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Rose Levy Beranbaum in reply to comment from Teresa
11/01/2010 04:21 PM
rice flour gets rancid very quickly so it's important to store it in the freezer.
i use it to dust bannetons for bread as it's the best for preventing sticking. i've tried it in shortbread cookies and though it makes them more crisp i prefer the flavor of wheat flour.
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Teresa
11/01/2010 04:19 PM
Hi Rose,
Wow thanks for the tip on getting the sand out~! There was a great article in the SF Chronicle yesterday about using Rice Flour & Rice Oil. Just wondering what your thoughts are on Rice Flour.
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Jenn in reply to comment from Rose Levy Beranbaum
11/01/2010 12:52 PM
How awesome Rose! The chiffon cake looks so great. I've actually never heard of Rice Oil before, so now will be on the lookout to get some.
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Mimi Veroni
11/01/2010 12:38 PM
I've seen Rice Oil pop up in many restaurants the last few years. We've done several side by side tests from salad dressings to deep fry and found Rice Oil to be light in weight and flavor, giving the food and other ingredients a chance to shine. Being Italian, we've used Olive Oil for many applications but now have adapted Rice Oil into most recipes. A new fave is dipping rustic bread into Rice Oil laden with fresh sliced garlic & rosemary. This oil should be in mainstream stores.
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Rose Levy Beranbaum in reply to comment from Julie
11/01/2010 11:02 AM
so nice to be appreciated! i reap the benefits too!
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Julie
11/01/2010 07:40 AM
What a wonderful article! It's great that you tested both frying and baking applications. You're always so thorough and meticulous, and we're the ones who reap the benefits. Thank you.
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Jose Lugo
10/31/2010 12:40 AM
Cook's Illustrated published a small article on this oil. It says that this oil is much better for cooking than canola oil. Let me quote from their review:
"Produced in Thailand, the rice bran oil imported by California Rice Oil Company is available in specialty markets and natural foods stores. Oils with a high smoke point (such as canola and peanut) are recommended for high-heat cooking techniques such as stir-frying and pan-frying. The higher the smoke point, the less likely the oil is to burn.
To compare rice bran oil to canola oil, we placed 2 tablespoons of canola in a cold skillet and set it over high heat. After 3 minutes and 30 seconds, the oil began to smoke, and the pan registered 456 degrees on an infrared thermometer. (Peanut oil also has a smoke point of about 450 degrees.) When we repeated the test with rice bran oil, it took almost 4 minutes for the oil to smoke, and the pan registered 497 degrees.
Rice bran oil won the smoke point test; how about a taste test? We compared canola and rice bran oil in three applications: a basic vinaigrette, a beef stir-fry, and a pan-fried breaded chicken cutlet. In all three tests, the rice bran oil passed with flying colors. When the oils were heated, the differences were even more striking. The beef and chicken cooked in canola oil tasted “heavier” and “more oily” compared with those cooked in rice bran oil. The bottom line: At 12 cents per ounce for rice bran oil (versus 6 cents per ounce for canola oil), we think it’s worth the expense, especially when sautéing or pan-frying."
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Katie@Cozydelicious
10/30/2010 10:42 PM
Thank you for the info and recipe tests. I've been wondering about rice bran oil for a while but haven't tried it out yet. Great to know that it is so versitile.
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