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My Passion is Ice Cream

Jun 3, 2017 | From the kitchen of Rose

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I love ice cream (don't we all?). But I also love making it to my own taste and texture. As many of you know, I am working on an ice cream book which is about two years from publication. In the process of researching ideas I have just discovered a recently published book that has really impressed me. Hello, My Name Is Ice Cream, is written by Dana Cree, a pastry chef at Publican in Chicago.


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Dana gracefully rides the cusp of hardcore scientist and fun filled best friend. And dear to my precision loving heart each ingredient is listed with its percentage of the entire base and under it is first the weight in grams and then the volume. How could I not feel right at home with this book!

Dana has addressed the great nemesis of homemade ice cream: iciness. Each recipe offers a choice of 4 different "texture agents" from commercial to cornstarch. They are numbered at the bottom of the page and the number and technique corresponds to where it appears in the recipe. This is design brilliance at its best and reflects the approach of a brilliant and original author.

In the front section of the book, Dana explains why the volume often does not correlate with the gram weight by saying: they are not direct conversions of each other; it didn't make sense to end up with wonky things like "1 cup minus a tablespoon plus a quarter teaspoon. I balanced each recipe within its own discipline....If you want the nuanced textures as I designed them, use a scale and measure your ingredients in grams. Otherwise stick with cups and spoons, which are a little more approximate. The ice cream will be no less delicious, just a touch less perfectly textured.

In a phone conversation, Dana told me that all the recipes were tested both by weight and by volume.

The first recipe I have tried from the book is the banana ice cream. The technique of infusing the very ripe (read blackened) banana in the dairy mixture intrigued me. On my first try, the flavor was blissfully pure banana but the texture was icy--my fault--I thought I could get away without a texturing agent. Dana recommended the cornstarch slurry "texture agent" to bind up some of the water, advising that if that didn't work fully to my satisfaction, I should simmer the dairy mixture for 2 to 5 minutes before adding the cornstarch slurry (to evaporate the water that turns to ice crystals). Since I only had one more black banana at the ready I did both, which produced a beautifully thickened base and sure enough--dense and creamy with not a trace of iciness. (My middle name is concentrating juices so why didn't I think of that?!)

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I thought I knew all about ice cream, having included many recipes in several of my books. In recent years I've added the technique of using glucose syrup for smoother texture, as does Dana. But reading this book is an exciting new frontier to explore and I'm so glad I was introduced to it before finishing my own book on the subject. I also am pleased to know of a colleague who is so delightfully talented, devoted to the success of the home baker as well as the professional, and feel like I've found a new and treasured kindred spirit and friend.

Hello, My Name Is Ice Cream: The Art and Science of the Scoop

Comments

Rose Levy Beranbaum
Rose Levy Beranbaum in reply to comment from Marion Ferguson
08/ 4/2017 10:52 PM

so glad you are both enjoying making ice cream from Dana's book and that you have the patience and enthusiasm to look forward to my ice creams in the not too distant future!

REPLY

Another note on Dana"s ice cream.
Have made several batches to date. I now use a 4 to 6 quart sauce pan for the base cooking. I then use a large heavy aluminum roaster for the ice. One inch of cold water, from the faucet, six or seven cups of ice cubes in the water. Place the sauce pan into the roaster and sir it continuously with a whisk for 15 to 20 minutes max. The ice cubes have all melted, the temp of the water is about 50 to 60 degrees, base is averaging 54 degrees. I strain it through a fine screen sieve into a glass bowel, place in the fridge. I keep it there normally overnight but have pushed that to 24 hours. Base has a temp of 36 to 37 degrees and requires just 25 to 30 minutes churning time in my machine.
BTW: Used Dana's Philadelphia Style base, flavored it with two teaspoons of vanilla extract and three drops of peppermint flavor. Colored it light green. Tried it after only four hours in freezer. If you like "Mint" of any kind, this will knock your socks off. Plan to "Dribble" mint flavored hot fudge over a dish maybe tomorrow.
Thanks Dana and Thank You again Rose!!!!!!

REPLY

This is a wonderful cookbook! I've made the bourbon butterscotch ice cream and just made the goat cheese ice cream this past weekend, serving it with Rose's red velvet cake made in the rose bundt pan. Dana's tips are terrific - it makes all the difference to use glucose and a stabilizer. In addition, I never thought about turning on my ice cream maker before adding the mixture to shorten the processing time, but it helps.

I can't wait to try new recipes, but am also looking forward to the publication of Rose's ice cream - and other - books.

REPLY

Rose Levy Beranbaum
Rose Levy Beranbaum in reply to comment from Sharon
07/27/2017 11:57 PM

Sharon--i'm so glad i found your comment in the spam folder! the good news is that cobasan is actually designed to stabilize whipped cream and buttercream and is only available in large quantities from albert uster imports. BUT, almost all commercial ice cream makers use cremodan and i discovered you can get a very small amount from kalustyans in NYC or they will ship you can ask to speak to donna abrams and tell her i told you about it: (212) 685-3451. other ppl may just know it as stabilizer but it is cremodan. use only 1 teaspoon per 1 quart of ice cream. but you must do 2 things: you must bring the custard to 180˚F and you must let it chill for a minimum of 8 hours before churning. by the way, you do need an ice cream maker for custard ice cream. i don't know where you got the idea from my book that you didn't need anything but the ingredients!

REPLY

I recently read Rose's book, "The Pie and Pastry Bible" and read about Cobasan.
I'm 70; I have made TONS of hard, icy, anything but creamy, ice cream. As I read the description I thought, Eureka!!! a new tool for making ice cream soft, without an expensive ice cream maker...just me, the ingredients and my freezer!
I called every supermarket, health foods store, Trader Joe's and Whole Foods. Then I called King Arthur; I am very determined. Nothing.
As a last effort, I went to Amazon, I truly believe if they don't have it, do you reeeeaaaly need it? Nada, zero, nothing.
More internet searching gives you not a clue about this elusive, magical product. Sooooooo, where do you get it?
Either give me the name of a retailer or just shoot me. In OKC we are currently under the heat dome, days of 100+ temps...

REPLY

An addendum to my original post.
I used Dana's Philadelphia Style base and added 1 1/2 cups of brown sugar. Plus 1 1/2 cups of Buttered Pecans into the machine five minutes before emptying into freezer tub. Mixture made enough volume with the pecans, I split into two batches. Couldn't keep my spoon out of the ice cream straight from the machine.
I tried nearly constant stirring with a whisk when cooling the hot base. Sauce pan into a fairly large metal, Dutch Oven pan with probably 6 cups of ice and one inch of cold water. Required less than half hour to cool to just above 50 degrees.

Squeeze bottle makes sense. Normally allow the base to be in fridge overnight. Since it was nearing 10:00 PM with 5 hours, I finished it. Delicious and very smooth. I wonder if the constant whisking when cooling would have anything to do with it being so smooth also.

I certainly have more things I need to do other than bake bread and make ice cream, it is so much fun. lol

Thank you Rose.

REPLY

Rose Levy Beranbaum
Rose Levy Beranbaum in reply to comment from Marion Ferguson
07/ 9/2017 01:33 PM

Marion--i so wish my ice cream book were coming out even sooner--so much to share. i do have a very different and stream-lined approach from any i've seen thus far. for now let me answer your two questions:

i keep my glucose in the fridge because it can ferment and should never have a wet spoon or any kind of contaminant. i put it in a squeeze bottle and if i forget to take it out of the fridge the night before i microwave it for about 7 seconds til soft enough to squeeze out easily. so yes--you can indeed heat it.

with the exception of cremodan which requires minimum 8 hours for the base to chill in the fridge, as long as the ice cream base comes to refrigerator temperature (38˚F to 43˚F) i find no difference in texture when churned.

REPLY

Marion Ferguson
Marion Ferguson
07/ 9/2017 12:23 PM

I have Dana's book on Ice Cream and have made Base/Philadelphia Style/Vanilla
twice. I added the vanilla as soon as I removed sauce pan from heat. Yes, I know, the alcohol probably burned off but the flavor was just about right on. Two teaspoons. Made Dana's Chocolate recipe yesterday. Only thing I done different was 4 oz. of Milk Chocolate to 2 ozs. of sweet dark. The taste is definitely too "Chocolatie" for our taste buds. I will use the base and add whatever chocolate I wish to use in a later batch.
Used Glucose and Cremodan. Ice cream is very smooth.
One question: The Glucose is stiff and difficult to use. Would a few minutes placing the 1/2 cup in a larger receptacle of hot water hurt anything?
I have read a few posts of folks finding difficulty with the need for so many bowels etc. It takes 5 to 10 pounds of ice to cool the base to 70 degrees plus 45 to 60 minutes. Has to be a better way. lol
I decided to set the hot sauce pan with the base into another larger sauce pan with the ice. Took 15 minutes off the cooling time. I believe it would take at least an hour and a half to cool to anywhere near 50 degrees called for in the recipe.
I tried 70 degrees to 80 degrees with no problems. I have also refrigerated the base for five hours to overnight with little to no difference.
I realize different air conditioning and atmosphere of our home kitchens can affect results.
Am waiting with baited breath for Rose's Ice Cream Book.

REPLY

Rose Levy Beranbaum
Rose Levy Beranbaum in reply to comment from vicki
06/10/2017 11:31 AM

thanks vicki! it's a hugely exciting but dangerously fattening project bc the ice cream one makes at home to one's own sweetness, flavor, and texture taste, is too delicious to throw out and difficult to give away unlike baked goods!!!

REPLY

Rose Levy Beranbaum
Rose Levy Beranbaum in reply to comment from annmartina
06/10/2017 11:30 AM

Annmartina, thanks for the feedback! i didn't know modernist had this stabilizer but i do know that Kalustyan's carries what they call ice cream stabilizer which they told me is cremodan and will soon be labeled as such. this is the stabilizer that is used by most professionals and from the description on the modernist site it appears to be the same-recommended to add to the sugar mixture of the base, then must be brought to 180F but what it doesn't say and what the cremodan site indicates is that it works best only when the base is allowed to chill for a minimum of 8 hours.

REPLY

I didn't know you are working on an ice cream book! Looking forward to this!

REPLY

I've made the donut ice cream twice using the Perfect Ice Cream stabilizer from modernist pantry. It was a huge hit at our employee ice cream social, where people were stumped as to what could make ice cream taste like a real donut. They didn't believe me when I told them I had dissolved a donut in the custard

REPLY

Anthony Stella
Anthony Stella
06/ 5/2017 07:51 AM

Loved reading about Dana Cree's new book and can't wait to get my hands on it.
Icy texture is interesting
The University of Delaware has opened a creamery near me and I stopped there yesterday.
That icy texture is what I experienced and I need to refer them to Dana's book.
Thank you

REPLY

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