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A Sublime New Cookie for the Holidays

Nov 3, 2014 | From the kitchen of Rose

COOKIE.jpg

It is a rare treat these days to meet with friends and to have dinner in New York City, so when my long time dearest friend and protégé David Shamah and I planned a special reunion and celebration, the restaurant we chose was Drew Nierporent's new Bâtard. We had a very early 5:45 reservation which we loved because we had a whole hour of quiet conversation before the restaurant filled to capacity and the noise level rose.

We were offered a glass of excellent champagne while we perused the menu and enjoyed the lovely decor and perfect subdued lighting (note the exquisite plaster bas-relief walls behind David in this photo).

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My appetizer was a silken and flavorful work of art:

YELLOWFIN TUNA
marinated radish, quinoa, bok choi

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David's appetizer was a richly luxurious terrine:

SHORT RIB & TAFELSPITZ TERRINE
smoked egg, german sesame, apple

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For the main course, we shared a fabulous Colorado lamb dish:

LAMB FOR TWO
roasted rack, confit shoulder, crispy lamb bacon, turnips, grilled lemon

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Instead of ordering two desserts, we decided to share the epiosse--my favorite cheese:

EPOISSES
mushroom vinaigrette, cipollini, grilled baguette

followed by:
CARAMELIZED MILK BREAD
blueberries, brown butter ice cream

The milk bread was a delicious combination of soft, moist, and airy interior coated with a gossamer-fine crust of wondrously brittle sugar.

And just as we thought we had fnished, chef Markus Glocker sent out the amazing Lubeck marzipan cookies. As a non-marzipan lover I was blown away by how perfect these were. The virtue of marzipan is how it keeps its moisture so that the insides of the cookies are moist, creamy, and chewy, the topping crunchy with sliced almonds and lightly browned marzipan. But what elevated them to exceptional perfection of balance was the unexpected highlight of salt. Here is the recipe for you to enjoy for your holiday baking. I encourage you to purchase the Lubeck marzipan which is imported by Swiss Chalet Fine Foods from Germany. (They also carry Darbo--the best apricot preserves.) It has the most silken texture and delicious flavor of any marzipan I've ever tasted. Note: Any leftover marzipan can be frozen for months. Also, I tested the recipe with unblanched almonds, as that is what I had on hand, and liked the added flavor and color contrast.

In Austria and Germany this type of cookie is called "marzipan horns" because they are usually shaped to suggest horns, but I've renamed them in honor of the marvelous chef and restaurant: Glocker Marzipan Bâtards.

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Makes: (24) 2 inch cookies


Preheat oven to 350°F/175°C
twenty minutes or longer before baking the cookies.

Set an oven rack at the middle level.
Bake 12 to 14 minutes


Special Equipment: One 17-1/4 by 12-1/4 by 1 inch half sheet pan, or 15 by 12 inch cookie sheet, lined with parchment

INGREDIENTS

MEASURE

WEIGHT

volume

ounces

grams

marzipan, preferably Lubeck

a slightly rounded 3/4 cup

8.8 ounces

250 grams

superfine sugar

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons

4.4 ounces

125 grams

honey

1 tablespoons plus 1/2 teaspoon

0.9 ounce

25 grams

1 large egg white

2 tablespoons

1 ounce

30 grams

sliced amonds

1 cup

3.2 ounces

90 grams

apricot preserves, strained (see Note below)

3 tablespoons

2.2 ounces

62 grams

water

3/4 teaspoon

.

.

sea salt, preferably Maldon

1/2 teaspoon

-

-

In the bowl of a stand mixer, add the marzipan, sugar, honey, and egg white. Cover tightly and allow it to sit until all ingredients are room temperature--at least 30 minutes.

Attach the flat beater and mix on low speed for 1 to 2 minutes until all the ingredients are smoothly combined. Scrape the mixture into a medium bowl, cover tightly, and refrigerate for 2 or up to 24 hours.

Arrange the sliced almonds on a sheet pan or large plate, in a single layer.

Have a small bowl of water on the counter to moisten your fingers and palms lightly, which will help prevent the marzipan mixture from sticking.

Scoop out 24pieces of dough. If weighing, each will be 17 grams. Roll each piece of dough between the palms of your hands (lightly moistened with water) to form a ball about 1 inch in size.

Roll the balls in the almonds to coat them and then press them down into the almonds to flatten to 1/2 inch high by 1-1/2 inch in diameter.

Set each cookie a minimum of 1 inch apart on the parchment lined pan.

Bake the cookies for 6 minutes. Rotate the pan and continue baking for 6 to 8 minutes until lightly browned and when pressed in the center they have only a slight amount of give.

Remove the pan to a rack and allow the cookies to cool for 10 minutes before brushing them with apricot glaze.

In a small microwavable bowl or cup, combine the strained apricot preserves and 3/4 teaspoon of water and heat until just beginning to bubble. (Alternatively heat them in a small saucepan over low heat.)

Brush a very thin layer of apricot onto each cookie. You will need only about 2 tablespoons of the glaze. Then sprinkle with the salt, crushing any large flakes between your thumb and index finger.

Allow the cookies to cool for 20 minutes before serving.

Store at room temperature or refrigerated. They will stay soft and chewy for about 1 week. To store the cookies, place them in an airtight container with parchment sheets between each layer of cookies.

Note re the apricot preserves: You will need to start with about 4-1/2 tablespoons/3 ounces/87 grams of preserves to get 3 tablespoons/2.2 ounces/62 grams of strained preserves.

Comments

Rose Levy Beranbaum
Rose Levy Beranbaum in reply to comment from CCG
06/27/2017 09:42 AM

CCG the glaze might be very slightly sticky but if allowed to air dry it's generally not. i suspect it's the Houston humiditiy! so glad you like them as much as we do!

REPLY

Thanks for the help--they turned out great! But I do have a question, do they remain sticky? With the glaze, even dried, they seem sticky. Of course Houston has high humidity! I stored them in an airtight container inside a cold oven. Now I've put them in the refrig to see if that will help, but I'm concerned about condensation when they come back to room temperature. My husband loved them! I am also a lazy baker, so I rolled the dough into a long strand, maybe 18" by 1" to 1 1/2" and refrigerated over night,then used my smallest cookie scoop. I got 30 cookies slightly less than 2" in diameter. A perfect "bite"! Can't wait to try them again.

REPLY

Rose Levy Beranbaum
Rose Levy Beranbaum in reply to comment from CCG
06/19/2017 06:06 PM

CCG, absolutely yes--in fact i have some in the freezer right now that i keep planning to turn into cookies!

REPLY

Can the dough for these cookies be made in advance and frozen, then thawed to make the cookie balls? Thank you for your time.

REPLY

Rose Levy Beranbaum
Rose Levy Beranbaum
02/14/2015 05:44 PM

Pattyk, just click on the red link on the posting and it will take you to the place that sells it on line. alternatively, The Cake Bible has a recipe for "quintessential marzipan."

REPLY

Rose
I have been unable to locate Lübeck marzipan anywhere on the internet.
Is there a reasonable way to make it myself?
If you have a recipe for it I would be so grateful.
Thanks

REPLY

Rose Levy Beranbaum
Rose Levy Beranbaum in reply to comment from Edin
12/12/2014 10:30 PM

Edin, you are well on your way to becoming a baker as you've learned an important lesson instead of giving up. When you try the cookies with the Lubeck marzipan you will astonished by the difference and delighted by the results. Thank you for getting to the bottom of the problem.

REPLY

It must be the marzipan: it was not Lubeck marzipan and upon-further-review I realize it is not even some other "raw marzipan" -- it was Odense Marzipan Almond Candy Dough which certainly has already sugar built-in, causing my final product to just be a caramelized hard candy. I am ordering the raw lubeck marzipan for my next batch.
Btw. I am a novice baker and maybe should have picked an easier recipe for my first ever cookie baking. :-)
Thanks for your help and looking forward to trying out different recipes from this great site.

REPLY

Rose Levy Beranbaum
Rose Levy Beranbaum in reply to comment from Edin
12/12/2014 05:16 PM

Edin, a few thoughts: did you use the Lubeck marzipan? possibly other brands would have a softer consistency. did you weigh the ingredients? i would try just baking one cookie at a colder temperature to see if that helps. if not then it has to be the type of marzipan. also, if it took longer to bake than specified in the recipe, that would mean the oven was not hot enough to set the dough quickly enough.

REPLY

Tried the recipe and mine totally flattened out -- almost paper thin, tasted like hard candy. Followed the recipe to a t. I had the dough in the fridge for 2.5 hours and then rolled all 24 balls before I coated them in almonds and baked them. Is it possible the dough was out too long and warmed up too much? Any suggestions would be appreciated, since I love this cookie from the time I was living in Germany and want to get it right the next time. Thanks.

REPLY

Rose Levy Beranbaum
Rose Levy Beranbaum
12/ 1/2014 03:36 PM

hi Stripes! almond paste is the base for marzipan. you could make your own marzipan---the recipe is in the Cake Bible or find one on Google but as i pointed out--the Lubeck marzipan is incomparable! thanks for writing--so glad you now have a recipe that i'm confident you will love!

REPLY

Have long searched for a recipe comparable to the chocolate dipped almond horns Financier Bakery used to serve. I have a 7 pound can of almond paste I bought last week in Chicago - with hopes of providing lots of practice material in my endeavors to copy cat the recipe. Alas, I now see I bought the wrong almond product but will be delighted none the less if this recipe proves to be a close enough likeness. Thanks so very much for sharing!

REPLY

What a wonderful cookie recipe just in time for the upcoming holiday season! This is one of my favorite type cookies made at two of our local bakeries, shaped like a horseshoe with each end dipped in chocolate. Can't wait to try my hand at making them!

REPLY

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