Real Baking with Rose Levy Beranbaum: Equipment Archives

Brown Rice Pearls

I have long loved the nutty flavor of brown rice but preferred the firm unexploded texture of white. I suspected/hoped that if cooked correctly, the texture of brown rice could approach that of white. (I never expected it could rival it!) This has led me to a many month-long exploration of different cooking methods and in the process I have actually seduced/converted a passionately resistant Chinese devotée of white rice—our very own Hector Wong.

I promised him brown rice “like pearls with each grain exquisitely separate.” How could he resist trying? Here was his immediate response: “It is really pearly heaven, each kernel pops between my teeth like popcorn, so fun. I love brown rice NOW, you have converted me. It is like having fried rice but sans all the frying oil and soy sauce!”

Before posting the method we wanted to make sure it would work in all types of rice cookers. We both went through pounds of brown rice trying every variable we could think of, verifying that indeed it is the case that different rice cookers produce different results. Not to worry—it’s mostly a question of adjusting the amount of water to suit your taste. (Please note that Hector pointed out if increased the recipe the water should not be increased proportionately, i.e. if doubling the rice, the water should be increased by perhaps 1 3/4 times instead of double but he is working out a more exact amount and will post it.)

Continue reading " Brown Rice Pearls" »

From the kitchen of Rose on 09.05.09 at 9:30 AM in Savory Cooking

A Great Source for Bannetons

My wonderful friend David Shamah, who over the years has introduced me to all sorts of culinary treasures, has unearthed this terrific source for an often hard to find item for bread baking.

Bannetons, also called wicker baskets, are used for shaping bread dough while they are rising to give them extra support. I prefer the ones lined with coarse woven cloth.

Here's the link: http://www.sfbi.com/baking_supplies.html

From the kitchen of Rose on 08.06.09 at 3:00 AM in Announcements

Terrific New Discovery Just in Time for the Pie Baking Season

We all know that they best way to keep pie dough from sticking to the surface while rolling it out is to keep it cool. But unless you have a refrigerated marble top, chill down your marble or granite counter, or use the Kuhn Rikkon plastic box like device into which you can insert ice packs, the chances are that it will soften to some degree while rolling.

The best temperature for the dough is 60 to 65˚F/15 to 18˚C. Colder and it cracks, warmer and it sticks so speed is of the essence here.

I’m always looking for the ideal way to prevent sticking and avoid adding too much extra flour to the dough. Up until I discovered the "magic dough mat" I swore by the pastry cloth and sleeve into which you rub flour allowing the to dough pick up only the bare minimum it requires.

When I saw the dough mat described in an industry equipment magazine I was skeptical but ordered one to check it out. I was stunned to discover that unless the dough really softens it virtually prevents sticking.

Note: It’s always a good idea when rolling the dough to move it from time to time to ensure that it will release and if it seems to be getting a little resistant, to sprinkle on a little flour. I prefer Wondra, as it’s slightly coarse texture makes it wonderfully slippery and less is needed.

The dough mat has a slightly adhesive bottom surface, which keeps it from slipping on the counter. The top surface has all manner of useful information such as guide rings for different size doughs and lots of metric equivalencies including volume and temperature. It rolls up for easy storage.

The dough mat is carried by some cookware shops or can be ordered on line from http://www.cooking.com or directly from the manufacturer for about $20 plus shipping.

http://www.magicslice.com Put the words dough mat in the search box.

From the kitchen of Rose on 06.06.09 at 9:30 AM in Announcements

Eating Crispy Cumulous Clouds

That’s what they look like to me—those little implosions of corn kernels.

There is a child-like magic when watching the hard little yellow kernels pop and change form and color. It makes me think of all the great things that come in small packages that hide beautiful things within like buds that overnight become leaves or flowers, eggs that in moments crack open to reveal little baby birds. And in the Cuisinart popcorn popper you can witness the miracle through a clear plastic container. At first the simple wire device on the stirring plate moves the kernels slowly around and at about 3 minutes the first kernels start popping. They all pop in less than 7 minutes. If you don’t finish all the popcorn in one sitting, it can be recrisped in a 350ºF/17ºC. oven for about 10 minutes and it’s just like fresh-popped.

Continue reading "Eating Crispy Cumulous Clouds" »

From the kitchen of Rose on 08.19.08 at 3:40 PM in Savory Cooking

My Rescue Pot!

Two of my favorite neighbors have just moved but in the process have left me a real treasure. One day when I was emptying the trash in the incinerator room I found a discarded cast iron Dutch oven that clearly had been used for many a camping trip. It was rusted in spots and had layers of encrusted baked on scuzz on others but i quickly scooped it up along with its equally dismal lid and brought it to Hope for a new life.
I followed the very good instructions on the Lodge website: www.lodgemfg.com to reseason it, first using steel wool to remove the rust. After the first treatment the pot was still not as black or smooth as I had hoped so remembering how I preheat my cast iron pots at 450ºF/232ºC for an hour before baking the "no knead bread" and how beautifully seasoned the pan becomes I decided to give it a second go. The results were spectacular as you can see for yourself!

From the kitchen of Rose on 03.22.08 at 11:22 AM in Equipment

Purchasing My Products

There have been many requests regarding where my products can be found.

U.S. Orders:
If you purchase from Amazon, a small amount of the purchase prices goes directly to me:
Rose's Heavenly Cake Strips
Rose's Perfect Pie Plate
Rose's Sweetheart Crème Brûlée Set

These also will be permanent links on the main page of the blog under equipment.

International Orders:
If Amazon carries an item, they will ship out of the U.S., but if Amazon is temporarily out of stock, and routes you to another purveyor, it is unlikely that they are set up to ship abroad at the present time.

From the kitchen of Rose on 11.14.07 at 9:41 AM in Rose's Products

Rose’s Heavenly Cake Strip

I’m thrilled to report that after working extensively with the wonderful silicone bakeware of Lékué I have come to understand the advantages of its properties so well I was inspired to create my first silicone product—a silicone cake strip! It works like a charm and it’s everything I wanted it to be.

The strip fits a 9 inch round or 8 inch square pan. It is quick and easy to attach—NO PREPPING—You simply turn the pan upside down and slip it around the sides. It then works to insulate the sides of a metal cake pan, slowing down baking at the sides of the cake. You can even use it for a 10 inch round pan if you run the strip under hot tap water or wave a hair drier over it to make stretching it easier for the larger size pan. it will return to it's original size on cooling.

It produces better cakes:
* more even
* less doming
* less shrinking from sides
* less browning and drying of sides

Other advantages:

* it stays like new for years
* is dishwasher safe
* is oven safe up to 500°F/260°C.

(Do not subject to direct heat such as a flame or broiler)

Harold Import Company is the distributor for the cake strip. It will be in retail stores by Fall and I will list an on-line order site as soon as it’s available.

From the kitchen of Rose on 07.25.07 at 11:24 AM in Announcements

Coffee Mystique

those of you who have read my postings about coffee will already know that it ranks as my all time top beverage and that i devote an unusually great proportion of my time to making it, drinking it, and thinking about it.

there is something that coffee, tea, and perhaps wine have in common: even with the same exact ingredients and equipment, they do not taste the same in different locations!

my husband noticed this with tea when he first came from toronto to ny. when i was revising the cake bible for the UK edition i adored the tea in london so much i stopped drinking coffee . i brought the tea back to ny and it just wasn’t the same. my husband even had brought back the water from toronto so though that seems like the obvious common denominator of tea quality failure—it wasn’t.

when it comes to my beloved coffee, i’ve tried many machines plus ny water, and my favorite brands of coffee and it was never the same (i.e. as good) as drinking it in ny.

so the question remains—is it something in the air? can it be that i require a deep inhalation of ny pollution to achieve coffee nirvana?

Continue reading "Coffee Mystique" »

From the kitchen of Rose on 07.15.07 at 1:58 PM in Equipment

POURfect Spoons

The manufacturer is in the process of retooling the spoons so that they will have a raised embossed number on them instead of the ink that sometimes washed off. He assured me that anyone who has spoons with the problem ink can have them replaced by calling Tara @ 602-340-0441

This is directly to the company that manufactured the spoons and they are responsible for sending out replacements.

From the kitchen of Rose on 04.08.07 at 10:40 AM in Announcements

Hector Was Right!

hector posted an interesting idea regarding the aeroccino milk foaming device i recommended in a former posting, and i finally got around to trying it. the BEST foam i've ever achieved and such a simple solution as the best ones usually tend to be:

put the device in the frig to chill before foaming the milk! yes!!!

and now for a little science along with your capuccino:

cream needs to be high in fat and cold to whip well and stay stable without watering out, the firm and well-dispursed fat molecules support the foam.

heated milk for capuccino, however, foams most effectively with low fat milk, as when warmed the fat softens and weighs down the foam, preventing aeration.

From the kitchen of Rose on 03.31.07 at 2:37 PM in Equipment

I Flipped My Lid

Having fallen in love with my new cast iron pots with the intended use of baking bread, I found myself gazing admiringly at the lids when inspiration struck. Why not cook on the inverted lids ?! And why not borrow the technique of preheating them from the no knead bread recipe?

So I preheated the lid with the oven to 450ºF./230ºC. tossed some quartered little potatoes and a few mushrooms with olive oil, rosemary, salt, and pepper.

The lid handle fits right through the opening in the oven rack keeping the lid stable. After about 30 minutes, turn the potatoes and remove the mushrooms. Sprinkle the potatoes with chopped garlic and continue roasting for 10 to 15 minutes or until the potatoes are browned and tender.

From the kitchen of Rose on 01.22.07 at 3:12 PM in Savory Cooking

My Favorite Plastic Wrap Now in D'Agostino's!

how wonderful--no need to pray for a cosco to open in new york to get stretch-tite: it's now being carried by d'agostino's.

From the kitchen of Rose on 07.28.06 at 5:33 PM in Equipment

At Last: A Terrific Affordable Thermometer

When it comes to baking, the three most critical factors to ensure the best results are the quality of the ingredients, the quantity of the ingredient (I prefer weight to volume) and the temperature. For the latter, it’s often useful to have a thermometer but if it’s not an accurate one it’s better to use none at all. You can get away without one for most baking but when it comes to sugar syrups it is almost essential. And it’s reassuring when baking bread to know for sure when it’s reached the proper internal temperature. For roasting or grilling I can’t begin to imagine doing without a thermometer.

Since mercury thermometers for use in the kitchen were banned by the FDA I’ve been searching for a viable replacement that would be both accurate and affordable. I love infra-red for surface temperature such as the inside of the oven, the freezer or frig, but have not found the ones that also include probes adequately reliable for internal temperatures. For these uses I can now recommend the CDN Pro Accurate™ Quick Tip™ Digital Cooking Thermometer on a Rope Model Q2-450 that I’ve been testing since the Chicago Housewares Show a few months ago. I’m pleased to report that tested against my old reliable mercury thermometer it is as accurate and possibly even faster. This is now the one that I pull out with the most regularity, probably because it’s so handy in design and so extraordinarily easy to use. Since I’m not working with large volumes, I especially appreciate the “quick tip” feature--the sensor is in the tip of the probe so it doesn’t require the usual deep immersion to get an accurate reading (No more tilting of the pot!). There are so many useful features I’ll list them here:

Temperature Range: -40 to 450˚F, -40 to 230˚C ±1/2 ˚
Waterproof
Self calibrating
One button operation (easy to turn on and off but auto turn-off after 10 minutes)
Big digit readout
Data hold (locks reading on display for use in low light conditions)
Hangs on a rope
Suggested retail price under $20

The company also offers a 23-page booklet on “temperature and thermometer tips” at www.cdnw.com or by mail if you send a stamped self-addressed envelope to:
CDN Customer Service
PO Box 10947
Portland, OR 97296

Check out their site for other useful thermometers such as one specific to grilling. I haven’t tried it out yet but the outdoor grilling season is just beginning so stay tuned!

From the kitchen of Rose on 05.15.06 at 4:23 PM in Equipment

The Two by Four of Cake Pans

We’re all familiar with the concept and it’s so omnipresent we’ve all but accepted that when a piece of lumber is called a two by four it refers literally to what it once had been and NOT what it is now. Just in case you don’t know, it’s not bigger, it’s smaller. And having succeeded in gaining the mute acceptance of the American public, other areas of industry have followed suit. Think of all the money this is saving them, shaving off pieces of wood. It’s become a metaphor for clever merchandising (read cheating the public and getting away with it).

Although I detest the concept on principal, it doesn’t directly affect me when it comes to many things but when it comes to cake pans, my most vital piece of equipment for cake baking, it makes me MAD.

When I create a recipe for a 9 inch by 2 inch high pan whose volume is 8 2/3 cups and people find 9 inch pans that actually are 8 1/2 inches at the bottom and just under 9 inches at the top, the recipe will overflow the pan. I’ve taken to saying how much to fill the pan (with most batters no more than 2/3 full). Also a slope-sided pan is an extreme inconvenience when you stack one layer on top of the other and hope for even sides to ice.

So when you go shopping for cake pans (or pie plates for that matter) carry a tape measure with you. Being the daughter of a cabinet maker my first toy was an industrial wooden fold out ruler, and I still remember the cute little bronze mini measure that slid out from the end—of course it was my favorite part. I would never leave the house without my own purse size version.

From the kitchen of Rose on 04.29.06 at 4:12 PM in Announcements

How can you be sure your oven is holding the right temperature?

Most oven thermometers I have tested are unreliable. The best way is by baking a reliable recipe. If the recipe says bake 30 to 40 minutes and it is done in 25, turn it down 25 degrees. If it takes longer than 40 minutes turn it up 25 degrees. Occasionally oven thermostats become erratic and do not hold temperatures no matter what the setting. This requires professional calibration or a new thermostat.

From the kitchen of Rose on 03.19.06 at 12:38 PM in FAQs

When do you use the whisk beater versus the flat beater on a stand mixer?

The whisk beater is used to aerate mixtures such as egg whites for a meringue; the spade or flat beater to mix things together. Unless otherwise specified in a recipe, it is generally the flat beater that is meant to be used.

From the kitchen of Rose on 03.17.06 at 12:38 PM in FAQs

Making a Cake in a Different Size Cake Pan

DIANNE QUESTION

I wanted to bake your white chocolate whisper cake but use a tube pan instead of the round cake pans. Is this possible and what do I need to know to make this work?

ROSE REPLY

on page 455 of the cake bible is a chart listing the volume of most cake pans. of course if you have an odd-shaped pan you will need to measure the volume yourself by pouring water into it. if it's a two-piece pan first line it with a clean garbage bag.

compare the size and volume of the pans specified in the recipe to the one which you want to use and then either increase or decrease it proportionately.

a cake in a tube pan will take longer to bake than in a 9 x 2 or 9 x 1 1/2 inch pan but use the usual tests of springing back when touched lightly on top and a cake tester inserted in the middle between sides of pan and tube comes out clean.

From the kitchen of Rose on 03.04.06 at 3:12 PM in FAQs

What is the best surface on which to bake bread?

A preheated baking stone or quarry tiles are ideal. Allow it or them to preheat for a minimum of 45 minutes. Stone retains heat, giving better oven spring or rise to the loaf, and absorbs moisture yielding a crisper crust. To avoid sprinkling flour or cornmeal on the stone, Silpain, or Silpat (both are silicone mats but Silpain is black and has little holes for breathing), or parchment, can be placed directly on the stone.

From the kitchen of Rose on 03.03.06 at 12:18 PM in FAQs

Cheesecake Containers

IRINA QUESTION

Feedback: Dear Rose,

I am so psyched about this blog, you have no idea. I proudly own all of your books and swear by them. The Cake Bible is my enduring source for my home baking business. What an absolute gem!

Recently, I've been asked to supply cheese cakes for a charity bookstore and I thought you might be able to point me in the right direction for individual disposable baking cups. I had in mind something like what Panettone is baked in? A "waxed" paper type wrapper? I figure this would be cleaner and neater to serve to a customer. And who doesn't love their very own cheesecake?!

Thanks so much for any advice you can offer,

ROSE REPLY

I love those little panettone containers, but I personally wouldn't use them for cheesecake, as I like to bake cheesecake in a water bath so that it's at its most creamy. if you used foil custard cup liners you could still use a water bath.

If you want to get the Panettone containers wholesale you'll need to go to a food show where they have packaging or search online. I don't get them in large quantity so I get to mind from la cuisine.

thank you for your appreciation and encouragement!

From the kitchen of Rose on 03.01.06 at 4:54 PM in Equipment

Weigh to Bake Revisited--The Perfect Scales

i’ve already made my case for why weighing rather than measuring is so much more desirable and enjoyable. i know some people resist partly because they don’t know which scale to choose, a good scale can be very expensive, and even relatively expensive scales designed for home use lack some important features of the professional laboratory scales.

about a month ago, a fellow blogger contacted me regarding a scale that he found more reliable and affordable than one i had mentioned on this blog. i promised to check it out and here are the happy results:

the MY WEIGH digital scales are the answer! the 3 scales most appropriate for baking are the 7001DX, the KD-7000, and the i5000. They vary in price from $35 to $65.

the scales weigh from 1 gram (0.1 ounce) to 7000 grams/7 kilograms (15 pounds 7 ounces).

here’s a company that invites consumer response and suggestions. the result is that there is finally an electronic scale for the home baker that can be operated by adaptor as well as battery and, what is most important: the automatic power-off can be disabled so that it doesn’t inconveniently time-out when you’re in the middle of weighing and got distracted for a few minutes (don’t you just HATE when that happens!)

so many nice features: the scales are small and compact, not taking up much counter space; an adjustable-angle backlight timer with option for how long to stay lit; a hold option for large boxes that hide the display; and of course a tare option (removes the weight of the bowl and last ingredients added).

when i asked the owner of the company how they could keep the scales at so affordable a price and yet maintain such high standards of quality and exacting accuracy his answer was : "The prices are low because we believe in lower margin, higher volume sales. We also keep our costs extremely low by producing and distributing the scales ourselves!"

if everything in life were designed with such thoughtful integrity it would indeed be a perfect world.

check out www.myweigh.com
be sure to go to the section on how to select or choose the right kitchen scale to compare the features of the models i mentioned.

From the kitchen of Rose on 02.25.06 at 4:28 PM in Announcements

Using the Right Size and Type of Pan

JULIE QUESTION

Feedback: The last few times I've tried to make lemon bars they come out all wrong. Instead of a pale yellow soft filling, I get a brown crusty thin layer.

Is it because I'm using a glass pan? The pan is 9x9 instead of 7x11, but I can't see that making such a huge difference.

ROSE REPLY

this is an excellent question julie because many people think that the exact pan size and type aren't important and you have demonstrated perfectly just why it is!

first: when a recipe that has always worked suddenly stops working you must think hard about what you are doing differently or what might have changed. in this instance it is the pan type and size. and here's why it isn't working:
glass is transparent so heat enters it more quickly. therefore when using glass bakeware, set the oven temperature 25 degrees lower.

but what is equally significant, especially to the lemon curd topping, is that since it is a slightly larger pan, there is a thinner layer of the lemon curd so this also causes it to cook faster and the sugar in it is carmelizing and turning brown.

From the kitchen of Rose on 02.11.06 at 1:46 PM in Equipment

Silicone Baking Pans

JEAN QUESTION

Dear Rose,

I have an older copy of your "The Cake Bible" that was written before
the advent and proliferation of the silicon baking pans. In general,
what changes to the baking process should I consider if I use these pans?

Thanks,

ROSE REPLY

There are actually very few changes necessary. It is important to realize, however, that no substance on earth that I know of is 100% non-stick. Because silicone happens to be the most nonstick substance, if it is prepared properly (with oil and flour) it will release the cake perfectly with no crust stuck to the pan.

It is best to allow the cake to cool in the pan on a rack until warm or room temperature before unmolding it.

Deep fluted tube pans, as they are now, do not conduct the heat well to the center of the cake and may require as long as 20 minutes extra baking. But this is a relatively new technology and is continuing to evolve. For small cakes and the standard 9 x 2 inch cake I feel silicone has no equal. The cakes rise more evenly, with no need to wrap the sides of the pans with cake strips, and the texture is lighter and more even though the actual height of the cake is slightly lower.

Read about my association with Lékué Silicone pans and bakeware from Spain.

From the kitchen of Rose on 02.07.06 at 4:02 PM in Equipment

Layer Cakes Rising Higher Than the Pan

GUY QUESTION

Hi rose! I love your book.

The issue I'm having is that in your Book The Cake Bible, you say to use 9 inch x 1 1/2 inch round pans for making the All Occasion Downey Yellow Butter Cake. I followed your instructions to the letter. The layers rose above the tops of the cake pans. Did I do something wrong? Should I just be using the 9x2 inch pans instead?

Thank you!

ROSE REPLY

It's okay if layer cakes rise a little above the sides of the pan as the structure can still support it. The real indication is if the finished height after unmolding is the same as I specified. The batter may be a little too much for the 1 1/2" high pan but it is not enough for the 2 inch high pans.

From the kitchen of Rose on 02.07.06 at 3:38 PM in General

Small Measuring Spoons

JENNIFER QUESTION

Feedback: Hi..how do you measure 1/4 and 1/8 teaspoons without a scale? I have the bread bible and wanted to make something that has 1/4 teaspoon yeast.Is there a place where i can buy odd size teaspoons, if so where? Thank you...p.s I love your work.

ROSE REPLY

The one quarter teaspoon measure is available as part of the standard set but the one eighth is not usually. There is however a delightful little set of measuring spoons called a pinch, a dash, a smidgen. It's available at Crate and Barrel.

From the kitchen of Rose on 02.07.06 at 1:34 PM in Equipment

Mini Cheesecake Pans with Removable Bottoms

PATRICIA QUESTION

Hi Rose,

I have used your 12 cup Muffin Pan with great success.

Do you know where I can get 12 mini cup pan with a removable base ideal for individual mini cheesecakes?

I had to get the above muffin pan in Boston as we do not have them here.

Thank you, in anticipation,

ROSE REPLY

they're produced by chicago metallics and i've seen them at williams sonoma! great pans!

From the kitchen of Rose on 01.15.06 at 9:30 AM in Equipment

Bread Ovens

MONICA QUESTION

Feedback: Hi Rose! Do you have any recommendations on bread ovens? I am looking into buying a separate oven just for baking bread (and if it had steam injectors, I'd be thrilled!) Have you looked into any of the products that are out there?

ROSE REPLY

i haven't actually tried it yet but kitchen aid has a new built in oven with "steam assist" that sounds very promising! it's projected to come out in 2007. meantime it has a duel-fuel range with steam assist.
http://www.kitchenaid.com/catalog/product.jsp?src=RANGES&categoryId=115&productId=897

From the kitchen of Rose on 01.12.06 at 9:52 AM in Equipment

My Favorite Plastic Wrap!!!

if only i had known that the old style saran, known as “the original premium wrap,” was going off the market to be replaced by a saran that was no longer air or smell-tight, i would have bought up as many cases as i had room to store. but now it’s too late.

i discovered this sad news by e-mail when some other desperate baker asked “now what do i use to store cakes airtight in the freezer?” after canvassing all the local markets for the old-style saran, with no luck, i tried every other wrap i could find. i knew, from working for reynolds metals company many years ago, that wraps other than saran had microscopic air holes that prevented produce from spoiling, and were not intended for wrapping things airtight in the freezer.

the producer of my pbs show, marjorie poore, shipped me a roll of her favorite plastic wrap called “stretch tight,” that she bought in cosco, saying that i would become so addicted to this wrap i would beg her to send it to me on a regular basis. to my delight she was right! it did indeed cling tightly to the bowl or whatever else i was wrapping but not being impermeable, it too wasn’t suitable for freezing cakes. still, it was the best thing i could find and i wanted more but hesitated to ask her to ship me plastic wrap from the west coast on a regular basis so i called the number on the side of the box and eureka! not only can the wrap be ordered on the internet, they also produce a wrap designed for the freezer called “freeze tite”! not only is it significantly thicker, it is also wider (15 inches wide). the manufacturer assured me that it is almost as impermeable as the old-style saran. now i can stop complaining.
here’s the website:
www.stretchtite.com

From the kitchen of Rose on 01.08.06 at 11:41 AM in Equipment

A Clever Idea for Weighing Ingredients

WOODY COMMENT

Feedback: An Idea for Marking Weights on Mixing Bowls and Measuring Cups

as you know from our correspondence and having experienced first hand that not all eggs weigh the same or even three sticks of butter for that matter, I now always weigh out (in grams)the recipe's ingredients, except for ingredients of a tablespoon or less. I was recently amazed that a package of fresh raspberries labeled 6 ounces/ 170 grams, actually tipped my scale at 150 grams! Maybe someone at the factory was doing a taste quality control.

Although I would like to claim that I instinctively zero out any mixing bowl or measuring cup on my scale before I start adding ingredients, well i need to work on that habit. Should I get upset and start all over, blame the c=scale for not telling me, or take a wild assuming guess? Instead......

I have now written in magic marker the weight and numbered on the side of each mixing bowl, baking pan, and measuring cup in my kitchen. Since I am not planning on any "kitchen open houses" and we do not mind the now non-pristine bowls, they are all labeled. I also have a corresponding sheet with their number and weight noted incase the marked weight wears off.

Now if I find that 2 large eggs weigh 540 grams, I can do the math of subtracting the 440 grams written on my mixing bowl for the actual 100 grams of eggs, and a few less hairs missing from my head.

ROSE REPLY

this commitment to accuracy validates my trust in woody to be my official tester for my upcoming book!

it’s a great idea to mark the bowls. i wish industry would take note and mark both the weight and volume of the bowls and pans right on the side!

i’ve had a long standing fantasy of having kitchen wall paper with the weight of commonly used ingredients on it. one of these days i just might make my own by taking a magic marker and writing it right on the wall!

From the kitchen of Rose on 12.31.05 at 9:12 AM in Ingredients

Silicone Pans

KAY QUESTION

Feedback: I just got silicone baking pans for Christmas, do they need to be greased/pam when using, any other tips for using this type of pan or where I can find more info. Thank You

ROSE REPLY

although manufacturers of baking and cooking pans use the term non-stick, this is a relative thing. there is no substance on earth that is 10% non-stick. silicone is the best of all non-stick materal but it still requres preparation. a light coating of oil will work for non-chocolate cakes but a sray that contains oil and flour or oiling and flouring the pans is necessary for chocolate cakes.

i wrote a booklet for lékué silicone pans that is packaged with the pans. these pans are carried in many stores around the country including fantés in philadelphia that does mail-order.

Read about my association with Lékué Silicone pans and bakeware from Spain.

From the kitchen of Rose on 12.29.05 at 7:50 AM in Equipment

Weigh to Bake

i can’t imagine life without a counter-top scale to weigh ingredients!. if i wrote books or recipes just for myself i wouldn’t even include cup measurements. while I’m going out on a limb i might as well admit that given my druthers i would use only the metric system. it’s so much easier, faster, and more reliable. can you imagine how crazy-making it is to create and proof all those charts in my books that list each ingredient in volume, ounces and grams! but i’ve got to cater to those resistant to weighing because as far as i’m concerned, it’s better to bake by volume than not to bake at all. and baking makes me happy so i want to share it with everyone.

bakers are born, not made. we are exacting people who delight in submitting ourselves to rules and formulas if it means achieving repeatable perfection. the rewards of this discipline go beyond providing absolute sensory pleasure. there is also a feeling of magic and alchemy that comes from starting with ingredients that don’t remotely resemble the delicious magnificence of the final result.

Continue reading "Weigh to Bake" »

From the kitchen of Rose on 12.27.05 at 3:01 PM in Notes

How to Get a Crisp Brown Bottom Pie Crust

RONI QUESTION

I love to bake and have done so successfully for many years. The one thing I can't seem to do is to get a bottom pie crust to brown. I have used a Pyrex pie pan, a Pampered Chef ceramic pan, a French ceramic pan and a shiny metal pan. I have tried a number of pie crust recipes, too! Please help..Thanksgiving is coming, and I always make an apple pie. Thanks

ROSE REPLY

i feel strongly that if a bottom pie crust is soggy there is no point in having more than a top crust on the pie! i addressed this in my book “the pastry bible” where i give the technique for juicy pies of letting the fruit sit with the sugar to leach out the juices and then reduce them and return them to the fruit. this way you only need to use about one-third of the thickening agent which results in a more pure fruit taste and you won’t be left with a pool of fruit juices on the bottom of a soggy crust after baking the pie.

but this alone will not brown the crust. to achieve this, i bake the pie directly on the floor of the oven for the first 20 minutes of baking and then raise it to the bottom shelf. different ovens bake differently so you may need to leave it on the floor of the oven for a longer time. the best way to find out is to use a pyrex plate the first time you do this so you can see through it and gauge when sufficient browning has taken place. if your oven is electric and has coils on the bottom, the best alternative is to use a baking stone on the lowest shelf and preheat the oven for at least 30 minutes to ensure that it is heated fully.

i have recently designed and produced a special pie plate that is ceramic with deeply fluted sides to create a beautiful border effortlessly. it also does a great job of even browning of the bottom crust. it also has my favorite pie crust recipe decaled permanently into the bottom inside of the plate.
you can view it on www.laprimashops.com

From the kitchen of Rose on 12.20.05 at 3:13 PM in Pie and Pastry Questions

Preventing Bread Dough from Flattening During Baking

HARRIET QUESTION
Your book has turned me into a regular baker of bread. I now make all the bread we eat. Your recipes are clear and I learned and enjoyed reading about the process. Thank you for such a wonderful book.

My question: The free-form breads rise well for the initial rising. When I shape them, they spread rather than rise and the finished bread tastes wonderful, has good crumb but is wider than it is tall.

What can I do to make the breads tall? It's too late for me to be tall but it would be wonderful if my breads are.

Thank you for any help you can offer. I'd like to know how to make my free form breads tall rather than wide?

ROSE REPLY
thank you harriet—i also can’t imagine ever buying a loaf of bread again except, perhaps, out of curiosity.

free form breads do have a tendency to spread sideways after the final shaping. the advantage to making them free form however is that they will have a more open crumb. if this is what you desire, you will need to have a soft, moist, dough which will tend to spread more than a stiffer dough.

to help counteract this problem, bakers use special floured bannetons or even colanders lined with floured towels which give the dough support during the final shaped rise. to keep the dough from spreading further in the oven, it is important to use a baking stone and well-preheated oven so that the dough has what is called “oven spring.” one final suggestion is to use the la cloche bread baker which restricts the spreading of the dough as it contains it but you’ll need to make a large enough loaf to fill the container. oh—you might also try using a higher protein flour. of course you’ll get a chewier crumb but it will also be stronger and spread less. for really tall breads try the stud muffin which bakes in a soufflé dish that supports the sides, or a bread baked in a loaf pan.

Hope this helps and delighted by your success.

From the kitchen of Rose on 12.20.05 at 3:10 PM in Bread Questions

Appropriate Mixer Speeds for Bread

Hi Rose,

I am an experienced home cook (actually a "foodie"), but not a baker, who is finally ready to tackle yeast breads. Over the years I have avoided yeast breads due to lack of time and patience. Truth be told, yeast dough intimidates me! I have purchased a new Kitchen Aid Artisan Stand Mixer (5 quart). I've also armed myself with your recent book, "The Bread Bible" and am ready to venture into the area of dough using starters or bigas.

However, I do have one initial concern and that has to do with the speed at which the dough is mixed. On page 50 in your book, you recommend using speed #4 on a Kitchen Aid for kneading dough (speed #2 if a stiff dough). The instruction manual which came with my KA mixer states in several places NOT to go beyond speed #2 when mixing yeast dough's.

So my question is: With your vast experience, is it possible to indeed mix yeast dough at speed #4 or should I follow the instruction manual and never exceed speed #2? Secondly, what qualifies a "stiff dough"? Kitchen Aid doesn't seem to qualify, i.e., the manual offers the caveat for mixing "yeast dough" in general not to exceed speed #2.

I've read your book through, now I look forward to using it as intended. I've also enjoyed your PBS series in its entirety, "Baking Magic with Rose Levy Beranbaum". You are, indeed, a wonderful instructor and a great source of inspiration. I hope to make beautiful baguettes with your help. Thanks for all you do.

Sincerely,
Penny

dear penny,
this is a very important question that several people have asked since the book first cake out. It is my understanding (and practice) that kitchen aid recommends no higher than speed #2 because if the dough is stiff it wil, over time,l wear out the motor. for many doughs, however, using speed #2 would require extremely long beating in order to develop the gluten adequately—maybe as long as 20 minutes, during which you should never walk away from the mixer as it could fall off the counter. I think it is necessary to trust one’s judgement here. a bagel, for example, is a dry, stiff dough, and if you used a high speed you would actually hear the motor straining. if ever you hear this sound you will recognize it and should immediately lower the speed.

I hope you enjoy your adventures in bread baking. as I’m working on a new cake book, I am enjoying baking cakes but sneak in an occasional bread just because I love making it so much.

best baking,
rose

From the kitchen of Rose on 12.19.05 at 5:56 PM in Bread Questions

Size of Bundt Pans

Sue Question:
I have a question. My recipe calls for a 12 cup bundt pan. I have not been able to locate one. In addition the size is not given in cups, they are given in inches, so I bought one that says 9-1/2 inches. How does 12 cups equate to 9-1/2 inches? Will my recipe turn out using this size pan?

Rose Reply:
for the future, the best way to know pan size is to use a liquid measure to pour water into it. if it’s a two-piece pan line it first with a plastic bag such as a garbage bag.

i can tell you that by june, nordicware will be reissuing the famous 12 cup bundt pan. your 9-1/2 inch pan is almost certainly 10 cup capacity.

a good rule of thumb is to fill it no more than two-thirds full. but i sometimes fill it as much as 1-1/2 inch from the top and then it domes above the center tube while baking.

you will have extra batter using the smaller pan so use it to bake cupcakes.

From the kitchen of Rose on 12.18.05 at 2:16 AM in Equipment

Product Line: Rose Levy Bakeware

I’m pleased to announce my association with Harold Import Company. Harold Import is distributing my new line called Rose Levy Bakeware™.

Rose Levy Bakeware™ represents my vision for the ideal bakeware that has been brewing in my imagination for years. I’m proud to offer these new design concepts for you to enjoy in your home.
Rose’s Perfect Pie Plate is the first product to be developed and I am very proud of it. It has my favorite pie crust recipe permanently decorated into the plate, and has a deeply scalloped border which effortlessly creates a beautiful crimped crust. Also available is Rose's Sweetheart Crème Brûlée Set. Both are packaged with my recipe booklets.

If you are a member of the trade, please contact Harold Import. If you are a consumer, look for Rose Levy Bakeware™ at fine kitchen and gourmet food stores near you. It is also available on line at CyberPantry.com, Fantes.com, and LaPrimaShops.com

I am also delighted to announce my association with Lékué Silicone pans and bakeware from Spain, also distributed by Harold Import Company.

Please click to download a PDF booklet about silicone bakeware. It's about 2.5 MB.

From the kitchen of Rose on 12.15.05 at 4:19 AM in New Products

Silicone Cake Pans

Allison Question:
Hello Rose,

I am a novice baker who's been turning out fabulous cakes thanks to your Cake Bible.

I have,however, had trouble locating magic strips for my cake pans, and was advised to try a silicon pan to achieve an even layer. What is your experience with silicon cake pans?

Thank you,

Rose Reply:
i am so entranced by silicone that i now represent (am spokesperson for) Lékué silicone of spain. the cake layer is not quite as high but it is more even and interestingly it has a more even, lighter, and i think much improved texture.

Read about my association with Lékué Silicone pans and bakeware from Spain.

From the kitchen of Rose on 12.10.05 at 11:13 AM in Equipment

This scratch baking blog, featuring baker and cookbook author Rose Levy Beranbaum, is an online journal of Rose’s baking adventures, cooking tips, and scratch recipes. Her cookbooks include Bread Bible, Pie and Pastry Bible, Rose’s Christmas Cookies, Passion for Chocolate and The Cake Bible.

Equipment