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Orange Appeal

Sep 19, 2017 | From the kitchen of Rose

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Orange Appeal: Savory and Sweet

When I was growing up, my grandmother, who lived with us, squeezed me fresh orange juice every morning for breakfast. Nowadays, when I go to a restaurant for lunch, and don't want to fall asleep for the rest of the afternoon, I decline a glass of wine in favor of freshly squeezed orange juice if they have it. My husband tells me that the moment an orange is squeezed the vitamin C flies right out. I drink it quickly because it is so delicious. I don't really care if it's healthful or not! To me, the flavor of orange is an irresistibly satisfying balance of sweetness and zinginess. I have used it in just about every one of my own books. ("Orange Glow Chiffon" and "Love of Three Oranges" springs to mind, not to mention "Orange Buttercream.")

So you can imagine how excited I was to meet Jamie Schler this past April, at the International Association of Culinary Professionals conference in Kentucky, and to learn that she was about to publish her first book Orange Appeal. If that isn't a sexy title I don't know what is!

Jamie grew up in Florida, where, when it came to oranges, she had a lot more than a glass of orange juice every morning. She now lives in one of my favorite places in the world--Chinon, France, where she and her husband own Hôtel Diderot.
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When Orange Appeal arrived, it was a hard choice which two recipes to make as soon as possible so that I could share my thoughts about the book with you. Since I'm virtually surrounded by sweets every day, my first choice was a savory dish: "Orange-Braised Belgian Endives with Caramelized Onions and Bacon." She writes: Searing gently caramelizes the endives, braising in orange juice tames the bitter bite leaving just a hint of piquancy that marries well with the sweetness of the orange and the smoky, salty finishing touch of the caramelized onion and the lardons or bacon. And it was so fabulous I wanted to lick the plate (I used my finger to be polite since I wasn't alone). I will be making this dish again and again and again.

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I happen to adore financiers--the little two-bite egg white, almond flour, and butter cakes that are tender and flavorful so how could I resist one made with orange zest and orange flower water, and yes--they were divine.

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Jamie and her wonderful new book have become cherished friends and I look forward to the day when I can visit her in her paradise in Chinon. Meantime, there are lots more recipes to try. Mussels, orange juice, and fennel next in the hopper!
You can also visit her on her website.

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Comments

It's driving me crazy that we are having difficulty finding decent Belgian endive. I so want to try that particular dish and your description of it makes me even crazier.

Because for me, it was Jamie's savoury recipes that really hooked me. They're not sweet (like the horrifying sweet potatoes with way too much orange sauce that Mum used to make for Christmas dinner - or at least those orangey sweet potatoes were horrifying to me when I was finicky and 10 years old...), but instead they offer the wonderful flavour of orange without becoming at all cloying. I hope you try the focaccia and the roast chicken next. I can't believe how fabulous the roast chicken is....

REPLY

Rose Levy Beranbaum
Rose Levy Beranbaum
09/19/2017 09:26 AM

and/or jam!!!

i was planning this posting to go live on saturday but it flew away from me last night--it just couldn't wait to be shared by the world!

REPLY

I have tears in my eyes - thank you so much for the beautiful, wonderful review and I am more than thrilled that you wrote a review of Orange Appeal! And I am so very happy that we met and have become friends. Cherished, indeed. Yes, one day you will come to Chinon and we will bake together!

REPLY

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