Now days, those young chickens used for most of the industry’s egg production just don’t lay eggs with large yolks on average like the good old days. You all know that Rose is very precise in measuring ingredients as the benefits are consistent results. However, ingredients can change, in this case whole eggs. When Rose wrote The Bread Bible in 2003, an average large egg’s yolk weighed 18.6 grams and its whites weighed 31.4 grams. (We round off egg whites to 30 grams per egg as some may stick to the shell. Also, eggs on average can vary in weight.)
We are now seeing yolks ranging from as low as 12 grams (and rarely as high as 19 grams), and thus usually an increase in whites per whole egg. In The Baking Bible and Rose’s Baking Basics, we now give a range for egg yolks that may be required for an egg yolk based recipe.
When we made the Chocolate Domingo for this month’s recipe of the month, the Domingo had a pasty, fudgy 1/4 inch strip just above the bottom crust (the pictured cake slice on the right). I had taken the precaution to weigh the whole eggs and remove 12 grams in egg whites to hit the ingredient chart’s 100 grams for 2 large eggs, but the fudgy band still resulted.
So I made a second Domingo, this time separating the egg yolks and whites, which meant breaking a third egg to add 6 grams (16% percent) of the needed 37.2 grams for 2 egg yolks. This meant skimming off egg whites for reaching the 60 grams for 2 egg whites. The second cake came out beautifully, just like The Cake Bible’s .
1. The cake was a quarter inch higher
2. NO CHOCOLATE BAND at the bottom
3. Lighter in texture
We had previously experienced the effects of smaller yolks, resulting in a coarser texture for génoise cakes which use whipped whole eggs for their leavening and structure. You can read our article on our finding the solutions for whole egg génoise cakes.
Rose wrote an article for Food 52 for their 7/5/16 posting on her researching whole eggs. Here is the llink.