Buttecream Rules!

Mar 03, 2012 | From the kitchen of Rose

Isn't it grand! Thanks to the availability of Safest Choice Pasteurized Eggs I can now say yes when people ask if it's safe to make a buttercream.

This week I presented my favorite yellow butter cake frosted with Neoclassic Buttercream at a press event for Safest Choice Pasteurized Eggs.

Classic buttercream is a silken smooth and buttery mixture made by beating a hot sugar syrup into egg yolks. Once the mixture is completely cool, softened butter is beaten in and then flavoring such as vanilla, liqueur, fruit purées, or chocolate.

The syrup needs to be 238˚F/114˚C in order to create the correct thickness of the egg yolks. This necessitates an accurate instant read thermometer. But many years ago, I discovered that there is a very easy way to produce a sugar syrup of the proper temperature and consistency without needing a thermometer! The technique is simply to use the correct proportion of granulated sugar to corn syrup. When brought to a full rolling boil the temperature is exactly 238˚F/114˚C!

There are only two problems I have encountered from readers and bloggers over the years:

1. If the syrup is not brought to a full rolling boil, which means the entire surface of the syrup is bubbling, it will not be hot enough to set the yolks.

2. If the egg yolk and syrup mixture has not cooled completely to the touch the butter, when added, will melt instead of emulsify into a smooth cream. Once this happens it is impossible to restore.

Here is the recipe and also the link to the video from my PBS show "Baking Magic with Rose."

Neoclassic Buttercream

Makes 4 cups/35 ounces/996 grams

INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
	volume	ounces	grams
6 large egg yolks, preferably Safest Choice Pasteurized	3.5 fluid ounces	4 ounces	112 grams
sugar	3/4 cup	5.2 ounces	150 grams
corn syrup	1/2 cup (4 fluid ounces)	5.7 ounces	164 grams
unsalted butter (65˚ to 75˚F/19˚C to 23˚C)	4 sticks	1 pound	454 grams
optional: liqueur or eau-de-vie of your choice	2 to 4 tablespoons	1 to 2 ounces	28 to 56 grams

Have ready a 2 cup or larger heatproof glass measure lightly coated with nonstick cooking spray near the range.

In a medium bowl, beat the yolks with an electric mixer until light in color. In a small saucepan (preferably with a nonstick lining) stir together the sugar and corn syrup with a silicone spatula until all the sugar is moistened. Heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves and the syrup begins to boil around the edges. Stop stirring and continue cooking for a few minutes until the syrup comes to a full rolling boil. (The entire surface will be covered with large bubbles.) Immediately transfer the syrup to the glass measure to stop the cooking.

Beat the syrup into the yolks in a steady stream. Don't allow syrup to fall on the beaters or they will spin it onto the sides of the bowl. (If using a stand mixer, pour a small amount of syrup over the yolks with the mixer turned off. Immediately beat on high speed for 5 seconds. Stop the mixer and add a larger amount of syrup. Beat on high speed for 5 seconds. Continue with the remaining syrup. For the last addition, use a rubber scraper to remove the syrup clinging to the glass measure.) Continue beating for 5 minutes. Then allow it to cool completely. To speed cooling, place it in an ice-water water bath or the refrigerator, stirring occasionally.

When cool beat in the butter, by the tablespoon, on medium-high speed. The buttercream will not thicken until almost all of the butter has been added. Add the optional liqueur, and beat on low speed until it is incorporated.

rose Levy Beranbaum in reply to comment from Allen Cohn
05/03/2012 10:01 AM

you're in for a real surprise when you see the posting on saturday morning!

Allen Cohn in reply to comment from mariel
05/03/2012 09:41 AM

Cook's Illustrated did a test of pasteurized egg whites back in May, 2006. They found the whipping results varied considerably by brand, and most were terrible. Of the ones they tested, only the very expensive Eggology 100% Egg Whites performed acceptably for buttercream...though not as good as regular egg whites.

rose Levy Beranbaum in reply to comment from mariel
05/03/2012 08:57 AM

mariel, a great solution will be posted this saturday morning on the blog!

mariel
05/03/2012 08:47 AM

Have been using Pasturized eggs as Rose suggested, but find I cannot make whites whip up to make buttercream. What am I doing wrong? Since I bake for shut-ins, I love the idea of using these eggs.

Woody Wolston in reply to comment from Allen Cohn
04/04/2012 01:50 AM

Hi Allen,
We will say that the buttercreams with yolks are more flavorful on their own and are usually denser. Virtually all buttercreams can incorporate a wide range of flavor enhancements from chocolate to passion fruit.

Woody Wolston in reply to comment from Phoebe
04/04/2012 01:42 AM

Hi Phoebe,
We would say it is at the other end of the spectrum for buttercreams as this is yolk based and not whipped. It is also denser and more flavorful. We suggest that you make a small quantity of both to frost a cake so you can compare.

Allen Cohn
04/03/2012 10:35 PM

Some butter creams use egg yolks...some egg whites...and some whole eggs. Can you suggest some rules of thumb on when each is most appropriate?

Thanks,
Allen

Phoebe
03/23/2012 10:13 AM

This looks like a really great buttercream, is its texture and taste similar to swiss meringue buttercream? thank you for all your fabulous recipes!

Healthy Desserts
03/06/2012 03:08 AM

Awesome page, I was actually having a hard time looking for the perfect recipe for butter cream, thanks so much, I'm going to try this myself. I just hope I will get it right the first time, :)

Jose Lugo
03/04/2012 04:37 PM

I think I will now give your recipe for mayonnaise a try! Yay, for safest choice pasteurized eggs!

rose levy beranbaum in reply to comment from Margie
03/04/2012 09:26 AM

Yes!

Margie
03/04/2012 01:51 AM

Do you mean Tate and Lyle's Syrup?

Rose Levy Beranbaum in reply to comment from orin
03/04/2012 12:07 AM

Yes orin--refiners syrup also know as golden syrup is excellent.

orin
03/04/2012 12:04 AM

I would love to make this butter cream. but, is there any suitable substitute to the corn syrup?

Thank you, and as always i enjoy much from your blog.

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Welcome to Real Baking with Rose, the personal blog of author Rose Levy Beranbaum.

Spend A Moment with Rose, in this video portrait by Ben Fink.

Heavenly Cake Bake Along

Hector's Take on Rose's Cakes

Buttecream Rules!