Peaches and Cream Kuchen Preview from "Rose's Baking Basics"

We don't want you to miss the season so we're offering this special recipe right now while the peaches are at their peak.

PEACHES AND CREAM KUCHEN is excerpted from ROSE’s BAKING BASICS © 2018 by Rose Levy Beranbaum. Photography © 2018 by Matthew Septimus. Reproduced by permission of Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. All rights reserved.

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"ROSE’S BAKING BASICS" BREAK THROUGHS PREVIEW

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When Michael Batterberry and Food Arts Magazine were still alive, and I had a new book coming out, he would always ask me if there were any new break throughs and there always were! He would then do a full page, featuring them in the magazine. So I am continuing the tradition by offering here a sampling of the top tips and techniques you will find in my newest book. 

Two of my most valued additions to this book are that on the charts, the grams come before the volume, and right after the chart there is a "mise en place" (set up of ingredients). The recipes are written exactly the way in which I bake. We love working from this new format.

* My favorite caramel sauce with amazing flavor and smooth texture that keeps for months:

* The best flour for pie crust and how to tenderize bleached or unbleached all-purpose flour.

* How to unmold tarts that have stuck to the bottom of the tart pan the easy way (what took me so long to figure out this ridiculously simple method)!

* How to keep the bottom crust of a custard pie such as pumpkin from getting soggy.

* How to use pie crust scraps to make the best rugelach and why it is the best.

* How to make cake strips for any size cake pans.

 * How to never ever risk over-whipping egg whites and why it’s fine to add the sugar and cream of tartar right from the beginning.

* Neoclassic Meringue—cousin to Neoclassic Buttercream. How it’s possible to make either one without a thermometer.

* How to salvage broken mousseline buttercream.

* How to make the silkiest smoothest dulce de leche the easiest way.

Neoclassic Mousseline Buttercream Has Arrived

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Our queen of buttercreams has a new version. A couple of days ago, Jean asked on our Ask a Question page if the neoclassic method used for the neoclassic buttercream could also be implemented for the mousseline buttercream. This method eliminated the need for a temperature reading by replacing the sugar and water mixture with a sugar and corn syrup mixture. When the mixture reaches a full boil it automatically is the perfect temperature for heating the egg yolks.

 

I first offered neoclassic buttercream in The Cake Bible 30 years ago and in the years following, I had not found a favorable result using the same method for Italian meringue. But when testing recipes for Rose’s Baking Basics I was inspired to revisit the technique, altering the ratio of sugar to corn syrup and it worked.
Thanks to Jean’s request we decided to give the new neoclassic Italian meringue a try for the mousseline and after two tests: Eureka!
To prevent the mousseline from becoming curdled, the temperature range for combining the butter and egg white meringue is a couple of degrees higher than for my classic mousseline. This is because it uses less egg white for more strength, and also, while the temperate of the syrup is close to that of the classic one, it is a little lower and therefore a little less stable. Also, we found it beneficial to increase the amount of sugar and corn syrup slightly, compared to the new neoclassic Italian meringue because this also increases stability needed for incorporating butter into it.

Mousseline

Makes: 450 grams/2-1/4 cups (Double the recipe for two 9 inch layer cakes or one 9 by 13 inch sheet cake.)

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Mise en Place

* 30 minutes to 1 hour ahead, set the butter on the counter at cool room temperature. The butter needs to be 65˚ to 68˚F/19˚ to 20˚C.

* 30 minutes to 1 hour ahead, in a small bowl, weigh or measure the egg whites, and add the cream of tartar. Cover with plastic wrap.

* Have ready a 1 cup/237 ml glass measure with a spout by the cooktop.

Make the Mousseline

1) In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the flat beater, beat the butter on medium-high speed until creamy, about 1 minute. Set it aside in a cool place (no higher than 70˚F/21˚C).

2) In a small heavy saucepan, preferably with a nonstick lining, with a spout, stir together the sugar and corn syrup until all of the sugar is moistened. Heat on medium, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves and the mixture begins to simmer. Stop stirring and reduce the heat to low. (On an electric range remove the pan from the heat.)

3) With a handheld mixer, beat the egg whites and cream of tartar on medium-low speed until foamy. Raise the speed to high and beat until stiff peaks form when the beater is raised slowly.

4) Increase the heat until the sugar and corn syrup has reached a rolling boil with the surface covered with large bubbles. Immediately pour the syrup into the glass measure to stop the cooking.

5) Beat the syrup into the egg whites in a steady stream. Don't allow the syrup to fall on the beaters or they will spin it onto the sides of the bowl. Use a silicone scraper to remove the syrup clinging to the measure and scrape it onto the bottoms of the beaters. 

6) Lower the speed to medium and continue beating for up to two minutes. Refrigerate the meringue for 5 to 10 minutes, until 72˚F/23˚C. Whisk it after the first 5 minutes to test and equalize the temperature.

7) Set the mixer bowl containing the butter in the stand and attach the whisk beater. Beat the butter on medium-high speed for about 3 minutes, or until it lightens in color and is between 70˚F/21˚C and 72˚F/23˚C.

8) Confirm that both the creamed butter and the meringue are both within 2 degrees of each other.

Scrape the meringue into the butter and beat on medium speed until smooth and creamy. Beat for about 2 minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary. At first the mixture will look slightly curdled. Continue beating until it becomes a uniform, creamy texture.

If it starts watering out or continues to be curdled, check the temperature.

It should feel cool and be no lower than 70˚F/21˚C, no higher than 73˚F/23˚C. If too warm, set it in a bowl of ice water, stirring gently to chill it down before continuing to beat the buttercream by hand until smooth. If in doubt, it is best to remove a small amount and try beating it either chilling or heating it slightly.

If too cool, suspend the bowl over a pan of very hot water (do not let the bottom of the bowl touch the water) and heat for just a few seconds, stirring vigorously when the mixture just starts to melt slightly at the edges. Dip the bottom of the bowl in a larger bowl of ice water for a few seconds to cool it. Remove the bowl from the ice water and beat the buttercream by hand until smooth.

If the mixture breaks down and will not come together, it can still be rescued. See our posting: When Tragedy Strikes Your Mousseline Buttercream.

9) Gradually beat in the vanilla and optional liqueur.

Store Airtight: room temperature, 1 day; refrigerated, 3 days; frozen, 2 months.

 Notes

* High fat butter is a great help for decreasing any initial curdling of the mousseline.
* It is best to avoid making meringue on humid days.
* The mixer bowl and beater must be entirely free of any fat, which includes oil or egg yolk.
* If doubling the recipe it’s fine to use a stand mixer for the egg whites if you have a second bowl. Add the heated sugar and corn syrup mixture in 3 parts with the mixer off. Then beat each part for several seconds and scrape the sides of the bowl between each addition. Use a silicone spatula to remove the syrup clinging to the measure and scrape it onto the bottoms of the beater.  When pouring, be sure to avoid letting the syrup hit the beaters so that it doesn’t spin it onto the sides of the bowl.
* The mousseline becomes spongy and fluffy on standing which is lovely once on the cake. If you don’t use it right away, whisk it lightly by hand to maintain a silky texture before apply it to the cake. Do not, however, rebeat chilled mousseline until it has reached 72˚ to 74˚F/23˚C to prevent it from breaking down.

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Finally It’s Here: The Ideal Oven Thermometer!

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This well-designed thermometer the BlueDot alarm thermometer and it’s produced by Thermoworks, the same wonderful company that makes, among other things, my favorite instant-read thermometer the Thermapen.

What makes the BlueDot so special and valuable is that it comes with a downloadable Ap which means that you can read the temperature on your IOS device (and soon Android as well) from up to 95 feet.  But what is more important to me is that it graphs the range of temperatures as the oven fluctuates.

The BlueDot is accurate +/- 3.6˚F/2.0˚C at a range of 248˚F/120˚C to 392˚F/200˚C which is the range of most baking.

 

You can also purchase an inexpensive stainless steel grate clip that works perfectly to attach to an oven rack to hold the probe in place.

BlueRaspberry Crisp Preview from "Rose's Baking Basics"

We don't want you to miss the season so we're offering the recipe right now while the berries are at their peak.

BLUERASPBERRY CRISP is excerpted from ROSE’s BAKING BASICS © 2018 by Rose Levy Beranbaum. Photography © 2018 by Matthew Septimus. Reproduced by permission of Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. All rights reserved.

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Rose’s Baking Basics Production Phase 15: Our Published Book Arrives

Pure Joy--The Book has Arrived

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It is with the greatest pleasure that I share with all of you this photo taken by Woody at the moment when the book landed.

Publisher's protocol is for the printer to send a book for the author and a book for the publishing house in advance of the rest of the copies. Preordered books will be going out in September, and will arrive in bookstores by the pub date of September 25.

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These are the step by step photos of making my pizza, "Pizza Rosa." And this is my very first cordon rose (pink ribbon) book marker.

Shirley King’s Seafood Strudel

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Shirley was one of my favorite people. Outspoken, opinionated, strong willed, vulnerable, and honest as the day was long, she also happened to be a brilliant chef, and authored several books on fish. It was at a dinner party in her home that I first became friends with the Batterberrys of Food Arts Magazine, where I first saw the recipe. It was intended to be served in 1 inch slices as an appetizer on a bed of fried leeks, but I love it so much I serve it as the main course, accompanied by a salad. The incredibly light and crisp pastry wrapped around the creamy seafood filling is, quite simply, divine.

The first time I made the recipe, I was able to get the specified fresh phyllo (fillo) which made it much faster to prepare. But since I have a hearty dislike for the frozen variety, which usually goes through a few freeze-thaw experiences causing the thin sheets to stick together, I now make it with strudel dough. The recipe is in “The Pie and Pastry Bible” (you will need to double the recipe to make the two seafood rolls) and I am including a few step-by-step photos herewith. It is the most magical dough and an exhilarating experience to start with a ball of dough the size of your fist and then stretch it to around 48 inches.

Special Tip: phyllo and strudel work best in warm and humid conditions, making this an ideal recipe for summer.

If you’d like to see a video of pulling strudel click below.

Makes: 6 servings

·       85 grams 3 oz. unsalted butter

·       80 grams/10 1/2 Tbsps. all-purpose flour

·       1/3 cup dry white wine

·       116 grams/1/2 cup heavy cream

·       363 grams 1 1/2 cups whole milk

·       salt

·       black pepper, freshly ground

·       227 grams 1/2 lb. fresh bay or sea scallops, side muscle removed, diced

·       2 Tbsps. canola oil

·       227 grams 1/2 lb. med. shrimp, peeled, deveined and cut into 1/2" pieces

·       454 grams/1 lb. fresh or pasteurized lump crabmeat, picked over twice for cartilage

·       1/4 cup fresh dill, chopped

·       1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

·       pinch of cayenne

·       14 sheets packaged phyllo dough

·       73 grams/6 tablespoons clarified unsalted butter

1.     Melt butter in saucepan over medium heat; stir in flour until smooth; reduce heat to low; simmer 10 minutes (stir as needed.)

2.    Whisk in wine, cream and milk until thickened; simmer gently 5 minutes.

3.    Remove from heat; strain through fine sieve; season; reserve.

4.    Sauté scallops in the 2 Tbsps. oil over high heat 1 minute; add shrimp; sauté 2 minutes; transfer with slotted spoon to reserved sauce.

5.    Stir in crabmeat, dill, lemon juice and cayenne; cool.

6.    Unroll phyllo; stack 7 sheets—brush each with clarified butter before covering with next; cover with damp cloth; reserve.

7.    Repeat process with remaining 7 sheets.

8.    Spoon half of seafood mix onto 1 short end of first layered phyllo rectangle; roll; brush with clarified butter; refrigerate; repeat process with remaining seafood and phyllo rectangle; chill 30 minutes to 1 hour.

9.    Heat oven to 400˚ F/200˚C.

10.  Make 3 1 inch long steam vents into the top of each strudel. Transfer to baking sheet; bake until golden (about 20 to 30 minutes); remove from oven; cool 10 to 15 minutes before slicing and serving.

Note: After about 15 minutes of baking, if the ends of the strudel roll start browning too quickly, tent them with aluminum foil.

Caramel Sauce—My Top Favorite

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Through the years, I have tried many ways of making caramel that is the ideal color with deep flavor but not so dark that it is bitter. I also wanted it to be perfectly smooth and to maintain its texture without crystallizing for at least a few weeks in the fridge.

I am thrilled to report that the caramel sauce in Rose’s Baking Basics  is the best I’ve ever tasted and has lasted perfectly in the fridge for 6 months. It would probably have kept even longer but after tasting a little spoonful every week there was none left!

The secrets: the proper temperature with accurate thermometer, corn syrup, and optional cream of tartar. For the rest, turn to page 353.

Rose's Baking Basics Production Phase 14: Our Book Tour Schedule for 2018

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We are happy to announce our tentative dates, events, and cities for the launch of Rose’s Baking Basics book. All events will have a book signing session after the demo or lecture, which we welcome you to bring any of your Rose’s books collection for us to sign. We will be continuing to update the schedule as we receive further details. Be aware that this schedule can change. Admission will also be noted if a book is included with the price of admission. Many of these locations will also have other books by Rose for purchase and our signing them.

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Our tour kicks off in New York with our book launch and my discussing the book with Corby Kummer, who wrote the New York Times article on The Cake Bible.  A criss crossing of our country will follow to Philadelphia, Dallas, St. Louis, Denver, San Francisco, Seattle, Portland, and Paramus, with other cities to be announced before September.   

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* For the Miele event, you can email princetoncenter@mieleusa.com and they will email you when registration opens.

We will announce revisions and additions to the tour schedule on the Current Announcements on the Home page. You can see the schedule at any time by going to the Rose's Baking Basics book's dedicated page and clicking on the Tour Schedule button on the right side column. 

Milk Street Magazine Feature

The first article I ever wrote was for Chris Kimball's ground-breaking food publication: Cook's Magazine in 1981. I was so delighted when staff writer Albert Stumm, interviewed  me for this fun feature in Chris's newest magazine Milk Street. It's a terrific magazine and is the July-August 2018 issue. It is also available with a digital subscription.

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Rose’s Baking Basics Production Phase 13: Off to the Publisher, the Final Stretch

Three years and seven months ago, we met with Stephanie, our editor, and Natalie, manager of the cookbook division, in Houghton Mifflin Harcourt’s office, to sign copies of The Baking Bible and to celebrate the book’s launch. That day also marked the birth of an idea for this book—a step-by-step book with accompanying multiple photographs for most of its recipes.

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Since there were so many photos taken in different lighting and backgrounds throughout the multiple step photos, we were asked to approve and offer suggestions for the photo proof pages.

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We had a second proofing pass to review and add more of our own suggested changes. Our dear friend, Zach Townsend, was one of the proofers to help us perfect our text.

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After completion of the second proof reading phase, we then reviewed and approved the book’s back cover design and text.

I wrote the acknowledgements page, and Woody and I reviewed the appendix, index, and cross references.

Stephanie came through with a special surprise element I have always wanted for one of my books, which will remain a surprise to you until the book is published!

Then Dan O’Malley, manufacturer of the American Products Group (that produces my rolling pin and dough mat) offered to make his special non slip bookmark from the same material as his syn-glass cutting mats, but with the design of our book. We submitted a baker’s dozen of ingredients with their gram weights to add to design and make it extra useful.

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On May 18, I sent a ‘stamp of approval’ email to Stephanie to give her the green light to send the book files to the printer to transform our digitized 400 pages, with nearly 700 color photos, into a printed book. Now comes the four months of waiting for the first hardcover book to be in our hands—always the long-awaited and magical moment which most authors compare to the birth of a baby.

Bake from Scratch Honors Its 2018 Baker's Dozen

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Is there anything more gratifying than being elevated to the level of the three people (Julia Child, James Beard, and Jacques Pépin) who have had the greatest influence on my career and whom I admire the most?

I am deeply honored and grateful to have been chosen as the “icon” baker in Bake from Scratch’s annual Baker’s Dozen, in the company of such esteemed colleagues including two of my dearest friends: Erin McDowell and Umber Ahmad.

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This issue also has many excellent articles such as Milk Bread and Pizza, with fabulous photos and yes: ingredients are listed in grams. We’ve come a long way!

The July/August issue will be on news stands on June 12, and also available on line and on Instagram and Twitter @thebakefeed.

Happy Birthday! Food52 Cookbook Bloggers

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Our friends at Food52 celebrated their first year of bloggers baking and cooking various recipes from their monthly chosen cookbooks. Bloggers were invited to Food52’s Manhattan office for an afternoon of tasting a wide array of dishes and desserts made by fellow bloggers. We were invites as well since, The Baking Bible was Food 52’s book for the year for bloggers to make recipes. Erin McDowell was also at the party as her Fearless Baker book was one of the monthly selections. The savory table had several recipes from Ottolenghi’s Jerusalem and Plenty.

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The dessert table had chocolate chip cookies and a bundt version of Erin’s lemon pound from Fearless Baker, plus a towering, three tier cake with strawberry and raspberry flavored cake layers and covered in her artistically executed buttercream.

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We brought a 13 by 9 inch version of our “Deep Passion Chocolate Cake” frosted with “Wicked Good Ganache.” We were honored that Food 52’s event organizer, Eunice Choi, had our cake adorned with Happy Birthday candles. The lit candles drew a crowd of smart phone camera clicks.

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A highlight of the party was the drawing of names for two lucky bloggers to win Erin’s Fearless Baker or The Baking Bible.

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This month, The Baking Bible is be one the month’s cookbook selections to kick off a second year of bloggers sharing their cooking and baking experiences.

A Friendship Forged in Cake Baking + NEW DISCOVERY

 Hector, Neighbor Patti, and Lawrence

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Hector, who has a major long-time presence on this blog, has created a new cake with his new boyfriend who loves to bake! This is a friendship made in heaven: Lawrence who has baked from many magazine recipes, which are mostly not very technical, learning from master baker Hector, resulting in this magnificent cake which they made together.

Here, in Hector’s charming own words, is how it happened:

He weighs when possible, but still uses cups when the recipe is such. He doesn't know what baking powder does to surface tension on butter cakes, but he seems to have understood it from me on this recent cake. He repeats back, talks about it a day or so later, these types of high-level baking chemistry information, which tells me he is listening and he is understanding.  He knows that confectioners sugar contains cornstarch, and knows that is why cream cheese frostings with it are gritty, and has asked me how to fix that.

The golden génoise i made last month, was with Lawrence.  He really loves it and keeps wanting to make it again as the cake base for any of his magazine recipes, even for chocolate cake, he wants the golden génoise!  He is a great assistant and hands on, and is not afraid of doing the process himself, weighing straight in the mixer bowl several ingredients at a time, separating eggs with scooping the yolks with his hands, folding génoise, etc.

We just made one of his magazine recipes (see PDF below). It is essentially a white cake, but my question to you is "what does whipping the egg whites to stiff peak do to a butter cake?" (For my answer see below.)  i measured everything in grams, and the cake turned out very very well, good texture and flavor and sweetness. I didn't know how Williams Sonoma measures flour, i just used the grams equivalent assuming as it was your recipe. The cake didn't dip, nor volcanoed.  

I didn't have a good quality raspberry preserves, as called on the recipe for the filling, so i decided to move all of "raspberry" as fresh fruit, on the top as your valentines cake.  it looked great of course, and honestly, i don't care for jam filling in my cake layers.

The almonds were hand cut, from whole raw unsalted almonds. Cutting the almonds with a knife kept Lawrence entertained!  I also showed him proper technique: You don't slam or throw the almonds to coat the cake sides, but instead, you scoop as much as you can hold with one hand and apply to the cake sides from the bottom, and upwards, and letting a lot of extra almonds fall.

Changing the cream cheese frosting with your creamy dreamy one, was great. I used Felchlin 36% white chocolate, SO DELICIOUS.  i am considering using your White Chocolate Whisper Cake instead, but I will try whipping the eggs whites and see what it does.

Whipping egg whites to stiff peaks for a butter layer cake creates air bubbles in much the same way as chemical leavening. It is sometimes used to replace baking powder or, as in this case, to supplement it. I find that unbleached flour in a butter layer cake usually results in dipping in the center and coarse texture so I suspect the whipped egg whites gives extra support and counteracted that!

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Rose’s Baking Basics Production Phase 12: The Galleys is Here!

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The Galleys is a paperback version of the book printed with black and white photos and shades of gray fonts instead of colored fonts. It is basically the black and white version of the ‘laid out pages’ that we and the proof-readers were given to submit revisions. This version of the final copy edited manuscript is sent to many of the same businesses: book stores, on-line sellers, and reviewers that received the BLAD (Basic Layout and Design) pamphlet.

Because the Galleys is not the final proofed and corrected manuscript for the book, the Galleys are always labeled ‘ADVANCED UNPROOFED COPY. NOT FOR RESALE.’ Some reviewers will test a few recipes from the Galleys, despite realizing that a recipe may not be in its final corrected form. This is unfortunate and not the intention of the Galleys, which is to give an overview of the breath and scope of the book that work months ahead of the advanced copy. During our first proofing pass, we found several inputting errors where 2/3 cup was printed as 1/3 cup. If using volume rather than weight, this is a recipe for disaster!

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Excited, we are and will be, to hold and flip the pages of our paperback version for the next six months until the hardcover book arrives. The SEPTEMBER label is when the book becomes available for retailers to sell. 

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Recipe Index Pages for All of My Books!

Woody has listed all of the main recipes for a given book as a linked page for each book's DIscover More page. Each dedicated page will have a chart with the recipe's title and its page number. Additional information may include required equipment, description, or notes. You will find over 1000 main recipes with many more supporting and variation recipes in my books. 

To see the recipe index for a particular book. Ex: The Cake Bible on the photos below with corresponding Numbered Titles. 

1. On Rose's Books page: Click on the DISCOVER MORE (book's title)  page link button under that book.

2. On the book's page: scroll down and find the  (book) RECIPE INDEX page link button.

3. The book's recipe page will appear with recipes listed in page order (or category) 

Rose's Sugar Bible and Vanilla Bible Pages Now on Our Website

Rose wrote many articles for Food Arts magazine over years. Her Sugar Bible article in 2000, spanned 30 pages. The article went on to win the World Gourmand Best Food or Wine Article in the World. We have decided to give these two informative articles their own dedicated pages here on our website, which also include updates and additional information.          (Shown above are each bible page's banner.)

You can access them any time on the Rose's Books page. Scroll down to their page links under Romantic Cakes on the left side of the page (pictured below). Then click on their page buttons. 

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                              Here are direct links to the Sugar Bible and Vanilla Bible. 

Rose's Baking Basics Production Phase 11: The Laid Out Pages

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The ‘laid out pages’ phase is our first opportunity to see our book come alive. The ‘book’ arrived as 200 twin-page pages complete with photos, fonts, and text. Alison did an incredible job of integrating fonts, background colors, the 600 step-by-step photos, and charts into a masterpiece with her design for our book. This is just one of the four forms which enable us to experience our book, before it becomes the real thing—our hard covered book. But ‘laid out pages’ also means our ‘first pass’ to proof it against the previous copy-edited version.

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Seeing the entire layout with the photos in place has helped us to revise and improve the content, as it is much easier to compare similar recipes and phrases and flip from one set of step-by-step photos to another. Our guesses for how many revisions we would want to make were quickly surpassed, but happily, knowing that the book will hopefully be error free when we review the ‘laid out pages’ again for a ‘second pass’. Then our book goes back to the publisher to add our acknowledgements page and the index pages.

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