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Savory French “quick bread”-type cakes a la “Les Cakes de Sophie”
Posted: 25 October 2011 04:12 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 16 ]
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Thanks Gene!!!  Really great article!!!

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Posted: 25 October 2011 04:48 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 17 ]
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Wow, I haven?t heard that term in 30 years.

Last I heard it was in the 1955 movie “The Man in the Gray Flannel Suit.”

FG, are you SURE you’re not 90 ????  Heh heh heh.  We know you’re 90 x Wonderful!

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Posted: 25 October 2011 10:06 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 18 ]
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Anne in NC - 25 October 2011 06:13 PM

Thanks so much, FG!!!  If you happen to notice technique on any that don’t involve sugar, I’d love to hear it!!!  All this is so helpful.  These instructions are all in French, and, even though I can read them (and he is fluent), not everyone is as specific as everyone else!

I will definitely get that book again on Thursday and let you know. I hope it’s there. I’ve looked through Baking with Julia, The Way To Cook, Mastering The Art of French Cooking I and II, Patricia Well’s books and Michel Roux’s Pastry and his Desserts. so far, not savory loaves.

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Posted: 25 October 2011 10:09 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 19 ]
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Anne in NC - 25 October 2011 07:48 PM

FG, are you SURE you’re not 90 ????  Heh heh heh.  We know you’re 90 x Wonderful!

I might be and just don’t remember these things any more tongue wink

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Posted: 25 October 2011 11:01 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 20 ]
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I might be and just don?t remember these things any more

I’m right next to you on that bus, sister.  Thanks for checking all those books!!!!!!!  And thanks for scoping for the other one at the library when you go!

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Posted: 26 October 2011 12:08 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 21 ]
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You are more than welcome, Sis!

Look what I found!

Just mix flour, baking powder and salt. Whisk eggs with oil or melted butter and milk (or buttermilk, yogurt, cream, wine or any liquid). Fold together with the savory add-ins and bake.

From the NY Times. I hope this helps:

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/07/14/dining/14cake.html

ONLY the French could take a muffin recipe and turn it into an hors d?oeuvre.
Related

Savory Ham and Gruy?re Bread (July 14, 2010)
They call it cake (pronounced kek) but it?s a quick bread like zucchini bread and nothing like what you?d serve at a birthday party.

The term refers to anything made in a loaf pan, including sweet loaves (cakes sucr?s).

But it is with savory loaves (cakes sal?s) that the French have expressed their genius, reinterpreting what is basically a muffin mixture by losing the sugar and bumping up the richness and piquancy.

Americans have their own savory breads ? corn bread comes to mind ? but the French have vastly expanded the serving possibilities.

Cake sal? is like a homey and crumbly equivalent of the delicate cheese puffs goug?res: a salty, cheesy excuse to open a bottle of wine.

You won?t find them in a pastry shop or restaurant. Unless you spend time with a French family, you may never encounter them. They turn up at picnics, office parties, potlucks, fund-raisers and funerals.

When the pastry chef Fran?ois Payard leaves New York for Nice in the summer, he finds dozens of recipes for cakes sal?s in women?s magazines like Femme Actuelle and Madame Figaro.

?My mother saves all the magazines for me,? he said.

Although the French do not traditionally serve cake for breakfast, it would make a terrific brunch item or snack with midmorning coffee.

Mr. Payard thinks a beautiful tomato salad served with a slice of savory cake would be the perfect summer lunch.

And, as Jean-Luc Le D?, an owner of Le D??s Wines, a shop in the West Village, points out, cake is perfect with summery drinks. The savoriness really responds well to sparkling wine ? Champagne or something more modest. Or experiment with a dry cider.

Mr. Le D? also recommended still wines, ros?s and light whites, or slightly chilled reds like Beaujolais, cabernet franc and pinot noir.

Cake has the appeal of goug?res without their more intricate preparation.

Just mix flour, baking powder and salt. Whisk eggs with oil or melted butter and milk (or buttermilk, yogurt, cream, wine or any liquid). Fold together with the savory add-ins and bake.

Beyond that, there are only a few tips. Don?t overbeat the dough. Butter the pan well. And cut nuts, cheese, herbs, shrimp or whatever into pieces no larger than a quarter-inch, or the cake will be cratered.

Purists, like the pastry chef and chocolatier Jacques Torres, who dislike the acidic taste of baking powder leaven the batter with beaten egg whites.

The cake can be eaten warm or at room temperature, or wrapped for two or three days and then toasted and buttered. Slices reheat beautifully in the microwave. In fact, it?s called a g?teau de voyage because it travels well.

The classic savory cake was flavored with ham and maybe olives, but styles became more varied 10 years ago when the food personality Sophie Dudemaine published ?Les Cakes de Sophie,? which was released in the United States as ?Sophie?s Sweet and Savory Loaves? (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2002).

Ms. Dudemaine started out in 1998 as an itinerant vendor in the Paris suburbs who gave shoppers a taste of something different. She larded her cakes with ingredients like asparagus and chanterelles; goat cheese, toasted walnuts and raisins, and ratatouille and basil. In her book, she provided a basic recipe that was especially light, plus more than 80 variations. The book sold more than one million copies.

But even after she has published four sequels to the book, opened a cooking school and bed and breakfast, started a magazine and prepared the 10th anniversary edition of the original book, what is the cake recipe everyone begs for?

?Ham and olives,? Ms. Dudemaine said. ?It is undethronable.?

Yet cake continues to evolve. Cubes of it are treated like crostini and topped with thinly sliced sausage or speared with cherry tomatoes, then served like tapas.

Dorie Greenspan?s soon-to-be-published cookbook, ?Around My French Table? (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt), contains olive-and-pesto and herb-walnut variations. Robicelli?s Cupcakes in Brooklyn bakes a pear-and-olive-oil cake with blue-cheese frosting.

Cupcakes and muffins, first tasted in the United States, have made their way back to France. Now petit cakes and mini cakes are prepared in a muffin pan.

Maybe this year, to toast Bastille Day, Americans can toast some cake sal

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Posted: 26 October 2011 12:17 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 22 ]
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Jacques Torres is a dean of pastry arts at the French culinary Institute.

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Posted: 26 October 2011 10:58 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 23 ]
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Thanks, FG!  That’s a great article—it’s the same one Gene found, but it’s really good to have all the text pasted, becuase sometimes links disappear.  I love all the background!!

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Posted: 26 October 2011 11:19 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 24 ]
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Oh I didn’t see that.Good luck with your recipe. I hope you post pictures

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Posted: 27 October 2011 09:45 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 25 ]
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Oh I didn?t see that.

Great sleuths sleith alike, that’s what I say!!!

I don’t always read every post.  Sometimes, I’ve posted something and gone back and read other posts later, only to see that I posted almost the exact same thing as the post directly before mine.  I figured I must have sounded like a Swiss echo!!!

If I bake something, I will definitely post!!!

Thanks, FG!

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Posted: 27 October 2011 11:01 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 26 ]
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Yes, really. When you get those emails about a reply on a thread, I somehow go right to the reply and then go on from there. I bet there are a lot of posts I missed.

I’m sorry about that Gene red face

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Posted: 27 October 2011 12:11 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 27 ]
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I somehow go right to the reply and then go on from there.

Same here!  Sometimes I jump in late and don’t read all the early ones, either.

I really appreciate your adding the text of the article and the picture.  Someday, those links may be dead, so we have all the info!!!!

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Posted: 27 October 2011 12:28 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 28 ]
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hmm. that’s true. After a while, they do archive articles.  I’m glad I could help.

Do you still need the information from the book?

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Posted: 27 October 2011 12:52 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 29 ]
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Only if your curiosity takes you there! I think I’m safe to try one based on all the great info from you and others!!!!!

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Posted: 27 October 2011 01:03 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 30 ]
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OK then, as long as you are good to go !!

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