To me, the white genoise seems like a very odd cake. A couple weeks ago, I decided to try it out, because I wanted to use up all those egg whites in my freezer. I’ve always had much trouble with the classic genoise, because of the unstable whole egg foam. The Golden Genoise was a bit easier, because the egg yolk foam was more stable. I suspected that the White Genoise should be even easier, because stiffly beaten egg whites are quite stable and usually easy to work with. So I went through the recipe and baked the cakes. The only mistake I made was that I forgot to incorporate the buerre noisette until the very end. I got no flour lumps, and I did not notice any deflation of the batter even though I probably over folded. Instead of water, I used a mixture of Frangelico and coffee.
In the end, the cakes cake out at their maximum height—1.25 inches as listed in The Cake Bible. I assumed then that everything was ok. I cut into the cake, and I saw a spongy structure, lots of bubbles from the egg white foam. However, the cake wasn’t very light or spongy. It was dense, chalky, and dry. I could taste the chalkiness of the cornstarch. Is this how it’s supposed to taste? Any tips on this particular cake?
Also, another thing that has puzzled me….why not use cream of tartar to stabilize the egg whites? Wouldn’t this be better? Cream of tartar is usually called for in the chiffon cakes and almost any Rose recipe that uses egg white foams. I don’t understand why it’s not used in the white genoise.