Real Baking with Rose Levy Beranbaum

Posting from Elicia

Hi Rose, I just want to report my recent endeavour with the Perfect Pound
Cake and the Butter Cream Cake.

I've always gotten away with not weighing eggs with it comes to baking
cakes (I wld weigh them for buttercream, pastry cream, curd etc only).
Usually, I wld weigh all my eggs in their shells and store them according
to weight category, eg 60 - 65g, 66 - 70g etc. However, when I made the
above 2 cakes recently, for the first time - I experienced some pasty spots
in the crumb (not detectable by pricking - the tester comes out clean) - it
is baked and not hard but quite unsightly! I initially was a bit stubborn,
blaming the flour - but today - I decided to weigh my eggs and milk (I
usually just measure the liquid with tsp/tbsp or cup measure) - the pound
cake was just perfect!!

I now can conclude that weighing EVERYTHING is very important for cakes
with high content of butter or using a formula close to the classic 4
quart/pound cake! Also, I noticed that the batter didn't curdle slightly as
before (I was also very precise with the butter temp). Ironically, I've
never faced this problem with genoises, biscuits and the layer cakes
requiring less butter. Eg I've made the Golden Luxury Butter Cake about 6
times already (in different shapes and sizes) and it's perfect every time!
But I also believe the white choc has a role in stabilising the emulsion of
the batter, which I now believe is the cause of those pasty spots.

I will value my electronic scale even more now!

Rose Response
Now that eggs vary so very much and even with the proper size eggs the yolk ratio to white--it is essential to check the weight or volume for consistent and optimal results.

From the kitchen of Rose on 08.03.07 at 10:53 AM in Announcements
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To my view, the pastry world is divided between two different personality types: chocolate and vanilla, chocolate reflecting the heavy hitters and vanilla the more subtle and complex. I love both flavors but if I had to chose only one it would be simple: vanilla wins hands down, not only because I love its flavor but because it is one of those rare synergistic ingredients that enhances others. If chocolate is king, then vanilla is queen. And it is indeed the power behind the throne. Where, after all, would chocolate be without vanilla to round out its harsher, coarser characteristics. And in the domain of ice cream, vanilla reigns supreme as our number one flavor.

The term plain vanilla is an absurdity. There is nothing plain about magic. Perhaps the concept came about because vanilla sauces and creams are often used as a base for other more intense flavors; but there is nothing plain about it at all. In fact, when it stands on its own as vanilla ice cream or vanilla pound cake, it is the very essence of purity and haunting floral flavor notes that make one yearn for the impossible while feeling utterly fulfilled in the moment.

Continue reading ""Rose's Vanilla Bible" for Food Arts Magazine" »

From the kitchen of Rose on 08.13.06 at 9:57 AM in Publications
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Not without making changes to the recipe as it will throw off the water balance and make pie crusts and cookies too fragile without adjustment. These butters are ideal for puff pastry, Danish, clarifying butter, and, of course, for spreading on bread.

From the kitchen of Rose on 03.28.06 at 2:28 AM in FAQs
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Why do so many baking recipes call for unsalted butter and then salt is added anyway?

Because the amount of salt in salt butter far exceeds the amount you would add. Also, unsalted butter has a fresher, more delicious flavor.

From the kitchen of Rose on 03.27.06 at 2:28 AM in FAQs
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Whipped cream tends to water out slightly after beating so to keep this from happening I use a small amount cornstarch which does not affect the texture.

It will not hold up well at room temperature but in the refrigerator will stay well on the cake for 24 hours! Many people have reported that this recipes has saved their lives!

For 1 cup of heavy whipping cream, use 2 tablespoons of powdered sugar and 1 teaspoon of cornstarch (if your cream is very low in butterfat use 1 1/2 teaspoons), and 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract.
Refrigerate the mixing bowl and (preferably whisk) beater for at least 15 minutes.
In a small saucepan place the powdered sugar and cornstarch and gradually stir in 1/4 cup of the cream.

Bring to a boil, stirring constantly, and simmer for just a few seconds (until the liquid is thickened). Scrape into a small bowl and cool completely to room temperature. Stir in the vanilla.
Beat the remaining 3/4 cup cream just until traces of beater marks begin to show distinctly.

Add the cornstarch mixture in a steady stream, beating constantly. Beat just until stiff peaks form when the beater is raised.

From the kitchen of Rose on 03.26.06 at 2:28 AM in FAQs
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Generally cocoa (Dutch-processed) gives the best flavor impact in baking. In ganache (heavy cream and chocolate) or chocolate cream pie, where the chocolate is the main ingredient and does not get subjected to long heating, bittersweet chocolate is a good choice.

Brand of chocolate is entirely a matter of personal preference. What tastes good by itself will also taste good when mixed with other ingredients. You be the judge!

From the kitchen of Rose on 03.25.06 at 2:24 AM in FAQs
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Butter is the fat that melts closest to body temperature so there is no perception of greasiness on the palate. Not only does it offer its own lovely flavor, it also enhances the flavor of other ingredients.

From the kitchen of Rose on 03.24.06 at 2:24 AM in FAQs
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When a recipe calls for cake flour, it is best to use cake flour but be sure it does not contain leavening. You can substitute bleached all purpose flour: for 1 cup of cake flour use 3/4 cup bleached all purpose flour plus 2 tablespoons corn starch. For pie crust, pastry or bleached all purpose makes the most tender crusts. A national brand bread flour is usually best for bread but a strong (high protein) all purpose flour gives very similar results.

From the kitchen of Rose on 03.20.06 at 12:39 PM in FAQs
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Why do recipes for beaten egg whites always warn you to beat until stiff but not dry and is there a way to keep this from happening?

When egg whites are over beaten, they start to lose their moisture, airiness, and smoothness and break down when folded into other ingredients. The miracle solution here is surprisingly easy: use 1/8 teaspoon of cream of tartar for every egg white (1 teaspoon for 8 egg whites).

Add it to the whites soon after you begin to beat them, when they start to get frothy. Note: egg white will never beat to stiff peaks if there is it comes into contact with any grease, either from the bowl, beater or even a bit of broken egg yolk.

From the kitchen of Rose on 03.18.06 at 12:38 PM in FAQs
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For fragile cookies use low protein flour and high fat, For chewier cookies, use higher protein flour such as unbleached all purpose or bread flour with a little water added before the fat to develop gluten.

From the kitchen of Rose on 03.14.06 at 12:32 PM in FAQs
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Use all or part solid vegetable shortening, chill the shaped dough well before baking, use lower protein flour such as bleached all purpose flour, or use egg with an acidic ingredient such as brown sugar, sour cream or cake flour to set it faster.

From the kitchen of Rose on 03.13.06 at 12:32 PM in FAQs
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Baking is a delicate balance and substituting one ingredient for another will almost invariably throw it off and produce something different which may be better but more often than not is not! Things such as water and protein content make a significant difference to texture. If you would like to experiment, change only one ingredient at a time and see the results. It is a great learning experience.

From the kitchen of Rose on 03.11.06 at 12:32 PM in FAQs
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MARYN QUESTION

Feedback: I have been storing my sourdough starter in a crock. Now I read that a wire-bail jar is better. Does starter need a little air, or can it survive air free. I don't want to kill my starter! Thanks.

ROSE REPLY

you would kill your starter if you removed all the air by vacuum but there is enough air in the head space of the container to give it breath even when the container is covered. covering keeps it from drying out.

From the kitchen of Rose on 03.04.06 at 8:49 PM in Sourdough
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FRED QUESTION

Is refiner's syrup the same as cane syrup? In other words, is Steen's syrup the same as Lyle's Golden syrup? Thanks.

ROSE REPLY

Lyle's Golden syrup is a natural byproduct of cane sugar refining. It is cane syrup with no artificial colors flavors or preservatives.

I'm not familiar with Steen's syrup. Lyle's is the only refiners syrup I know of. Look on the label of the Steen's to see what it contains. A side-by-side tasting is the best test. as they say, the proof is in the syrup -- or was that pudding?!

From the kitchen of Rose on 03.01.06 at 5:27 PM in Ingredients
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Yeast that needs proofing (soaking in warm water), such as active dry or cake yeast, will die if the water is hotter than 120°F. (or if the water is ice cold). Instant yeast, also called Rapid Rise, QuickRise, Instant Active Dry, Perfect Rise, or Bread Machine Yeast, can be mixed right in with the flour without soaking it in water first. Store it in the freezer and it will stay alive for at least year.

From the kitchen of Rose on 03.01.06 at 12:18 PM in FAQs
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AMANDA QUESTION

I made my first chocolate buttercream icing for my son's 1st birthday. It was a disaster! The final product wasn't smooth or spreadable. It was clumpy. I practically lumped it on and patted it thin. Below were the called for ingredients:

3 sticks of softened, unsalted butter
3/4 c unsweetened cocoa powder
4 3/4 c sifted confectioners' sugar

I think the only mistake possible was I didn't sift the confectioners' sugar. Could that have been the problem?

Buttercream Help!
Amanda

ROSE REPLY

It's been years since I made confectioners sugar buttercream. I much prefer chocolate ganache which is even easier to make, especially if you use the food processor. I seem to remember that you need a bit of liquid for confectioners sugar buttercream. If you prefer making this kind of buttercream, and it's lumpy, try beating in a little milk, a teaspoon at a time until you reach the desired consistency. Sifting the confectioners sugar may not be necessary unless its lumpy, but sifting the cocoa is a good idea.

From the kitchen of Rose on 02.23.06 at 9:49 AM in Ingredients
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MARION QUESTION

In the Bread Bible you recommend some brands of flour which I can't find in Canada. We have Robin Hood, Monarch, Five Roses and then the generic store brands. I have gone to the brand websites but they do not post the protien count of their flour. Could you recommend some brands that we up here in Ontario Canada can use to make bread?

ROSE REPLY

Canadian unbleached all-purpose and Canadian bread flour perform well in my yeast bread recipes. For quick breads using butter, however, it is necessary to use bleached all purpose flour or the center of the bread will fall and have a gloppy texture on cooling. For more information or specific questions regarding Canadian flour/brands and baking, you can contact editors@betterbaking.com

From the kitchen of Rose on 02.23.06 at 9:33 AM in Ingredients
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JOSEPHINE QUESTION

Feedback: Hello, I may not know who is Rose but I am interest in baking! I have this big problem here. Whenever i bake muffins, the muffins would 'pop' up after awhile and would become not good-looking. Can you tell me what is the problem?

ROSE REPLY

I think that you what you're saying is that the muffin Tops Peak and crack rather than being gently rounded and smooth. The problem is the structure of the batter is too strong. Either you need to use a softer flour, such as bleached all-purpose if you're using all-purpose unbleached, or cake flour which a softer still. It also works to increase the baking powder. Another thing that you can try is not mixing as much. the batter should be mixed only until the flour disappears entirely.

From the kitchen of Rose on 02.23.06 at 9:20 AM in Cake Questions
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SUNSHINE COMMENT

Feedback: Hi Rose,
I wrote to you in December about my bottom crusts disolving. Thank-you so much, your advice has totally fixed my problem!

Also, I would like to recommend the pastry recipe in "the Better Homes and Garden's New Cookbook" if one cannot use butter. It is very,very fast, and gives a great result with margerine.

Thanks again,
Sunshine

From the kitchen of Rose on 02.22.06 at 10:38 PM in Pie
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QUESTION FROM EMILY

Feedback: I was wondering about an additive, such as granular lecithin, which you would add to cookies and scones to improve shelf life? Is there such a thing? Thanks, Emily Veale ( I have the Cake and Bread Bibles WONDERFUL!!)

ROSE REPLY

the king arthur catalogue sells granular lecithin that they claim is "shelf-stable" and the liquid lecithin is available in health food stores. it is a soy product that becomes rancid very quicly so i store any lecithin product in the refrigerater. you will have to experiment with amounts and it does indeed improve shelf-life but can also give an off flavor to the baked goods if used in excess.

From the kitchen of Rose on 02.11.06 at 10:47 AM in Ingredients
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HOPSTER QUESTION

Feedback: 2 questions:{1} What could I use in place of Rusk Crackers in a piecrust? as I can't find Holland Rusk. I have a recipe for a custard Rusk pie thats really good,, do they still make them? #2 what is a replacement for baking ammonia? I have a very old recipe for Drop cookies that calls for 3lbs flour 1/2 oz. baking soda, and 1/2 oz. baking ammonia,ect, also what would 1/2 oz. equal in teaspoons? Thank You

ROSE REPLY

can't help with the rusk crackers as i don't remember what they are. maybe someone else on the blog can.
for the baker's ammonia: i used it to make melting moment cookies and got it from sweet celebrations. not sure if there is a replacement for it but i believe it predated modern day baking powder. if they still carry it, 1/2 ounce would be about 2-1/2 teaspoons.

From the kitchen of Rose on 01.13.06 at 8:03 PM in Ingredients
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RUBYMARTHA QUESTION

I would like to bake a cake with fresh purees. Such as peaches, strawberries, etc. I cannot seen to find a recipe with puree, I did find a couple using cake mixes but I want a scratch cake. I absolutely am an avid reader/owner of your books. I attended SCSCA in Pasadena in patisserie but have learned more from your books that I am sorry I made the expense for the school. If you can help me I would so appreciate it.

Thank you,

ROSE REPLY

thank you--i'm very moved by your compliment. i must share another moving experience i had in pasadena when i was on tour for "the bread bible" 2-1/2 years ago. a woman named rose came to my book signing bringing her grown daughter as well. she reminded me that she had brought her daughter as a little girl to my signing for ""the cake bible. now she was returning to buy "the bread bible" for herself and another "cake bible" for her daughter to have now that she was living on her own. it was a very beautiful way for me to mark the passage of time!

now for the fruit purees. i'm sorry to disappoint you but i found even when adding fruit juices to cake it seemed to disturb the ph balance of the batter and give it an off texture. cake mixes have emulsfiers and other things that give it what is known in the industry as "tolerance." this means that all manner of additions can be made and the cake will still work. as you've probably seen in "the cake bible," i do add purees to buttercreams with great results. perhaps another person on this blog h