A Neighborhood Gem
May 26, 2012 | From the kitchen of Rose
Il Buco Alimentari & Vineria (Market & Restaurant)
What a joy to discover that the neighborhood has a new and exceptional restaurant a mere 7 minute walk away. Donna Lennard's Il Buco Alimentari & Vineria, located next to it's sister restaurant Il Buco, at 53 Great Jones Street just off the Bowery, is a real treasure of fabulous food and appealingly rustic Italian ambiance. What a rare treat to find every dish I've tasted, creatively and lovingly prepared (from the house made salumi, to the exquisite pastry) and just what it should be in the best of all possible culinary worlds. Even the cappuccino (which I so often find disappointing in restaurants) was perfection.
Il Buco Alimentari & Vineria boasts a stellar crew which includes Executive Chef Justin Smillie who served as Chef de Cuisine at Jonathan Waxman's Barbuto; Pastry Chef Keren Weiner, formerly Pastry Sous Chef at Gramercy Tavern, and Chanterelle; Baker Kamel Saci from Bordeaux, who prepares the restaurant and market's outstanding long-fermentation breads, all made with organic flour; General Manager Luca Pasquinelli, formerly the Wine Director at Mario Batali's Babbo, and Manager Daniel Freeman who chefed at the famed L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon at the Four Season's Hotel. Is it any wonder that the food is so extraordinary!
Here are some details and photos of my recent delights:
THE BEST FRIED BABY ARTICHOKES EVER, BLANCHED IN SALTED LEMON WATER, THEN STEEPED IN OLIVE OIL BEFORE FRYING TO A SUCCULENT GOLDEN CRISP
hey are blanched in salted acidulated water then steeped in extra virgin olive oil. Then drained off and fried.
HOUSE MADE RICOTTA WITH SALTY MARCONA ALMONDS, RHUBARB JAM, AND HONEY
ARTISAN BREAD WITH GOAT CHEESE AND MULBERRY JAM
AN ORGANIC EGG BAKED INSIDE LACY FILONE BREAD WITH TOMATO JAM
SALUMI: JAMON IBERICO FROM SPAIN, SAUSAGES, AND SILKY AROMATIC SWEET LARDO
WHITE CHOCOLATE BRIOCHE
FLAKY BUTTERY AND TART RHUBARB TART
On my second visit, I ordered the porchetta sandwich with substantial bits of crunchy skin, on buns that had been rolled in ground oats before baking to form a deliciously crisp crust, but also loved my friend's honeyed moist crunchy rabbit.
And who do you suppose came in and happened to be seated at the table right next to mine but Georgio Delucca of Dean and Delucca fame. I hadn't seen him in many years so it was a delight to get to chat briefly with this old friend who had so significantly changed the way New Yorkers and then much of the rest of the country eat with his innovative store Dean and DeLucca. And if anyone knows where the food's going to be great it's Georgio, which lessened the surprise of finding him at Il Buco A & V. I intend to return soon to try the soft shell crab sandwich while they are still in season.
Il Buco Vineria is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The Alimentari (market) offers it's house-cured salumi, artisan bread, house-made pasta, gelato, and numerous specialty food items imported from Italy.
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Woody Wolston in reply to comment from Annie Lim
06/10/2012 11:31 PM
Hi Annie,
We always recommend to use a standard tube pan as the chiffon needs to adhere to the walls as well as the bottom to produce good results. If the author of the recipe is claiming you can use a non-stick tube pan, you may want to contact the author for advice.
REPLY
Annie Lim
06/10/2012 11:16 PM
Hi.
I tried using a non-stick tube pan to bake a banana chiffon cake. When I invert the cake to let it cool, the whole cake slides down immediately and was flatten.
Plse adv if there is a better way to cool the cake.
Tks/Annie
REPLY
Woody Wolston in reply to comment from Mari
06/03/2012 12:15 PM
Hi Mari,
In general, Rose's posted restaurant reviews are for the telling of the experience and menu recommendations for those who may want to visit the restaurant. We do not ask for a recipe unless we are thinking of presenting it in some form for a future book, which we then give full credit to the chef and/or restaurant.
We suggest doing a web search for fried artichokes to find something similar to the technique described under the photograph.
REPLY
Mari
06/02/2012 09:23 PM
The fried artichokes look fabulous , but I don't see the recipe....is it available?
REPLY
Woody Wolston in reply to comment from dianne
06/01/2012 06:02 PM
Hi Dianne,
We are sorry to say that it cannot be made in the home. Gold Medal uses a patented process called agglomeration to produce Wondra flour. That is why you do not see other manufacturers offering a similar product.
REPLY
dianne
06/01/2012 05:18 PM
I have most of your books. In the pastry bible you speak of better results with Wondra flour in some cases. That is hard to come by here and if you can find it it's usually real old. Can you suggest how I can make my own?? Thank you!
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ricardo
05/31/2012 08:58 AM
I love the reviews of the restaurants that Rose visits. She should have a column in the NYT.
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Bill
05/29/2012 07:44 AM
Thanks for the post/review. Will definitely put this place on my list!
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Hector
05/27/2012 02:13 PM
Delightful!!!! Thx for sharing. I did not know places like these existed in the USA!!! Oh my, I got me at the sweet lardo!
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Sprouted Ancient Grains Flour
A Merrier World Indeed...